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MoonlightVR

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Everything posted by MoonlightVR

  1. Yep, eg. G10: http://www.fareclausa.com/chart.htm
  2. Farcela G3 - quality rubbing compound: http://www.bodyshopwarehouse.co.uk/shop ... 290&shop=1 Best used with a commercial machine mop though.
  3. Mine made 40lb ft more at 3500rpm :D Those damn penny pinchers at VW - should have been standard kit on the Corrado VR6.
  4. It's worth using the search you know - this subject of the buying Storms, whether they are the most sort after models, or are over-rated VR6s etc have been discussed loads of times! :roll: Other than that welcome!
  5. coolrado has it spot on. NEVER use T-cut on a red car, it'll make it worse! Machine polish the car with G3 and then seal with a high quality wax (not polish) like Meguiars NXT or Swissol/Zymol preps. This will help it alot, but as others have said a respray will be the only long lasting option.
  6. :D Sorry to hear you didn't need it though :roll:
  7. Dutch, The green outlets Kev refers to are the ones to use (one of the two that is) for the vacuum hose. Strange how this hose doesn't connect to anything. Have you tried asking your local VW dealer?
  8. I agree. It's quieter than "normal" cone filters.
  9. Kev was referring to the cold air inlet pipe. It's said that long inlet pipes help torque but it's unlikely you'll be able to tell the difference behind the wheel. Induction kits are sold mainly for sound mate, so pick whichever sounds nicest to you! If bhp numbers are important then the BMC is probably your best bet, just don't expect to feel the difference!
  10. I had the K&N and then switched to the BMC recently. Both sound great IMO - K&N is louder and a bit rough and ready. BMC is smoother and more cultured sounding, but you pay for it (£160 retail).
  11. Sorry mate, I disagree. I've dueled with several R32s in my time - one was Guy Hartley's (pre-AmD treatment) and they can't get past a well driven C VR. My experiences are just as oxfordpaul has found.
  12. 2.9 was Corrado only, and Corrado production ended in 1995. The last cars registered were in 1996 - you sure it's a 1997??
  13. But what are the alternatives to same old, same old?? Doing something "new" is highly likely to feck up the Corrado IMO. It's a car which hardly needs any tweaking.....
  14. The 17" LM is in the Japanese market only. Am 99% sure they're 5 stud only though.
  15. Not Mike's then! Sorry mate no idea who's it is. Worth contacting CCGB??
  16. Chris M - suggest you check the earth connections. On a VR the speedo sender earth is on the back of the rocker cover, no idea were it is on other models. My car had exactly the symptoms you're getting and it was down to a poor earth. If it's not this I'd replace the speedo sender. If still no joy it'll be the dash clocks/printed circuit board - you'd be better off getting another set of clocks cos they are mega bucks new.
  17. I think Mike Edwards (on this forum) has a VR with CLC as the last 3 letters. Was it Moonlight Blue Pearl by any chance??
  18. Simple - they don't use genuine VW parts but GSF equivalents. If you want genuine it's best to supply them with a VW item at the time of the service.
  19. I know mate :) The best figure is always the first run, due to the massive heat build up you get on a RR. No cooling fan substitutes the normal airflow you get doing 100mph on a road so subsequent runs see a significant rise in intake temps = lower figures. Both bhp figures quoted above were done on CCGB RR days - so were benchmarked against other VRs on the day - this is what makes them credible in my book
  20. Not mistaken Matt, it did make 217bhp on a run recently but I found it so unbelievable that I chose to ignore it! I'm happy with circa 210bhp as a realistic figure for a bog standard VR :D
  21. 212bhp at Stealth, 210bhp at AmD so pretty consistent I'd say? ECU standard too - it's been checked.
  22. Baz, the BBS that start at 18s I think you're thinking of are LMs. Although you can get 17" LMs in Japan :roll: The 16" Mk3 Anniversary rim is the RXII made by BBS to VW spec. Pic of the non VW RXII (slightly different design round the wheel bolts, otherwise identical):
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