MoonlightVR

Yeah, many thanks Karl, you are a gentleman 8) One of the chaps was pretty desperate for a VR, and as mine wasn't ready for the road he bought another example. The other chap didn't get back to me when I asked him what he'd pay for it! The chap who's bought it contacted me months ago via a tip off on the Yahoo Corrado group. He wasn't in a hurry to buy one at the time, but contacted me again about 5 weeks ago when he decided he definitely wanted a Corrado again (he used to have a Storm).

Thanks for the kind words ladies & gents :D Dom, I'll never ever forget the hoons mate, you are one hell of a nutter behind the wheel :shock: :lol: How the hell you'll be able to let yours go after 11 years I don't know... KADVR6, OSV, Furk'z, Jay, Wendy - cheers guys! g-man - that was years and years ago! You've got a good memory mate, always good to chat top chaps like your good self :D Still I have my Mk1 GTI though - it's been in bits for 3 years - time to put it back together me thinks :lol:

I wasn't planning to sell the car until the spring, but the new owner heard I was selling and was keen to view it asap. I think it's fair to say exceptional examples always find buyers. I was happy with the price, and the new onwer has a damn fine car!! I was priviledged to own such a fine example!! Tom, aerial is there, just not in the usual place :wink: Wiper - simply unneccessary!

I'm in depression :( I've sold my beloved VR :shaking: Sold to the first chap who came to see it. End of an era for me. Thoroughly enjoyed every minute of owner her, and there is no doubt in my mind, the Corrado VR6 is a classic! Some final pics just for the record - back to factory specification. Compare with the pics on pages 1 and 9 - looks a bit different now hey! :shock:

Hi chaps :salute: I still have the car. As Dutch has mentioned it is now back to its original standard factory spec. Have sold on the various modified bits - most are on other Corrados in this forum! I'll post up pics of it as it stands at some point - it's now basically a fully factory spec'd (heated electric leather Recaros, headlamp wash, air con) VR6 with 77k miles on the clock. As all the modified parts have gone, all the standard stuff is brand new eg. brakes, suspension, tyres, refurbed Speedlines etc. The new Supersprint exhaust remains on the car. Goes without saying it's mint :thumb right: Watch this space for pics...

H&R coilovers use Bilstein dampers valved to H&R specifications to match the spring rates they chose for each individual car. H&R are one of the largest spring manufacturers in the world so they buy in their dampers.

They'll still corrode mate. Lacquer on bare ali like you get with a diamond turned finish is simply not as resilient as powder coat. Original BBS RS outer rims are finished like yours and I wouldn't use them in the winter if you want a perfect finish on your alloys.

The only sure way of protecting split rim or polished finished alloys in the winter is not to use them! No matter how much you protect or clean them the chnaces of them corroding is very high. Get yourself a second set of rims Furki, in normal powder coat silver for the winter.

Recaro Start mate. Not cheap, but a superb bit of kit (what else from Recaro?!) Covers your child from 9 months right up to 12 years old, so while intially you might find a cheaper seat, it probably won't cover the same age range so you'll have to buy another in a few years.

Welcome mate 8)

Gone to a good home 8) Look fantastic mate, fill out the wheels perfectly. No clearance issues with the RHs then? How do you find the braking now? Impressed with the improvements?

You're crazy Furki :D

Who did the remap? Was the original chip in the ECU remapped or is it a piggy back chip?

Get on to Vince at Stealth. It could be the valve on the top (or it's connection with the flap) of the VSR at fault.

It's not a big deal, as long as you know what you are doing! I've refurbed 3 sets of BBS RS's myself, but I got alot of advice from the pro's before attempting it for the first time. I've spoken to people in the past who have no idea what torque to do up the (old) bolts and have decided to seal the wheels with bathroom sealant :shock: All I'm saying is that given the wheels and tyres are the only thing keeping you on the road I'd rather have them sorted 100% This is why there is very strict type approval (TUV) of these wheels and their refurbing in Germany.

25 quid is damn cheap! I'd say you're looking at least 50 quid each daan sauf (assuming no paintwork is needed).

The problem is the rim needs to be split into it's component parts to be refurbed correctly. The issues this throws up is the wheel then needs to be perfectly sealed where the wheel "splits" when put back together otherwise the air will leak out - imagine if this starts to happen will you're doing 70 odd mph down the m/way :shock: . Split rim bolts are often one use items so a commerical refurbisher will want to source new bolts - can be a massive headache as the bolts are often not available on older style wheels. Finding alternatives can also be tricky. All this hassle means alot of companies don't refurb split rims or charge a lot of money to do them. I'd seek advice from the pro's - eg. the number I gave you above.

Assuming they are a genuine split rim very few companies will refurb them due to the liability if they get it wrong. I've refurbed BBS RS's myself - not too difficult, but you have to know what you're doing. Try contacting Diamond Styling, one of the oldest wheel refurbing companies in the business. Be warned though, they're not cheap! 020 8968 8737. I've always used Pristine in Woburn Sands for non-split rim refurbing but I'm pretty sure they don't do split rims.

Could also be the coilpack on it's way out (assuming it's a coilpack car). Commonly causes the symptoms you describe when engine is cold - no problem once warmed up though.

Jim, from what you posted before I think you said the car had been thru alot of car washes? If so I doubt the clay bar will will give you the results you're looking for. It'll certainly improve things, but if you want the paint as good as you can get it you'll have to get it mopped. Depends on how shiny you want your car to look I guess! A good bodyshop will probably take around 2 hours to mop your car, maybe more if it's really bad. So the basic cost will be based on the hourly labour rate of the workshop. As the others have said it's basically done by polishing the car with a rotating polishing head (of different materials, depending on finish) with a cutting compound like Farcela G3. This cuts the top surface of the lacquer away and so removes the layer with the scratches and swirls. The virgin surface you're left with is then perfect for applying a quality wax to seal and protect it. Done well the paint will look like glass. Stone chips are not really a problem - as long as the polisher knows what they are doing! As Majik says if you carefully touch up the chip with a paint stick, then seal with a clear lacquer paint stick, the polishing process will help remove the excess around the chip. Done well the car will look alot better. If you want to do this leave as much time as you can before taking the car for the polish - the touch up paint will need some time to harden off. There's an excellent bodyshop I can recommend down my way if you considering this. Or ask Vince @ Stealth about the place down the road from him - apparently he's very good too. Probably a bit closer for you too?

Fair point Daz, I've never used Swissol, what with me being a cheap skate :lol: I've been very happy with NXT, goes on easily and brings up a good shine, all on my dark car. Really should try this Swissol stuff I guess.

Daz, why is the NXT stuff not up to expectations mate? I take it the paint has been clay bar'd?

It's great stuff mate, lasts really well too. But be careful which interior cleaner you use to clean the surfaces with as some will remove it :shock: I use Armourall all purpose cleaner - no problems.

You contacted Snap on?

Love it mate, looks fantastic! What engine does it have? 1.8T?