Geo

Mk4 1.8Ts did not have 312s from 97 on as far as I know. I'd say that car has 288s Jez.

Look like the right ones to me.

No need to buy a new one in my opinion when any scrapyard is full of fresh secondhand units.

I would imagine it's the smaller ones you want. The anniversary model Mk4 GTIs, Audi TTs and Octavia VRS models used a different caliper afaik as they had a bigger vented disc on the rear. Any caliper from an ordinary Mk4 should work fine. I've taken them off 1.4 petrol and TDI models and they were all the same.

I always assemble the spring/shock before putting it up into the car, if you can't press the spring down enough by hand then use spring compressors and put the whole thing together then lift it up into the car that way, seems to me to be a much easier way to do it.

When is the last time your brake fluid was changed? And how old are the pads? Incidentally, regarding the brake pad issue, on my Vento VR6 track car I did have EBC Yellowstuff pads, which are supposedly an endurance racing compound pad. 2 Days on track and they were reduced to crumbly grey stuff. Not very impressive at all. The 3/4 worn old oe road pads I put in to replace them lasted just as well if not better. I won't be buying EBC again that's for sure. They have been replaced now by Pagid Blue RS 4-2s, haven't been on track since to compare, but there are 2 days coming up in April so that should test them.

As far as I know the VR6 one is the same as the Mk3 GTI/VR6, and all the others are the same as the Mk2. I know the mounting brackets are different but I think the beam itself is the same. Not 100% sure but pretty sure. Will know in a while anyway as I have a corrado rear beam on the way and if it is the same it will be cleaned up and put in my Mk2.

I think the pump off a 1.9 Diesel Mk3 golf will fit, I'll know soon enough anyway as I think the one on my golf is on the way out and I have one off a diesel to try on it.

When I changed the fuel filter in my Mk2 8v it made a massive difference, the car felt like it had about 10bhp more straight away. The old filter was pretty bad though, I cut it open and it looked like this:

I think it's only the higher spec ones, the V6 80 saloons have them as well.

Agreed but you've already got an oil temp readout on the mfa so no need for 2 ;)

With a G60 then you could replace the oil temp gauge with a boost gauge, if I had a corrado that's what I'd be doing, it's the best solution in my opinion.

PMSL :lol: :lol: :lol: They can get very tight alright. My brother bought a Golf G60 a few weeks back and someone had tried to remove the filter and failed, but had damaged it in the process so it was leaking :roll:

You need an oil pressure tester gauge, either buy one yourself on ebay (pretty cheap) or get a garage to do it for you. Basically you unscrew the low pressure sender, screw in the gauge and read the pressure (should be 2 bar @ 2000rpm with the oil @ 80deg)

VR one is different. I wouldn't say it's too expensive off the dealer.

No, clockwise as you look from above as the filter points downward ;)

Anticlockwise to remove. It's a normal right hand thread.

Step 1. Buy Wynns Hydraulic Lifter Treatment and try that. Probably a good idea to do an oil change as well if it hasn't been done for a while. Which leads us to: Step 2. Try a different oil. Sometimes with an old 16v engine a 15W/40 grade oil is better than a 10W/40. Step 3. If the tappets are only noisy when the engine is hot then do an oil pressure test, sometimes the tappet noise is caused by not enough oil pressure getting to them rather than a problem with the tappets themselves. And then if that checks out ok: Step 4. Replace the tappets.

Hardly surprising since you wouldn't even pay £25 each for new 280mm brake discs ffs :lol:

You'll probably have to flush it twice to get rid of all the red. You just have to take off the pipes off the pump and drain it that way. Then fill up with green. If I were you I'd change it again after a week or so to be completely sure all the red is out of the system. Get the green FEBI fluid off GSF it's about 4 times the price in the stealers and looks to be the same bottle with a different label on it.

As long as you keep oil in it then yes it should be ok.

Ok no worries mate. I edited my post above cos after looking at the oil leak again it looks to be the rocker cover gasket, so you should be able to sort it out ok.

That earth should be attached to one of the bolts holding on the coil iirc, but if you earth it to any part of the body it should be ok. The oil leak looks like the rocker cover gasket is leaking, quick, cheap and easy to fix. The last picture is the connector for the lambda probe. Mine has fallen apart and is held on with connectors just like that as well. How about a spot of German translation as my prize? :D Having a bit of trouble dealing with a german ebayer at the moment ;)

I'm going to do the same to my golf when I find the time. I have all the bits there to do it just need to get stuck in. I will be taking my chances with a pair of secondhand calipers though, that's for sure!

That extra bolt is on some 1.8 16v subframes. It was on my mate's 1990 one when I took out the subframe to change the steering rack. Are you sure the subframe you got isn't from a golf? My mk2 subframe didn't have that extra bolt, I fitted a subframe from a rallye to it that had the extra bolt hole but just left the bolts out as the captive nut was missing from my car. It is only a small bolt anyway I'd say there would be no problems with it not being there as the 4 main subframe bolts will be more than up to the job of holding it as they are on the mk2.