Riley

Looking good, love the colour 8) Happy with the Lamin-X Eddy? :salute: Neil.

First car i would buy (if the guy would sell it) would be... And i don't care what anyone else thinks :wave: :lol:

Mine used to run 8j all round on 25mm adaptors, the tyres were 195/45's. No problems with catching at all. Loads of pics for ya as im actually just going through them and considering some design 90's again! :lol: Should never have sold them tbh. :( Im sure the lad i sold them to is on here actually...[Goes off hunting] Neil.

Aye, recirculated obviously... But not to add pressure into an already pressurised inlet system that can only meter so much(15psi) via the map sensor! Hence where it originally routes being at the entry side of the charger which isn't under pressure, not after the scroll where pressure is manufactured>measured via the map sensor. Im just trying to pass on my knowledge here mate, it's not cool if a piston becomes overly friendly with the block after not having had enough fuel to match the boost. There really is nothing to lubricate mate...Think about where you are spraying the lube...At the very most its going to congeal at the edges of the scrolls movement (which shouldn't be lubricated) and just sit there doing nothing, if anything getting in the way of any porting you have had done. But im sure there are plenty of companys out there that will sell you the lube. Neil.

The isv directly into the pressurised inlet isn't part of the original set up mate :pale: It's missing running past the c/o pot for starters if you direct it into the inlet where yours is. I have done away the isv as a test only, and instead of my usual 15psi, i made nearly 17 psi, but you need to be sure the fueling is correct. On top of that, the map sensor would first need tweaking to read over 15psi anyway. So when you hear of people boasting about running x psi over 15psi, they should at least have a 1.2bar rallye map sensor fitted in the ecu, or the boost will just be continously bleeding off/recirculating rather than being eaten up which is totally pointless... As for the charger lube, What i mean is that the standard set up stops unburnt fumes venting to atmosphere...It's not there to lube the charger imo. I had to strip down my full blend charger after trying lube and physically scoop out the lube from the ported area's. I haven't lubed it for around 3 years now. Neil.

Running the isv back into the inlet isn't the best idea if the car isn't mapped/chipped for it. Especially as the map sensor only reads up to 1bar. You need to be running a wideband afr set up ideally to be sure you aren't running lean. Edit: I personally don't believe in lubing the charger. Especially if the charger is ported as the lube just builds up inside and makes the porting redundant. :| I can't believe that vw meant for the engine to breathe heavy to lubricate the charger scroll seals, they are self lubricating. Id say its more to do with not expelling fumes into the atmosphere... Neil.

Boost return removal - clicky :) Should end up with...

Ahhh, the myth of carb settings... If they are in good order, they should only need setting up once! Unless someone is turning screws when they shouldn't be. Obviously with age/wear and tear they will want a tweaking, but that's after thousands of miles of use. My old mk1 valver made 174 brake at the flywheel, and returned 200 miles to twenty quids worth of fuel (around 8 years ago) It was set up on the rolling road just the once, and it ran perfectly until the day the engine was removed. Neil.

Blue 'L' registered vr6 on toys r us car park in preston at 2.30pm today. Neil.

Mine's in the cubby hole, although ill be rejigging them soon as i've got boost temp gauge to fit somewhere...

This...May help. Neil.

Cambelt possibly slipped a tooth? Neil.

Seen a few over the past week or so... Blue late model with what looked like 9x16's all round, at padiham rd in Burnley. Im no longer the pHaTtEst CoRrAdo in town :( :lol: A red early valver near the vw dealers. Another red one, late model in Burnley center. Neil.

Spot on, thanks mate. Neil.

Is this a Corrado one? Pretty sure it is, but need to be certain...

Anyone know the part number for the early Corrado? I have some to check, if someone could do so please. 536 864 121 535 864 120 536 864 123 Thanks. Neil.

Watch out for the Corvette that i sponsor :D Latest news was that its pushing 648 brake horse and 658lbsft, although i think it was 'tweaked' today on the rolling road which brought the power down but pushed torque up... The race has actually already been run, but ive purposefully 'missed' seeing any results so i can watch it on tv. By the way, today/tommorow is the 4th round in the GT Cup at Oulton for anyone wanting to go watch them in the metal. That should be shown on Tv soon too... Neil.

Hi mate, As per pm i can't unplug my lambda without removing it from the exhaust and doing a recalibration, as its a wideband that feeds the original ecu along with the gauge... First port of call would be the usual earth checks...The ones on the side of the head water flange (or rocker cover on earlier motors) are important as its where a few meet for the c/o pot, throttle switches etc. Obviously check the main box one, and around the battery tray. If they are all clean and looking good then id do a cheque for resistance across the lambda signal. If you pull the rubber boot off the ecu plug (best remove it first for a good look at the pin numbers) then you should see a purple at pin number 2. Thats the lambda signal wire. If you stick your test meter on ohms and put one point in beside this wire (with loom plugged in) and your other point to the battery earth. Just see what sort of resistance you get with ignition on/off and also at full running temp while holding the throttle open slightly. If you want to check individual eaths back to the ecu, then pin 6 is the earth for the lambda (sort of), c/o pot, throttle switches, hall sender. Just have your test probe in pin 6 while using the other probe at each sender/sensor earth. Neil.

This is the sort of thing id be looking at. http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1080971.htm Not a modern car but with 50/50 weight distribution a 'decent' amount of power/torque, and rwd they are a propper well built drivers car. Neil.

Great minds and all that b0llocks Chris :lol:

Do you have a local powerflow or similar exhaust place? They would supply and fit a piece for little money id imagine, just be sure they are using 301 grade stainless though as they didn't used to. Neil.

Mine up until recently... Looks a bit more messy now... :shrug: (horrible expansion tank has gone btw) Neil.

Cheers mate 8) Ive still got more yet, just don't have the room for them :lol: Gonna have to decide on which ones to use!

If the wheels are the same width as standard, they will stick out 35mm over standard. Try this wheel offset calculator to see what widths/offsets will give what results: Clicky 8) Neil.

Hi mate, it was an easy enough job. :) When you disconnect the pipe at each end, tie a piece of wire/string around it at the fuel filter end and attatch the other end of wire/string to the new pipe. Then while pulling it through from the engine bay...guide the new pipe through the chassis. If i remember rightly its just a jubilee type clip at each end. Neil.