davidwort

last night I bent my rod slightly and that stopped all the rattling :) simply bend the rod very slightly towards the door skin where it touches the anti-rattle pad, the problem is, when the rod isn't under tension (i.e. door shut) the curved hook end in the back of the door pull handle rattles a bit, a very slight bend in the rod makes the rod always touch the pad (a bit tighter than normal) and so is never loose enough to rattle. All feel is as kev says, it's the striker pin on the B pillar, the rod makes no difference and needs to be a tiny bit slack when shut or the handle would lift slightly.

I did that somewhere, can't find it myself though :scratch:

nice one! Toolstation is practically my second home ,and the coffee is free :)

crushing to remove is the correct method and no they don't need glueing back on, put many on mine over the years, it gets red-lined regularly and they never go anywhere :)

Play nicely please :)

did my 8v one with the car on jack and axle stands, not too bad, had to cut old lambda wiring to get socket on (or you could buy a slotted lambda socket) and then there's not much room to swing the ratchet but it undid OK, been on there for 16 years too.

paper clips are the way forward

lambda is post cat and on top of the exhaust, worst place possible to get at :)

track rods, do the whole track rod not just the ends, they all wear the inner joint to the rack and that makes the steering wander when not loaded up in corners. front bush on the wishbones don't really wear, rears get all the punishment on hard acceleration. rear beam bushes a must as said above front top mounts on suspension wheel bearings usually make noise before giving play but bottom balljoints can wear too. the engine mountings and front crossmember mountings should be looked at although it's only usually the front engine mount that wears badly, just check the others to see if they feel excessively soggy or have obvious tears.

I think you're a bit confused, the plug to the headlight has 4 wires: earth sidelight (little bulb) +ve dip +ve main beam +ve the dip +ve just feeds the dip beam element in the twin filament H4 bulb (the main big reflector) the main beam feed goes to both the centre spot (inner reflector) and the high/main beam filament in the H4 bulb to relay one headlight you need 2 relays, one for dip one for main beam, I'd always do dip first as you improve the vision most by doing this. to have a reliable, fail safe setup you really need 4 relays, two for each side, each separately fused, that way if one fuse blows or one relay sticks you only lose one side on dip or main beam, I've heard of a few people with dip beam relayed lights go to dip from main beam only to lose all lighting!

the headlight only has a single main beam feed, the main beam element on the H4 and the spot bulb is fed internally in the light unit from the same wire :) only way you'd get no H4 on main beam is if the filament is toast or someone's wedged in single filament bulbs somehow. Just out of interest the mk4 golf (and probably later) keeps the dip beam bulb on when the spots come on, there's no second main beam filament which I thought was odd at first but it's obviously cheaper to make, but more expensive when you want to uprate the bulbs - typical

the hex tool with the little lugs for the strut slotted nut (holds the top bearings onto the susp leg) don't take much force, I've got a VW one my dad has used for nearly 30 years! but for occasional use a copy would be fine (this is the same tool that is used to remove the cover on the steering rack)

yes :) I mean no you're right, I mean yes you're right the switch from the dash is just a switching feed now, all the juice goes directly from battery though relay to bulb, and the main benefit of course is no voltage drop as there's hardly any connectors and switching contacts not to mention only new and shorter runs of wire.

I used to drive to the local garage, get them to undo the nuts and drive home with them losened :)

200W, pah! with 100/80W H4's and 100w spots I was running 400W main beam I've put those bright phillips jobs in the H4's now and the output is about the same as the old 100W main 80W dips just less heat, but the mains are on so little they've not done any reflector damage. I've relayed dip and main, left and right separately so the wiring can take the current with plenty to spare.

air hammer gun, that's all you need :)

yeah you're a bit far away from me really, a jewel bow front on a stand went for 112 quid near me last week, stupidly ummed and arr-ed too long and missed out, but then the other bidder could have gone over 150 I guess, they seem to go for 150-200 depending on location, condition etc, but then they are expensive new, I can't afford or justify that amount really but it's easy to get sucked in, just need to remind myself there are two Corrados that need some money spending on when the weather warms up and the golf is being MOT'd and new lambda (at least) this week, ho-hum.

not a bad choice, bit plasticy inside (what isn't that size) but I bet it'll do a gazillion miles to the gallon :)

:eek: you'll be able to swim with them :)

what tank did you get?, still pestering my wife so I can get a 125-180L of some kind, like the look of the roma 125's, but would love a bow front 180 fluval or juwel, I'm growing sea monkeys/brine shrimp at the moment, fish go mad for them and the aquatic shop at our nearest wyevale is pretty expensive seeing as several million eggs cost me £2 :)

depends on the design of link, mine could take an extra big washer or two to move the rubber bushes away from the 'eye' a few mm

to be fair the bearings will probably be OK, they're just not designed for running with a lot of camber, just expect them to need replacing now and then, but then they seem to need that on a lot of cars anyway :)

someone told me today the new ka and fiat 500 are the same underneath and both built in a polish factory??? not sure if it is true, but the only VW engine family to start life in a VW (and so the only true VW engine) is the VR6! beetle engines - porsche polo 900cc-1.4 started life in an audi the 1.5-2L 8v and then with 16v head, TDI etc started life as an audi 80 engine 5cyl from passat 1980's - audi again 1.8T - strictly 1.5 block based, audi again either way 3 cyl diesel - based on audi 4 pot again, probably A2 first anyway mk4 onwards 1.6 engines - audi again v6 tdi - audi perhaps the only other VW one is the V5/W8/W12 - which is strictly VR6 family anyway

you shouldn't need to correct the rear camber, usually something is bent, but if you are doing it to give enough negative camber to be really visible and for show, then it's best left to that, just show, and preferably trailored to the show and back, rear wheel bearings wont last 5 mins and I'd imagine the handling could go really odd too.

or it could be the wrong or poorly made drop links, I had to space the link washer on one to give plently of clearance too.