davidwort

check for animals living in it, mice in the airbox etc. :) other than that nothing special, oil, water up to right level, I assume it had reasonable antifreeze in it?

grubby contacts in the mirror switch, mine did that recently, try switching left to right buttons several times and pressing direction switch, didn't actually take mine apart it just seemed to recover after some wiggling

now I'm grumpy, smashed my old polo (6N) ignition lock apart and stripped my drivers door handle out only to discover that the tumblers are slightly bigger in the polo ones than the corrado, wider and longer my about 1mm (scratches head) so I guess I'll just have to be careful what I order from VW, dad has a few spares apparently and I'm geting him to badger TPS to see if they hold a handful I can pinch, otherwise I'll be back scrounging :) trouble is I didn't list what I needed before putting the handle back in, d'oh!

here's more pics:

this saturday I mostly serviced the spoiler mechanism on the 8v, plus a bit a a gearbox oil top up a squeak had started when the spoiler came to rest so I thought I'd strip out the drive cables and clean and re-grease the drive cables and their metal tubes were pretty grubby so with a bit of a wipe and a smear of grease and a general clean of everything including the main spoiler support seals and support arms it all works more smoothly now. A definite 'preventative maintenance' job edit: OK reverse order for the pics, getting the hand of the new forum :) more pics over the page -->

engine6_scirocco16vdotcom.jpg[/attachment:zvmkhngq]

Mazda 6? get a 136bhp t-diesel for about that sort of money, handle better than all those others and probably better screwed together

wiki, what wiki :(

I made the same assumption! take it all back, 2-300 quid for a full tailored quality carpet is pretty good :) considering the money people spend on engines, suspension and bodywork I reckon it's a good investment. You might want to consider boot carpets too, the 3 pieces, base and sides.

very kind offer Dave, If I can work out how to push out the lock pin in the polo ignition lock I have I'll have a few in there, then I'll have a go at my corrado handle this weekend and see what I need, perhaps we should do as kev says or keep a google/skydrive spreadsheet of which ones we all have spare :lol: there's only a few different one's aren't there? If enough people want re-tumbling done I might invest in a full new pack, TBH I haven't checked on exactly what you can get from the dealer reecently so I'll do that today or tomorrow too. I have 7 different keys for two Corrados at the moment :lol:

when you look at timing diagrams it all looks fine and clear, but for some reason on the engine it just doesn't look right, like the dots are too high, it doesn't help that you can't actually view them on the level as you can't get your head in the right position :) it's also hard to get the cams to face each other as the valve springs push the cams round slightly, perhaps it's just me though :lol:

I heard about that but I've never found a dealer thats had them in stock yet... cheers Alex, Kev, I'm sure you're right, I'll investigate further :) I've got one polo lock to take apart so I could do swaps :)

:lol: An 8v never produces more torque than a 16v. :lol: yep, they are basically on a par under 4000 revs, but don't forget 8v's don't have the same running problems as most 2L 16v's :lol: I've a fairly quick (relatively new engined) 16v and the old bog standard (16yr old engine) 8V is very nice to drive in comparison, don't forget the block is basically identical so it's only really top end (affected by head flow and cam profile) that is different. There isn't much between K-jet and Digifant, but the 2.0L 8v flavour of Digifant does seem to help economy and smoothness a little.

anyone got any lock tumblers (the little brass key fittings inside the barrels) or old vw locks lying around?, could do with re-tumbling a couple of locks and VW want something like 80 quid for a massive bag of them :roll: can't be arsed to file down the wrong sized ones I have :)

I thought a battery needed to be 'worked' isn't it better to trickle charge up, then partially discharge with a leadlight or something at least every week or two? I know there's been some discussion of battery maintainers on here before but I think they'll probably be as much as a new battery to buy

Excellent! Started to wonder how bad it was going to be when I read the first of your updated posts on the rebuild, but was quite relieved when I got to the last! I hate those marks on the 16v, it's just a stupid design, looks like they should point directly at each other at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock but they shouldn't :? I know the cam pulley has a mark on the inside that should be level with the head but those daft O's on the cam chain pulleys just don't seem logical. To top it all (IIRC) when you tighten down the cam caps everything moves round a bit anyway as the lobes press on the lifters :mad2: Glad you're getting there now anyway :D

Octavia estate or hatch, loads of room in them and easy to come by mk4 running gear. If you don't fancy the badge then there's plenty of passats about and they don't hold their value nearly as well as the equivalent age/engine audi. Once you get into smaller hatchbacks the prices rise as they're just more in demand, I've seen some stonking petrol passat saloons about and they've all got climate control, nobody wants them and yet you'd have to do a whacking great mileage each year to make up the difference in purchase price over the diesel ones.

:scratch: You pedant :lol: that one made me chuckle, you laugh, but on more than a few occasions I've changed spelling in other's posts that annoy me :lol: some are beyond salvation though (Mr Sunderland) :lol:

I don't think there are any detailed DIY guides on here for paint / rust repair but it's very much a getting stuck in and having a go thing. there's been a few threads touching on this, a few things I've tried include: warming the panel to get moisture out of the metal (as kev says) get all of the rust out if possible use a rust treatment too for good measure use an acid etch primer to bond to the bare metal build up thin layers of thinned down primer and then top coat paint with a small airbrush (£10 kit will do the job) you can get a much better finish and spray much more controlled with one of these and you can run them off a tyre for air pressure. fine wet and dry and some cutting with T-cut will bring up a very good finish to the top coat and help you blend it in (airbrush saves a lot of time and effort here)

:scratch:

For anyone thinking about a high level 3rd rear brake light, this one is suitably cheap and nasty but as a quick solution it actually fits and works really well for a fiver delivered I thought it was worth a go. I'll add a pic of it fitted soon, I intended to have a go at setting it into the tailgate trim but it's not really suitable for that, but stuck to the screen as it's intended to fit it looks fine, it's pretty slim and you can't see it in the rear view mirror at all as it doesn't drop below the rear headlining and trim level. It's only a cm deep, doesn't look bad at all fitted and for piece of mind on a daily driver especially commuting I think it was a pretty good investment. led-brake-light.jpg[/attachment:1163y81r] e-bay LED brake light

you made the right choice :)

IIRC the mirror comes off fine, nuts are captivein door, but the loom needs the interior panel removing to get at the connector block :bad-words:

floor mats - nice thought! but jump leads, that's a bit cheeky :lol: