Geo

Check and clean the connections on the crank sensor plug. If the sensor was totally gone the car wouldn't even start.

Check connection on the airflow meter.

I thought there was a discussion about the limiteds a good while back in which you were slagging them off kev ;)

That doesn't necessarily mean the rear wheel bearings need changing. They probably just need to be tightened up a bit. How easily can you move the washer behind the nut?

You shouldn't even have to pump the clutch pedal to bleed the system. If you just open the bleeder on the slave cylinder gravity will do the rest for you. And it sounds from your description as though you pumped the pedal up and down with the bleeder open. This is a bad plan as air gets drawn back into the system, which is probably why your pedal is softer than it was before you started. The correct procedure is to pump the pedal a few times then hold it down while someone else opens the bleeder and then closes it again before you release the pedal.

Yes it could. Sometimes the vibration comes and goes depending on the speed. Is the vibration coming primarily through the steering wheel or does the whole car seem to be vibrating? If the latter then daves16v could be right when he says that it might be the rear wheels need balancing. Would be a good idea to get all four checked and balanced anyway if it hasn't been done lately.

Split hose could be a symptom of something else causing pressure to build in the cooling system such as a stuck thermostat or even head gasket trouble rather than the cause of the problem by itself so you might not be out of the woods yet. Still the first step is to replace the hose and see what happens.

Different bore, different head studs and different size bolts for the bell housing. Externally the same so no problem fitting a complete rallye engine except you will need the bell housing bolts from the rallye.

If the tyres aren't directional then swap them around from right to left and see if that makes any difference. If they are directional try swapping front to back on the rh side. Sometimes the way the tyres wear causes the car to pull one way or the other and swapping them around cures the problem.

Andi the upgrade should be done within the next few days so if you could hold off till then please :D If you look at the info at the bottom of the page the newest member is invision, they will be doing the upgrade for us ;)

I always thought it was the 288s that had the banjo fitting and all the 280s were threaded.

I'm afraid super is unavailable over here. Was phased out during the summer so it's only 95 octane we can get now..... Like rmn I am based in Dublin but there's a guy, davebirl I think is his name on here who is over near leitrim. He has a 95 VR6. You should register on here since you are going to be in ireland for a while: http://cars.vage.ie/invision/ The software needs an upgrade at the moment so if you want to register send an email to mailto:[email protected] with the email address and username you want to use ;)

The laguna is a desperate car. The newer fords, ie focus and 01->mondeo are great cars, much better than the mk4 golf and passat for both reliability and handling. But I'd still go with the passat rather than drive a f*rd :D

I have a set of goodyear eagle venturas for wet track use on the vento and they are really good in the wet. Had a set on my old bmw as well and thought they were excellent in the wet. Last longer than F1s too.

He probably got a little over enthusiastic and rubbed through to the metal in some places. Will have to get that sorted before you post up any more pics eh gearoid :D

Sounds right to me. The Quantum Silver is 10w/40 afaik. I don't like castrol myself and I've heard a lot of people say the same.

If you open the boot and pull away the carpet panel at the filler cap side you should be able to open it manually.

1H1 and 1H2 are probably for left and right hand drive.

As far as I am aware the corrado box has shorter ratios than the golf/vento one. I have a corrado box in my vento track car as the diff let go in the original one. The boxes are the same externally apart from a slight difference in the arrangement at the top of the selector mechanism where the counterweight bolts on.

I have bead blasted split rim bolts before to clean them off and it did a brilliant job. But they weren't getting chromed so I don't know if it would be a suitable surface for chroming, you might need something a little rougher to give the chrome a bit of a key to stick to the metal. As henny says, the chroming guy should know what's best, and I'd be worried if he didn't!

Something that just occurred to me, what have you done to the engine that you need to reset the timing? Because that guide tells you how to set it with the flywheel and bottom timing cover removed. If you have just had the head off with the engine in the car it will be different, there's probably a mark on the flywheel or something.....

http://media.corrado-club.ca/tech/timingchain.pdf Go to page 18.

Brakes look good, good to hear they are working well too. This brings us on to the next issue, what are you doing with your old 280mm calipers and caliper carriers? Pm me with a price if you still have them ;)

Not worth the hassle if you are running standard suspension IMO. I just got ordinary ones off GSF.

I couldn't get them to fit my car. I think you need the VR6 top plates as well.