davidwort

or you could drive there in the dark, fit the bonnet to your car and drive back :shrug:

yeah, you can remove all of the vent tubing and the sections that connect to the footwell vents, but although the whole unit should come to pieces (metal clips etc) the chance of taking it apart under the dash are pretty unlikely, let alone reassembling it. I did improve the movement on the 8v by spraying what I could get at with PTFE spray and this helps a lot, but it all needs a good stripdown and clean really. Definitely a job to do if you have to do the matrix.

following on from the chinese mk2 heater controls thread I thought I'd put up a few shots of the main unit that houses the control flaps and heater matrix and a bit of a description of how it works and what causes problems. This is the main unit viewed from below showing the cold and hot air flow routes. There are two flaps mounted vertically in the unit, the one with two cogs (as seen from below the unit) controls the path of air from the fan and directs the air through the matrix when heat is required. The other flap (with 3 cogs) shuts off the airflow to the dash face vents and airflow will then be directed to screen or feet. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfhot-cold-flow.jpg[/attachment:28ub2fpi] more detail of bowden cables fixing points, gears and flap positions: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfP1010773.jpg[/attachment:28ub2fpi] view from front showing movement of hot/cold flap and face vent flap, current positions direct cold air to face P1010751.jpg[/attachment:28ub2fpi] inside here gets very dirty as the Corrado has no filter element to prevent dirt, dust, bits of leaves etc. from entering the system. A good clean up and a liberal spray with dry PTFE spray frees everything up. whole unit as viewed when fitted in car, outlet to face vents facing, fan attaches below unit to extreme left screen/feet outlets to right hand side All of the images I took, some 35 from different angles, with some captions and desriptions are here: photobucket

here we go, many shots from all angles of main air distribution unit http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss20 ... on%20unit/ this unit is a Corrado one circa 1993/4 it has the feed duct from the fan attached, but the separate duct to the feet and the L/R/Centre face vent tubing is not attached I'll annotate/label some of the pics with arrows/text when I can, showing some of the points that cause too much friction when dirty thread for the air distribution unit description of operation and pics etc here

that's exactly what I thought :nono: :lol: anyway, I've a plethora of flap shots to upload now, be up in a bit...

what a hotch-potch of mk2/3/4 parts, reminds me of the VW south africa MK1 models. on the subject of the distribution unit, I have a corrado (albeit a mk2 golf part number, which they all are) unit which I'm eventually going to put in my 8v when I can be bothered, the 8v feet/screen flap lever arm broke and you can't really replace it. looking over the unit this weekend and groping under the dash of the 8v to reconnect and fix the main air flap, I realised why the 8v has passat controls in it, someone broke the old ones trying to force the air flaps. it's pretty clear from comparing the smoothness of the units in/out of the car and looking at all the moving parts, that a combination of dirt, wear on the foam sealing pieces etc is the cause of the dash controls getting stiff then breaking. I lubricated the cogs and pivot points with PTFE spray and it improved no end, and it really doesn't help that the corrado has no filter into the system like the big pollen filters on mk3's and 4's. I don't think, from my investigations, that the pivot areas for the flaps actually wear, it seems all down to dirt, lack of lubrication and the old foam dampers and seals, all which I think can be cleaned and fixed. Only problem is, it's a dash out job to do really, I did improve the 8v one enough to make it actually work again though. will take some pics of the unit out of the car and point out the areas.

they get pretty good at changing head gaskets though.

add that to your sig then! :) on the 1.8, the reservoir (rectangular type) also acts to cool the fluid and the fluid all circulates through this with the engine running, you'll find it may be near the minimum mark when the engine is off, but rises when running, that is fine. It's an idea to drain and replace the fluid if it hasn't been done for years, you can either buy a litre (or two half litres) from VW, or the generic LHM type green hydraulic fluid from GSF ECP or even halfords will be fine (ignore the header tank cap colours, all Corrados use the green fluid) Drain by removing the fill hose from the PAS pump (engine off) and refill as much as you can through the header tank, then just run the steering from lock to lock until the whining of bubbles in the rack subsides. I've never found the need to prime the pump when refilling but it won't harm to slacken the drive belt and turn by hand a few times just to make sure.

what car/engine?

what condition are your shocks and top mounts in?

you're a star, thank you. :D

easy to tell without measuring, the 50mm ones flare out when past the plug leads, the 42mm ones are just straight round tubes, you can fit the 50mm upper and lower inlet, it won't do any harm but it might shift the torque curve up a bit.

I got some G60 pads for my 16v by mistake once, just sanded the pads down on paint strippng sandpaper and checked I'd got them level before fitting, never thad any problems from doing that.

love the Clown, but a tank in a conservatory :cuckoo:

Corrado no, they all had same 42mm inlets, regardless of 1.8 or 2L, early 1.8's have a minor external casting difference but I've never seen a Corrado with a 50mm from the factory. If you get one off a golf then most will be 50mm as Kev says. there's not much difference in use, but I'd stick to a 42mm on a Corrado as they are a heavier car and benefit from the improved low end torque.

excellent! thank very much form the write up and protractor :D ...if only I could find something to open .pre files :?

could be knackered, could be a great little buy, only way to know is have a good look at it, the early focus diesels can have problems, personally I'd go for a petrol 1.6 unless you do mega miles each year

need to make something up, early cars seem to have some loom in place for the oil pressure but probably not on the VRs you can take illumination feeds from the cig lighter/ashtray but to get an accurate voltage reading you'll struggle. problem is the feed needs to be switched by the ignition but if you take a feed from an existing loom wire chances are the voltage will have dropped becasue of the old wiring and connectors, only way to do it accurately would be a new fused feed direct from the battery switched through a relay from a switched feed from the ignition, as it would only be a switching feed you could use anything, piggyback off anything that is ON when the ignition is ON.

we've got about 10 molly fry now, 6 or so caught and put in a breeder net and another 4 or five in the tank, but with plenty of live plants and cover in there it seems they have plenty of places to hide, one female guppy in particular has a taste for them but they seem to be getting big enough and wary enough to avoid them now :) It's fast becoming snail city too with eggs introduced from the live plants :lol:

pads might be moving slightly in reverse from the position they sit when braking forward. do you have any ridging, scoring or rust lip on the rear disks? Are the anti rattle, spring clips in place?

I think it's more likely the camber imbalance left/right front wheels, my garage floor isn't bang on level and my 8v has a very slight left drift too so I reckon we've got the same small error on both cars camber on the nearside. I'd forgotten how nicely a Corrado handles when properly set up, it's been a few months since the 16v was on the road and it's really nice to have everything set just right on the 8v, first time since I got in in the summer. Have you got any info on how you made up your plumb line camber gauge, I fancy making something like that up :)

sounds about right, but of course one rolling road to another will vary, and lots of other factors too. I've seen standard VR6's from about 140 to 160 or so peak wheel hp, what would probably be a better guide to engine health is comparing the full torque plot with other similar cars, preferably from the same rolling road. I'd ignore calculations like 15% drivetrain losses or coastdown losses measured on a rolling road they are pretty meaningless.

It is possible, but for the effort I'd probably take a hammer to the screen and then claim on the insurance instead :ignore: It's a common problem on the corrado, usually caused by screen fitters damaging the paint when they remove old screens and then the outer trim hides the growing corrosion

seen this: http://bbc.in/elcars twitter #electriccars PMSL, 4 days to get to scotland from London and he can't put the heater on or won't make it 60 miles to the next stop, 6 or seven hours charge after a 60 odd mile drive :sleeping: the mini looks pretty rubbish for anyone that want to choose where to go in their car :lol:

Platys, Guppies and Mollys for a beginner like me I reckon, all 3 varieties seem to be thriving in our new tank and come a wide variety of colours and fin shapes, they seem a little more entertaining than goldfish varieties too and they rarely grow over 2 or 3 inches long. They are pretty hardy and will cope with quite a range of tempertures and water conditions and you can usually get them free as they breed pretty prolifically :)