davidwort

god, yeah, this has come up lots of times, trouble is VW changed the stud and tensionner on an engine number not engine code IIRC, so the smaller stud and nut is often mistaken for the mk2 golf 1.8 16v one. That's why the manuals are confused, they may well have been correct for the engine info at the time of writing.

check with your local GSF or ECP, the brembo disks I've had from them recently come with a painted anti-corrosion coating which holds up very well, but not every disc comes like this, some are old stock and have no coating, I swapped ABS rings from my old disks to new non-abs disks (disks are the same) as only the non-abs ones (just come without rings) on the shelf had the coating.

yes, a standard system has a slightly flexible joint there, the aftermarket all in one 'performance' manifolds the other guys are on about usually have one low down near the connection to the next exhaust section or CAT, but many don't at all.

I read this as you need a new standard downpipe, not a standard manifold or an aftermarket manifold an downpipe in one. Either way if you need a new standard item then the passat shares the same downpipe as the corrado (cars with a cat), the actual cast iron exhaust manifold is shared with the mk2 golf and non-cat passats, although they don't have the emissions 'sniffer' pipe sticking up at the back of the engine (don't think that's an issue though.) All in one aftermarket manifold and downpipes are another thing, they have their pros and cons over a standard system but as CazzaVR says, if they don't have a flexi joint in them they will always crack.

I measured the thickness of the old clutch friction surfaces on my old 8v clutch and the new one, think there was about 2mm of wear in total, it doesn't take much on each friction surface to make the clutch worn and much heavier to operate, look at the rivets holding the friction surfaces on, if the material is worn down to them it's shot. I'm assuming you are talking about the clutch and not the flywheel! flywheels rarely wear, you see some discolouration but there shouldn't be any scoring on there.

Not had one myself but a chap in my office had one for a while recently, bit of a problem with an engine sensor eventually sorted by a specialist but other than that it was a very nice lowish mileage car, very solid and generally a very nice motor. I'd imagine some of the parts are a pretty horrendous price to replace and maybe becoming obselete? Never going to win any economy runs but what are they 350 bhp? - Ah yes that was an RS2, S2 is still a nice car though.

just use a standard 8v/16v 02A 228mm clutch, Sachs/LUK is good, don't go for the very cheapest pattern ones they tend to judder, I've fitted sachs to both of my cars and they are perfect, last one on the 8v was a generic 8v/16v part number and after a few miles bedding in is spot on. ABF is no more torquey than a 9A engine so no need for uprated, you'll just make the pedal heavier :)

I'd say for wheel bolts, head bolts, suspension stuff etc a cheap one will give you enough accuracy, certainly never a problem with mine, no loose bolts, damaged threads etc. But for low range stuff like 10mm nuts (5-25Nm) try to buy one with a least a manufacturers calibration certificate.

get a gunsons EZ bleed bottle from halfords or screwfix, attaches to tyre valve to pressurise system and push new fluid through, so much easier than pumping pedals and I get a better result.

yep, couple of flavours 2E engine 1993/4 and ADY 1995 on, similar age Golfs and passats have the same engines, they're all basically the same 2L 8v engine with digifant injection and knock sensors and cat, a variant of the original mk2 GTI 1.8 digifant engine.

they're just noisy. I've had them in bits, a little fiddly, but do-able, I eventually discovered it was a dirty tempermental mirror switch and not one of the motors at all :)

I like that, a posh, technical way of saying 'turn it off and on again' :lol:

big vacuum leak somewhere, you sure all the pipes and hoses for thevac system and idle are all properly connected and no splits?

mmm, checked the speedo accuracy, 8v reads 62 when I'm doing 60 on the garmin, more accurate than the cable drive 16v speedo, and pretty much as good as any new car really, mpg-wise last few fill-ups it's done nearly 37 mpg average (it is an 8v :lol: ), which is all the more impressive given the cold weather though. Biggest problem on the older VW's isn't the cruising mpg it's the slow warm up and less than accurate metering of fuel in the first few minutes of driving, couple that with shortish town driving and most of them will struggle to get out of high 20's, roll on the milder weather!

beg to differ there :lol: it's the crappiest, most intolerant, slowest browser I've tried... apart from IE of course :lol: I've gotten to like chromium more recently, certainly bought new life to my old netbook.

easier to swap just the top half I guess but the step from 50 to 42mm is going to do something pretty odd to the induction :scratch: not exactly what VW intended :lol:

1988-91 passat haynes has basically the right wiring diagrams in it, clocks are virtually identical on the passat too.

not the dreaded fuel pump relay again :( why is it VR's seem to suffer so much from this, it's a part common to all C's??? I remember crazydave saying that the electrical tracks in the relays themselves corrode. Edit: p'raps I've got the wrong end of the stick here, electrics wouldn't all go on the fuel pump relay would they, perhaps it is the ignition switch then...

Finally did a good deal on a second hand Fluval Roma 125 tank, was a bit grubby but came up nice with a bit of work. The two 8" plecs are off to a new home at the local fish supplies place, far too big now for the tank, shame people don't read up before buying fish that will grow to a foot long I think it looks OK so far, want to keep it tasteful, kept the treasure chest etc for my sons 50L tank :)

well spotted the part number! apologies for that, will change it. if you've got the up-to-date prices stick them in the part price request thread if you haven't done already cheers :)

tell him to look and the diagram for the corrado column on his parts system! no trouble when I ordered mine from Milton Keynes TPS in post #2 I made at the start of this thread there's a screen shot of ETKA showing the column tube and part number, you could print that out and show him :)

don't worry, with a standard ratchet handle you won't bend a valve by hand, you should feel the resistance from the compression and then after a few degrees of turn it will release as the valves open and then tighten again a few degrees further on for the next cylinder with the valves closing. I'm always paranoid (I once moved a belt years ago and bent four valves on starting lol!) so turn the engine over at least twice by hand after doing the belt ever since! :)

sorry, not being funny but are you not just up against the compression of the engine, my valver has very good compression and is quite a bugger to turn over by hand, you don't need a 3ft strongarm but you do need to swing pretty well on a standard length ratchet.

those belts do run fairly tight, the later cars also had a plastic guard to stop water from the road splashing up and making the bels squeel, I'd try re-tensioning it, are you sure you got the bolts tightened in sequence, you need to leave the three 13mm ones that hold the pump body to the alloy cast bracket at the front of the block slightly loose, and the long pivot one that the flat bracket that hangs from the alternator bracket down to the front face of the pump, so that when you tension the 'T' adjuster it can swing the pump tighter, then nip them all up, a bit of threadlock is a good idea I reckon. Sorry, still can't find my pics with arrows on showing all the fittings ot 1.8 :(

Only one thing for it, buy one and then break it for parts :)