davidwort

holding down prices to pre VAT-increase levels then :lol:

:lol: mmm, 6 piston rings are more than a V6 4 motion engine, what would you do? :)

can't beat a wheelie bin...

unscrew them the P/N is on them! :) should be able to get cheap pattern copies from GSF/ECP

if you bend them far enough it does make the spring hold the arm to the screen with a bit more force, but it also looks shyte

the new bosch lambda I've just had looks like the old one (right in your pic) TBH the old design has done bloody well, car's on 143K and it's the original lambda, it was still passing the MOT emissions test as we ran that to check first, just the lambda value was wavering about a little, new one from ECP with a trade discount was only about 35 quid 8) this was on a 2L 8v but I doubt that makes much difference

yeah, I'd forgotten about that, not sure if it would be an issue having a non-sunroof car though? and I don't think it would throw enough light to see what's in the centre cubby hole, I guess you get a nice glow on the whole dash centre unit though from the passat downlights. I'd really like to have a stab at the door pulls and I've got an A6 illuminated heater vent too, keep meaning to see if I can graft the vent thumbwheel into the corrado vent as the illumination on that is neat, sort of: but illuminated

I got a tube (not spray can) of silicone grerase from maplins this item>>, I also picked up a VW tube of silicone grease from a show autojumble stand last year. This is what I used for the lubrication of the switches etc as it says it's suitable for plastic lubrication, I've not come up with anything exactly the same as the yellowish grease that factory switches seem to have on parts of them. So far the silicone stuff doesn't seem to have any side effects even though I've used it on the sliding circuit tracks and on the tube it says it's got good insulating properties, I guess you get metal to metal contact for the circuits still but you wouldn't want a conductive grease anyway, that could bridge connections :shrug:

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2011-01-2 ... -pace.html

really need to do a search chap, plenty of info on this, essentially the springs in the old arms are weak and the arms have a ridge at the base to stop arm without blades attached whacking and cracking the screen, that prevents some wiper blades from making full contact all the time, a search will give you more info and solutions

well a few more jobs have been done on the 8v to keep it going as it's my daily driver through the winter. I posted a separate thread about the indicator/wiper stalks and headlight switch, these have been taken apart, cleaned and a little silicone grease applied, all feel much better in operation now. Tracking was done at home with string and then checked at the garage on the laser alignment gauges, so at least it's not scrubbing the new tyres now and handles quite nicely. got a cheap e-bay 3rd rear brake light, for now it's stuck to the rear screen, but it's quite slim, unobtrusive and can't be seen below the trim when looking in the rear view mirror so it does for now, hopefully giving lorries a bit more visibility of me (you know how stealthy corrados seem to be to other drivers :mad2: ) I've got a list a mile long of things I keep noticing and are not urgent, sqeaky spoiler and the like. But tonight I got totally side-tracked looking for another small job and ended up wiring a red LED into the centre cubby hole. Bought a bunch of prewired 12V LEDs from ebay (this seller) 3mm and 5mm ones and little trim caps to fit them into flat surfaces neatly, excellent seller and good little items. One has been wired to the back of the ash tray light and is shining down into the cubby hole. The picture I took is rubbish but you get the idea, the LED also dims just right with the dash dimmer (which is nice) got the idea from my dad's A6 which has nice little red downlighters for the dash area. P1010818.JPG[/attachment:1a8xvtxx] Next job is to try the smaller 3mm ones in the inner door release lever surrounds, perhaps filing the LED to diffuse the light a bit more, I like the audi touch of being able to see the handles in a soft red glow at night. :)

no, that's not the way they work, if they're not earthing at all the buzzer and light will go off (by off I mean ON :) ), fail safe for a broken sensor.

yeah, one is a sort of grubby colour :) the centre 'light bulb' image on the switch seems white through the plastic but with the green illumination from the bulb behind, the 'ring' that lights up on the sidelights setting seems coloured by the plastic inset into the switch cover rather than the bulb, I think the green bulb does the inner bulb symbol and the other bulb the whole outer ring via the light-pipe clear plastic ring thing looking at it again.

can be replaced but you have to push out a roll pin I think TBH the hall senders aren't cheap and if the shaft/bearing on the dizzy is worn/suspect you might as well get a complete exchange dizzy

They're actually two small capless bulbs (could be replaced if blown if you are handy with a soldering iron) They simply have coloured caps/paint on the top of them, same idea as the ash tray green bulb

seen quite a few recon ones on e-bay fairly cheap though, worth a look

2 pressure switches, both need to function or you'll get buzzing/lights both on top of oil filter housing, if they break then they'll give no current to earth(block) and it will buzz, often they leak oil too ()or they could short to the block. One is often called the 'low-pressure' switch and the other 'high', but they are actually rated and wired to give a buzz for low oil pressure at idle and 2,500 revs ish, this gives a good indictaion of oil pump and bearing condition. The values are stamped on them, one is around 0.3 bar the other 1.3 bar depending on year and engine and yes they do seem to be fairly prone to failure.

