davidwort

if it goes when you press the clutch then it's obviously something that touches the main gearbox shaft (or linked to it) when in neutral (and clutch released), as that shaft will be spinning with the engine. It might be worth taking off the end cap on the box and having a look at the selector fork ends (vw call them shift segments) as these can break up on a box that's had a hard life/heavy handed shifting. It might also have a bent selector fork that's causing rubbing.

If they're both original I'd do the front one too while you have the coolant drained down, the one's I got from GSF seemed pretty good TBH and were only a few quid each including o-rings, you might find the front ones are only available with two sensor holes, so watch that, the corrado only has one sensor, I've a second unused sensor filling the other hole :)

these are life size BTW, pic taken from gantry above, look almost minature from this angle for some reason :) Only took these two pics today too :lol: [ATTACH=CONFIG]45935[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]45936[/ATTACH]

told ya :D well done, I know exactly what you went through, you initially see it and think £$%^&* it's the end :(, and then when it's back and running with just the pulley changed it's right the other way :cheers:

this looks very familiar, what do you reckon? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Seat-Arosa-1-0-Typ6H-heater-controls-/250654760662?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a5c301ed6 looks like fan speed is on leftmost dial though

audi, volvo, porsche, saab, they're used on lots of cars, they pop up second hand on e-bay and you can also get pattern parts with screw top rather than spade connectors, these can be bought from various car part suppliers, the main thing is to make sure you have the pressure ratings for the two connectors, i.e. 1.3 or 0.3 (ish) bar for the warning and 0-5 or 0-10 bar for the variable/gauge output, that way you'll be able to find a similar part if not the original VW one.

as long as the face of the end of the crank is flush (or you can make it flush) you shouldn't have any problem, just make sure you do it up bloody tight! It's a pain to do to the correct torque because it's hard to lock the engine in position, doing it up with the car in gear is not great. 180Nm for that crank bolt, that's the six sided type with oiled threads, you're not supposed to use thread-lock, the stretch type (12 point) is 90Nm then 180 degrees, think the 16v should have the six sided non-stretch one.

flat the burr on the crank off and fit a new pulley and bolt, it's the bolt that holds the pulley in place, not the key, I'm pretty sure you'll get away with it, seen it a few times and I had the same happen to me, new pulley and bolt and it never gave me any problems, if you use the stretch type bolt it must be new and should come lightly coated in oil which is needed to get the torque/stretch correct.

was only quoting what you posted from him

there's at least 3 types of gasket depending on the exact aerial fitted though :confused4: I'd be wary of just buying a gasket as it may be a poor fit (not quite the right design for the base) or not fit at all, which can happen on some of the early/late mast variations

paint looks very nice :thumbleft: I can see what's wrong with your rear brake from the skywards pointing handbrake lever :lol: when a cable breaks the balance clip between the two at the lever slips to one side and then jams rather than coming off completely, that effectively lengthens the remaining good cable and your lever will do that :)

I think we should all make offers of less than 500 quid, that looks like a bit of a nail, worn out leather and a trailer load of trim spares at best, doesn't look like anything's been changed under the bonnet since it was made, which at 160K is bad in my book. 'No major mechanical faults', what a sales pitch :lol:

ah, so sympathetic Jim :lol:

nope, easy job apart from taking all the centre tunnel trim out

it's an old car mate, get you down sometimes but when they are right they make up for it, chances are you've got a minor problem, nothing more, just got to track it down., you could have a a much newer car and get much more expensive and infuriating problems, believe me.

any water in the oil (mayo) or steam in the exhaust (white smoke)? any smell of coolant inside the car or crystallised coolant around the metal water pipe or hose/flange joins? did you accurately measure how much coolant went into the car after the rad and head change? - it could just be air-locks working their way out. or how about the expansion tank cap? any sign of coolant draining out from under the tank?

bit of duct tape to keep them in position, the abs cables run under the seat foam there anyway, should be fine.

careful about routing pre-amp/phono cables, if you run them close to, and in parallel with any other power cables you can pick up interference, if you mount an amp in the boot make sure the pre-amp cables run on the opposite side of the centre tunnel to the existing cables. Crossing other cables is OK, just not running next to.

I think the cheap leads and free version of VAG COM are OK for fault codes, but if you want full features for diagnostic work you'll need the pay version, not too much info that you need here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?4948-VAG-COM-scanning-amp-help in the engine section of the forum but if there's nothing there then Club GTI has a fair bit of info too.

What do the plugs look like? this is always a good indicator of engine health and correct fuelling. Get the lambda value checked by an MOT station, how old is the sensor and is it genuine VAG? Check the injector o-rings, inlet manifold gaskets, rubber inlet sections and all the vacuum tubes and connectors. The base timing may be correct, but does it advance correctly as you increase the revs? Might be worth getting the throttle sensor checked too if it has a throttle position sensor, can't remember on the 9A.

:) lbft, more of a pedant than I am :lol: pumbaa, If you've had a custom remap of the KE-jet for your head and cams, I'm sure you're going to be getting pretty much the best you can from your engine, the cams aren't so different to change the whole character of the engine and the ABF cams probably do mean you can get the best from your flowed head. The only 16v engines I've seen that push out more than about 170bhp are very high revving, very lumpy cammed ones and IMO that spoils the easy-going nature of the 16v at low revs, last thing I want is a car that has to idle at 1500 revs, is prone to stalling and has to be revved like crazy to get that extra 10-20bhp :) Would be really interesting to compare our cars, as apart from the cams and KE-jet they are very similar specs, I went for flowed and polished standard inlet and exhaust manifolds, I'd imagine the 4 branch changes the engine characteristics a little too, in theory it should rob a little torque at the bottom end but gain a bit at high revs. Has your rev limiter been upped too? 9A KE-jet is only about 6,500 isn't it?

The rise was going to be more like 4-5p which is now cancelled, as has the fuel tax escalator been for the next 4 years, the extra tax take from the recent rises has helped to make this possible. Cold-comfort though, when it's risen so much in the last 3-6 months anyway.

absolutely, 175bhp and 153lb/ft on Stealths rollers, that's nearly 140bhp at the wheels, and that's with 140K miles injectors on it that are not spraying perfectly! It makes a very smooth power delivery and pulls right to the red line strongly, admittedly with a slightly worked KR head. I've got a pair of ABF cams I'm going to do a direct swap/comparison with soon but I can't see they will do anything more than push the torque curve up the rev range a bit, which will lose some bottom end, maybe not much but possibly enough to slow the in-gear acceleration times a bit, possibly make even more of a difference on the original 2.0 16v cars as they have slightly longer gearing than the gearboxes from the 1.8's.

KR cams give a nice torque spread but also a nice strong midrange and top end, the more advanced EFI and extra capacity of the 2L ABF means you can get away with higher lift cams without sacrificing bottom end torque. There's not a massive difference, but KR cams would be my favourite in a 1.8.

looks like the original old black cast iron slave cylinder to me nice wiring to the reverse light switch and rad fan :)