davidwort

good work there :salute: good strong engine the mk3 ABF, best head and block development VW made with the 16v engine, be interested to see the torque and power plots if you ever get it on a rolling road.

yep, that's the label on the core

sodium filled valves transfer heat away from the valve head better, used on performance/higher power engines like the 16v head and the G60.

Think he was referring to the plastic coated wrap around circuit track that clips onto and hugs the back of the clusters. Can't picture it but I don't think the corrado ones are quite as exposed. So is there 12v at the cluster connectors? Presumably that is fed from an ignition switched feed from the fuseboard. Didn't realise the alternator was triggered by the clocks, thought the small wire from the alternator just provided a feed to the clocks to show it's charging?

mechanical drive speedo on the polo, so I'd imagine thats the explanation for that, I'd also imagine the gearbox sender on your Corrado is fed power from the cluster, so you get no speedo readout. Didn't you change the cluster though? :scratch:

like I said, they'll work, but don't have the same surface area of cross tubes as a genuine VW one, a true VW one is more effecient than a 635mm GTI rad, I found temperatures fluctuated more with a cheap rad, once you are moving at speed and the airflow is good the cheaper ones are OK, it's when the weather is very warm or when you do a lot of stop start driving that the cheap ones are a little dicey. VW didn't change the 16v rad when they upped the capacity to 2L, so it's got plenty in reserve :)

Somehow I've missed this thread chap! Beautiful pictures, when the sky is clear like that, Scotland is hard to beat, nice to see some pictures of your (very nice) car too :D

it's under the pressure hose union, which is on the side of the pump nearest the block, on the top of it (the fill hose id the one with the jubilee clip and fits underneath) I think you can extract it fine without removing the pump.

the VW clips might be a pain but you know the hose is clamped evenly with the correct pressure and they won't damage the rubber either. I'd fit a genuine VW radiator none of the pattern ones I've seen are up to much, they'll do, but they're the sort of thing you fit to a run-around not a 16v engine you thrash.

you'd chew your tyres up well before you do any damage to anything else, new bearings must have been damaged on fitting or something I reckon

CV grease, my favourite :gag:

yeah, the 3 way jobby, from front head outlet to water pipe and heat exchanger 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfsamcos2.jpg[/attachment:1sczz6bq] kr-etka-hoses.jpg[/attachment:1sczz6bq]

You need to remove the rear hatch interior panel and unbolt the lock barrel/unit, it should then be possible to dismantle the lock barrel and remove the little brass tumblers that make up the shape of the key, if your current lock is broken you can reuse or match new tumblers to your ignition/existing key. Use the same process as descibed on a thread on the forum for re-tumbling a new door handle to match the rest of the car (forum search). It should be fairly easy to pick up a 2nd hand rear lock barrel as tailgates are one of the few parts that don't get smashed or broken very often and even if they rot through the lock parts etc should be OK to reuse.

check and double check every vacuum hose and joint as well as all the rubber and plastic sections and pipes that are part of or linked to the inlet system, worth squeezing the inlet hoses etc and spraying some brake or carb cleaner around them to see if it changes the idle/revs at all, if it does, the spray is getting sucked in through a leak somewhere.

Hold it up to the light and compare with the original one, I'd imagine what you'll see is the new one has round cross tubes about the thickness of you little finger, the true 16v one will have twice the number of flatter tubes giving a much bigger surface area for cooling. It should work OK though, just keep an eye on temps in the very hottest days in the summer, what you will probably have is a 1.3/1.6 carb mk2 golf radiator, same external size but lower heat exchange capacity.

I sympathise, I took out part of the alarm unit on my 8v (wasn't working anyway) but completely removing the associated immobiliser is going to be a nightmare, it's preventing the central locking working at all at the moment, but the problem is the fitter has removed about 6 inches of ALL of the wiring from the steering column and spliced the alarm units in there, going to take hours to rebuild properly.

have you tried euro-car-parts and German-SwedishFrench, I'm sure you can get pattern ones now, think they are about 30 quid from GSF

This is the best I could find from google: it sounds exactly like the one I've used, except it's manually spun up, pretty easy to use, it's the hydraulic bead breaker I hate!

it's just about possible to do those self taping bolts with a spanner without removing any of the front, IIRC it takes a little while and patience turning a little at a time but I've definitely done it without removing the bumper.

:lol: setting a good example Steve :) I guess the problem with most tyre fitters is the machine spins the wheel up and then just reads inner 10g, outer 25g and marks the position on the circumference they should go, peel and stick, job done, I've even had a go myself. when you start sticking weights in the middle you will probably have to re-spin to check the balance more times and those vital seconds are money...

Unfortunately not with the 288s and speedlines. Jeese, they must run close, I suppose another option would be two weights of the same size trimmed thinner instead of one, just how few mm clearance are we talking? Lathe the inside of the wheels? :lol:

I guess you mean clip on weights but on the inner rim of the wheel so they aren't seen, I'd imagine if the wheel needs weights on the outer rim to balance, then the stick on ones will still work but placed on the inside of the wheel (in this position they are clear of the caliper sweep anyway)

jet and tube just slides out

could be the pressure relief valve in the pump body remove the pressure hose from the pump and drain fluid unscrew pressure valve under that and extract valve and springs check for scoring inside drilling in pump body check for scoring on outside of valve clean little filter in valve reassemble and put new fluid in if there's obviously a problem with the valve I have a few spare that might be better I've revived an old pump by actually removing scores with wet and dry and doing several fluid changes :)

My guess is a wiring fault of some kind in the loom, you need either a good auto electrician to trace things or another car to swap bits over from to rule things out. A lot of basic tests can be made on individual components, resistance on sensors, physical movement of metering unit, injector flow, pressure, spray pattern, check lambda, fuelling, ignition side of things. physical and observational checks on wiring condition, electrical connectors. 9A engines don't have the best diagnosics and can be difficult to fix by modern methods of read code and replace items, they need more of a mechanical, systematic approach as they are so basic.