Riley

Thing is, I really have checked all sensors/wiring resistances/voltages/earths etc through the whole engine bay loom. And everything seems fine. Plus, it will only ever happen once warm. While cold, it revs up like a good un, nice and cleanly. Tis the most weirdest/longest running problem i've ever had the displeasure of knowing about! Im building a new engine anyway :lol: So when i get around to it, ill build a new loom too probably. So if anyone has an audi 3A bubble block, let me know...Already got a head to play with. 8) Neil.

Burgundy valver, burnley, lancs today.

Looking good mate. 8)

Hi mate, Yep. If you speak with any of the suppliers, they can supply you with a shorter belt to use with no charger. You will need to make up a little piping to the airbox too. Neil.

Aye, plenty of chargers out there will be producing above 15psi, but not many will be using the extra boost. And ideally you want lower boost figures through better flow anyway. That's where the power is, not necasarilly in more boost. When i build my new engine, i want it going normally aspirated! and then i can look at feeding it more boost by using something like the above. Pointless while you have high boost figures/poor flow imo. The g60 heads/inlet manifold/exhaust manifold are massively restrictive. :gag: Neil.

That's correct mate, rerouting the isv directly back into the inlet isn't the best idea. It's absolutely pointless achieving over 1bar as the map sensor won't read it. Neil.

Cheers lads, was just looking for confirmation as the head turned up with gti plugs in it. Neil.

Yip :D

As title, can anyone correctly tell me what this is from? Cheers, Neil. :)

Pretty much mate, the most important things there are the earths at the battery to gearbox and the side of the head/water outlet. Neil.

Hi mate, First check would be earths, there is one running to the right side of the engine block from the back of the battery. Check that they are actually refitted, and maybe remove/clean and refit them. Also there will be some smaller brown coloured ones running to either: The right side of the cylinder head or the water outlet on the side of the head. Has the garage not had anything to say about it? Neil.

Hi mate, Have you run it without the cap on while squeezing top/bottom hoses with both hands? They can be a bugger for air locks. Otherwise it does souns like possible thermostat. Neil.

Ahh, im not actually familiar with the rado's 2.0 8v lump... It will possibly have: Some senders on the right hand side of the cylinder head with spade terminals. If so, snip them off and replace with new spade terminals to be sure they have a good connection. Or it may have a black temp sender in the top radiator hose, check the condition of the wiring to this sender (two wires) and possibly replace the sender. The above is just guess work going off other models really. Neil.

What sort of Corrado is it? Neil.

Aye, good for those who are a little more seriously into it than me i suppose...probably along with an EGT gauge/sensor too. But what i have is the outside temp sender sat in the air box (shows on dash) so i wanted to see the temp in the intercooler to see the effect really, basically the diffarence in temps from air box to intercooler. I've got the gauge/sender, just need a new intercooler/bumper set up :roll: Neil.

Aye it can be :) Neil.

Could be carbon build up on the pistons. Neil.

Nah, removed the cat years ago Stu :salute: The car ran fine for a good while after it was removed too. Tbh im not even that bothered about this problem now (used to cause me sleepless nights!) so i just put up with it, but it is still niggling me as it just happens now and then. Neil.

Yep, i've currently got it averaging at 1:12 on the gauge, I had it set at instant before that which is a little harder to follow and get an average reading from. Currently running an sns chip written for red tops etc. I think the next thing i need to try is a full new exhaust system, it does need one as the original is blowing slightly in a few places. Just unsure how to go about it as i have a gwerks 4 branch that also needs fitting, and it looks like a bit of a b/\stard to fit. Im not confident that the exhaust would cause the problem though as a mate had a badly blowing manifold at the head, and there was no problem at all. Also ive run without the lambda and the issue is still there. I wonder if there is a weak valve spring(s)... :scratch: but it's very intermittent.

I wouldn't disagree with that rolex :lol: It's an Innovate lc-1 wideband lambda and DB gauge. Just a reminder of the problem...I can be setting off from a roundabout, and as i press the throttle i just get a 'fluff' or 'fart' noise and the revs don't rise. It also does it when i double de clutch, or just rev the car when it's sat still. It only happens now and again and is really, really annoying. I have litterally replaced every single accessory under the bonnet apart from the actual wiring loom and engine block (head been off and valves reseated etc etc) The cam timing is perfect, the ignition timing is bang on 6deg btdc, the crank keyway is mint.

I get what is possibly the same thing now and again... It sounds like a brake drum binding, a hollow type of noise...Only does it in reverse. Everything back there is newish so unsure what's causing it. Neil.

Aye, pop a cable tie around it for a quick/temporary fix, but it may already be damaged inside unfortunately :( Neil.

Well well :lol: Nearly another year on and the problem is still with me. It's not long had brand new red tops, brand new 3.5bar fuel pressure reg and a full wideband lambda setup which now feeds the original ecu and a gauge. I've been doing a little investigating lately after i had some strange afr readings...If i hold the throttle pedal at say 1500rpm, the afr fluctuates at 13/14:1 and sounds a little lumpy. But now and again, every so often (still holding same throttle) the engine sound becomes 'cleaner' and the afr drops to 11/12:1 then back up to 13/14:1 and so on... I've got a crap video from cold start for now, may get more if anyone thinks it's worth it?

I would describe them like so for around town driving: Vr6 = laid back cruiser wanting to stretch it's legs. G60 = Highly strung nutcase, wanting to scream at everyone and everything. Valvers = Happy medium, but like to be wound up. 2.0 8v = Good gearing and revvy enough around town. Neil.

What colour is the wire mate? Has it popped off the coil maybe? Neil.