Riley

:( Removed all carpet, sound deadening and the million clips etc that hold it all in. Propper knackered man, what a nightmare... I need the car out the unit by end of the month but even being up there every spare minute i don't think ill manage it. All the sound deadening is propper saturated man...Red dots on first pic show each piece hung up. Feel like im just working my b0ll0cks off for nothing all the time with this damn car. Carpet/seats etc.

Second damn time doing this...Why the hell i still own this fecking car i don't know. Can you spot the heater box? There the bast/\rd is... Ready to remove. Out. As you can see, the matrix is still pretty new.Ive only had the car 4 years and already replaced it once!!! :censored: Its leaking from the back of the flange.

Ahhh...of couse, yep! Less drag if air can pass through the flappy bit! I always turn the heater down before changing direction anyway tbh. Cheers mate, im off up to the unit again to rip all the carpet/sound deadening etc out and to mess with some flaps :nuts: :lol:

Cool 8) Cheers mate. I found some yellow foam but it would need chopping down thickness wise which would end up messy. So ive just acquired a bit of thin foam backed carpet that will do the job with a bit of spray adhesive! :lol: :D Does air need to pass through those holes then? Not sure why if so? Neil.

Bump, id like to have a look at sorting this today if possible. Ive sorted some foam i can use i think! Neil.

One hundred dollars!!! to ship the little rubber breather pipe on the rocker cover! :shock:

Guys...Ive noticed on my G60 that if i have ignition on and move the key/push it in/out...the volt gauge goes up and down. Does this mean new switch time? And how good is it to find yet another relatively simple job, ruined by the vw designers? How the feck do those bolts come out? Im presuming that if they are removed that you could spin the switch housing to get a driver on the screw? Rather than having to pull the spline off? And the stupid damn screw...

Im replacing the heater matrix for the second damn time... :censored: Anyway, can anyone give me a definate answer on this...There are three holes in the metal flap pictured, the foam is a little tired and one hole is fully exposed. 1/ Should it be? Or should all three holes be covered? 2/ Is the foam available anywhere quickly? Grabbed a couple pics of my heater box fix which i did some time ago too, its still holding up mint.

I know what ya mean mate...I sometimes think about going a racy route with mine... Today i only managed to pick a bit of underseal away (where its been jacked up a million times) and went back to bare metal, then etch primed ready for some stone chip/waxoyl. Its all i can manage at the moment, im suffering with damn chest pains again... So i still have to take all the dash out and fit a new heater matrix for the second bloody time! It will at least give me an ideal oppurtunity to fit the new Innovate LC-1 wideband lambda and air/fuel gauge. :) Got it for £165 delivered via a group buy on Volksdevil, ive gone for the red gauge. Neil.

What won't read vac all the time Simon? My current one? I know mate, but at tickover its good to see if there is ever any change (ie:a leak etc) and on part throttle cruising it can be just in vac or at zero until positive pressure arrives. Im not happy with my current set up as the vac/boost is side lit, and my others (volts/oil pressure) are back lit :lol: Was thinking like this for seperate vac/boost gauges...obviously vac would read...then as it hits zero, the boost would read. But is it the correct way to pipe seperate gauges up?

At the moment ive got a vdo vac/Boost gauge as per pic...But im considering going for two seperate gauges, one for Vac and one for Boost. Currently the vac/boost gauge is piped up to the inlet manifold via the oem t piece that ran to the carbon cannister. My question is, can i simply keep this single line and use a t-piece in the car to supply both the vac + boost gauge? Cheers, Neil.

Like don't try fit the nozzle in silicone just because it looks better :lol: :( Another bit of bad news...typical of the damn thing. Don't believe it man... Rear footwell. :( :mad2: Looks like the heater matrix has broke AGAIN. Ive already fecking changed it once, dashboard out job and everything. As if i can be ar$ed doing it all again. Managed to change the oil, filter, sump plug and seal, air filter, dizzy cap, rotor arm, fuel filter. And actually got the mk1 golf plate holder mounted on the bumper, properly bolted the bumper on and fitted the lights...also used some of the same black mesh in the bottom left corner where the cold air feed is. Waxoyled the wishbones again, waxoyled the cross member, tightened all the wishbone bolts, ball joints, track rod ends, drop links etc etc blah blah feckin blah... I dunno what the hell to do with it now...just getting more and more p|ssed off with it, its like a constant battle with the damn thing.