:shock: I could re-carpet my lounge for that, is it mohair or something? :scratch:

They had them on offer a while back, there was a flyer sent to account holders, not sure how much they were but it was a really good price.

Thought I'd have a stab at this last night as my stalks were pretty grubby and not particularly smooth, the headlight switch was also sounding a bit rough and plasticy. I forgot to take any pics of the stalks apart but it's pretty straight-forward, just remove the 24mm steering wheel nut and the wheel and then the 3 long thin torx headed bolts that hold the stalks to the column. You''ll aslo need to remove the steering column shroud plastics to get at the connector blocks to the back of the stalks (3 screws underneath, slightly different places on fixed and adjustable columns). Have to say they needed a good clean, quite a bit of fluff and dirt in them and they feel so much better now with a bit of fresh silicone grease smeared on the moving parts. The headlight switch has also improved loads, the repair instructions in the knowledge base give a basic idea on how to take the switch apart, but I've taken a load more shots to show and explain all the bits and where to grease it - see: Photobucket I've found removing the switch blank next to the headlight switch first makes it much easier and is less likely to cause damage when removing the headlight switch as you can get pressure on the back of the switch to prise it out. Book1.pdfP1010808.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] remove the 'internals' by gently freeing each of the plastic barbs around the back of the switch stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfP1010779.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] the contacts slider block will fall out now as nothing but a bit of grease will be holding it to the internal circuit tracks ETKA Corrado.pdfP1010782.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] clean up the tracks with some very fine wet and dry if they are very corroded then prise out the switch front from the main case carefully, a small screwdriver pushing between the outer case pivot hole and the switch front leg on one side and it will pop free, you don't need much force at all stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfP1010784.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] I found the round clear 'light pipe'/prism thing that illuminates the front of the switch from the two bulbs was slightly melted by the green bulb, I think this is fairly common, probably due to the bulbs not having been fitted very straight. I also had to use a couple of tiny blobs of silicone sealant to keep the light-pipe ring in place as it seemed loose in the round recess in the switch front that it's supposed to sit in snugly. Corrado92.pdfP1010795.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] This pic shows the contact slider block in position and it's direction of movement when you rock the switch front: passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfP1010798.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] this is the little sprung pin that gives the positive 3 positions of the rocker, I put a bit of grease of the end of this as it was bone dry: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfP1010778.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] if you want to, the dimmer wheel and surround pops out and seems to benefit from a little bit of grease too: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1010775.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] P1010776.jpg[/attachment:2uv5smm7] the sliding switch contact, the sprung centre pin for the rocker switch, the legs of the switch front/rocker and the plastic to plastic moving surfaces of the dimmer wheel all got a little silicone grease. The switch now feels more solid, less cheap-plasticy in operation and feels like it's less likely to break now, definitely worth 20 mins fiddling.

so what voltage reading do you get, in my experience there's a lot of drop from the battery (engine running) voltage (approx 13.8V)

which car??? If you had to do that with the ignition switch then I think you've identified your problem.

yep, if we only wanted reliable cars we'd have all been driving Toyota Corrollas for the last 20 years instead :sleeping:

1.8 16v, 2.0 16v and 2.0 8v all use the same radiator.

I hope you've got a lot of spare time! It took me days to get my headlight loom right, I suppose if you are copying an existing loom it would be a bit easier, but you've got the special crimping tools (I've borrowed a VAG tool before, expensive to buy) and a wide range of connectors and blocks to get hold of, it could be a real headache, sort of project people only attempt on classic cars where repair or second hand isn't available. The only VAG wiring I've seen deteriorate badly in 15 years or so is the exposed single thin wires to temp sensors etc in the engine bay and cutting back a few cms and soldering new lengths in is usually enough. Sorry to respond negatively :( :) - just my first reaction