Geo

I might be able to get some diagrams for you. What are you looking for? ECU stuff?

I just had a look at the 89 passat I bought for parts last week and it appears to have the same connectors as the corrado on the headlights. Could be another option for getting complete plugs as they would be more plentiful in scrapyards than corrados.

Just go into a scrapyard and get a pair of calipers off a scrapped Mk4! £330 is crazy money! Buy calipers in a scrapyard for £60 or so for a pair, £25 for the braided lines off C&R and then discs and pads from GSF. I thought you had to use Mk2 pads as the Mk4 pads have too much meat on them because the Mk4 disc is thinner than the Mk2 one. You also have to use your own carrier, not the Mk4 one.

Cool! I got the plugs a while back but couldn't source the correct onnectors to fit in the plug anywhere. Didn't realise they were available from the dealer. Those part numbers will come in very useful, thanks Kev!

I saw that in CAR magazine this month alright. What a joke :roll: A mate of mine is getting his steering rack replaced on his 6 month old GTI to see if it stops the creaking.

No a deal has been done, with the co-owner for him to buy me out and put it on the road. But it will be doing 2 trackdays in April before its retirement. @Andy, tell me about it! My weekends are crazy at the moment, have to get the G60 built, painted and run in before June as I hope to bring it to GTI International :roll:

I've yet to finalise what car I'm bringing. It's looking like my 1990 Jetta TD though. It needs a clutch, rear brake shoes and handbrake cables, a timing belt and a radiator. Before I get to that I have to rebuild a Golf G60, then respray it. Then do the same to a Mk1 golf. I also have a few bits to do to my Mk2 8v, and I have to put new brakes on my Vento track car and get it set up properly in time for April 9th. How I'm going to fit it all in I've no idea.....

I don't think anything can cause them to break. I'd take it back and swap it for another one and see what happens. I don't have much faith in the switches and senders GSF sell though.

It's on the top of the bell housing afaik, near where it bolts to the engine.

They sound like a crowd of wankers to me if they won't do that job for you. I wouldn't take my car near them again if I were you.

Don't go fitting a new pump until you know that's the problem, just get an oil pressure tester on it and see if the valve is kicking in when it should.

Good luck then :lol:

That happened my car (8v Mk2 golf) last August and it took me until christmas to figure it out. Like you I changed every electronic component on the car to no avail. I eventually traced the problem to the pressure release valve in the oil pump being stuck shut. When starting the car from cold the pressure went so high that it pumped the tappets wide open so the valves couldn't close and the car lost compression and died. Like your car if I left it running until it warmed up it would be fine for the rest of the day as the pressure would have dropped as the engine warmed up. So get an oil pressure test done and see, you never know it could be your problem. You should see the valve kick in on the gauge at around 90psi. Mine was going to over 200 at which point the engine was dying. New oil pump and it has been perfect since.

I seriously doubt if it's your distributor/hall sender. If they die the car dies and won't run at all. The fact that your rev counter dropped suggests either a complete loss of power or a loss of power to the ecu. Does it start and run ok when hot? ie does this just happen when the engine is cold?

The spring clip should be fine to re-use.

13 is the housing yes. It is quite an awkward job as the pas pump bracket needs to be removed to get access to the thermostat housing.

That is correct, the one I got from Darren was a geniune VW one.

No worries. I was wondering what that was about alright, thought cai might be some abbreviation I hadn't come across or something :D

Yeah think that's what I'll do. Thanks for the diagram anyway ;)

Thanks Gavin, looks like the bloody thing comes in different pieces, I suppose a piece of suitable hose should be ok on the existing ends?

I already have the braided steel feed line, got it from Darren when he rebuilt the charger, it's just the return line I'm after now. The old one looks ok but the engine is in bits at the moment and it will be a hell of a lot easier to fit a new one now and have no worries rather than have to replace it a couple of months down the line. It looks like a right pig of a job with everything in situ.

As the title says. Has anyone got the part number for the charger oil return line? Just to save my sanity when I go to the stealer to order one :wink:

They don't have to remove the cams to change the gasket but they will have to remove them to skim the head.

I see, thanks for clearing that up then ;)

I'm interested in this topic as well as I am rebuilding a G60 engine at the moment and I have the cam that came in the engine (which is a 276 piper cam I think) and I have a standard cam also. Other mods on the engine are stage 4 charger with chip and 68mm pulley, ported and polished head and manifolds and supersprint exhaust. Once the engine is run in I may also be fitting red top injectors. So which would be better do people think? I'm thinking standard cam as I like the low down pull of a standard G60.