I can cope with mine because ive got 'issue's' too. Must have to still own the FECKING THING!!! :censored: Quick example...Ive driven like 18k miles in it since ive had it...ive had to replace two water pumps, and tonight the heater matrix has gone for the second time! :censored:

Hi mate, it is indeed the very product 8) Its also perfectly legal as the mot 'book' states that forward facing lights must be yellow or white. A single piece of 12"x16" (cut in half to 6"x16") will protect both faces of corrado headlights. Neil.

Scrub the above...£90...£90!!! fr|ggin quids worth of crap that will fall to bits again :sad: Really didn't want to spend that on top of £600 quids worth of suspension, knowing that they will suffer with dissimilar metal corrosion again. Can only do our best to grease things up i suppose, not that it has helped in the past :gag: Gonna have to hold back on the nitrous for now. Discovered they wouldn't slide over the shocker body, what with the old ones falling off! So had to remove the strut, and its true what people say about them being Koni's! They sit on a little spacer in the body (red in pic) New top mounts pictured too. Built up with plenty of old skool shell grease. And its finally sat back on the floor! Still need to nip all the wishbone bolts up, as i just dropped it to tighten the top mount nuts. Last video of the silly knight rider light, only did it for the crack... Neil.

Cheers mate...Its the other one i was wanting because according to a document i have here...They are both ecu relays but the other one is supposedly for when not running a cat, and incorporates lambda heating? :? Does anyone know anything about this? Neil.

Can anyone tell me the vw part numbers of the two relays which have 30, and 32 stamped on the top respectively. Neil.

PS:The crank bolt shearing/coming loose has happened to quite a few others in the past...Vw now sell a replacement (for the g60) that rids the issue. Neil.

Oh dear... Imo they should have at least refaced the end of the crank and it sounds like they didn't! or ideally replaced it! The woodruff key (not really, more of a cut out and matching slot) is machined into the crank so its not an easy repair and not as simple as bolting the pully back on and hoping it will be ok im afraid. :( If the pully is wobbling then its not sitting right due to the damage by the sounds of it, and it will eventually cause problems again. The ignition timing will probably be affected too. What were they reffering to as 'rod'? Welcome to the forum anyway mate, unfortunate first post though. :( Neil.

For fucks sake :censored: I ordered some new fk collars in November (8 in total needed) Were supposed to be around 6/7 quid each...They have arrived today at £11.50 each inc vat!!! :censored: £92 fecking quid! There no chance im paying that for a pieve of fecking mass produced alloy that will rot and fall off again anyway! So thats that then...rado is staying on the axle stands for even longer. Ill never bother with FK again as they don't seem to realise that ally collars are a sh|t idea but are happy to rip you off with some new ones...which will fall apart again. Not pleased.

Stands for 'Jacka$$' my dad in other words :lol: Ive done what i should have probably done from the start :lol: I think it looks sh|t tbh, but its there for performance rather than looks i guess. At least i made an effort to get the hole in the bumper finished off nicely i suppose. Neil.

Hi mate, The first one is correct for the G60...Mine looks like that, but it has the sensor from a vauxhall (the second one) :? Neil.

Hi mate, magnex would normally provide a bracket for the back box. Sounds like you are missing this piece, and as far as i know magnex won't supply them as a single item unless badgered. Not sure if they are still trading tbh either? Neil.

I must be seeing things surely? Or do i really have a fr|ggin vauxhall sensor with a vw plug on the end!? 0258003165 Correct G60 bosch number - Click Mine looks the same. 0258003300 The part # on my sensor - Click fecking vauxhall! But mine has the plug from the first picture! :shock:

Reyt...Sommet weird is going on :? Ive just removed the lambda probe from the G60, it was fitted around 3 years ago, bought off ebay as new. Now...On the plug it has a part number where it has a little vw sign, i think its 357 972 784k or the bold number is a 9 or a 0...Its hard to see. But! On the sensor it has...Bosch - 0258003300 Now if you go here and click the 'edit' menu in your browser, click 'find on this page, for that part number (0258003300) ...does anything come up? Am i seeing (or not seeing) things? :shock: Now do the same here...WTF!? [] What the hell is going on? :ignore: