Riley

Sound deadening is still a bit patchy so im leaving it just one more night and it should be ok, ill keep the dehumidifier in the car even when ive refit it all just to really dry it out. The foam on the heater box flap was tired so i removed it, and replaced with some thin industrial carpet and also fitted the new heater matrix. A peg had also come off, but it just pushed back in, probably caught it during removal. Is this car boring/tiring anyone else to death? Common problem on the corrado's is the heater direction cogs snapping out of the box, here's a fix i did some time ago now...Still holding up perfectly. Inside the heater box. Underneath. Fitted a new vag knock sensor(054 905 377A) and bolt (N010 2336 - 15lbsft-20nm), rocker cover breather grommet (028 103 500) and throttle body air screw and seal (037 133 432). The air screw feels nice and tight compared to the old one.

I think its actually 15ft/lbs OR 20nm?

Is 15Nm definately right guys? Where is it quoted? There seems to be a few figures flying about!

Does anyone have any info/ratio's etc for the CHA gearbox? Cheers,Neil. :)

Nah its cool to do so Simon, it just says not to take power from the dimming side of things (the blue/grey wire) I took a feed from the grey/red which is sidelights so it dims with headlights on dipped/low/high 8) I just permanently wired in the led/switch because i don't mind a bit of tidy wiremongery :lol:

Getting there with the loom. Decided to make the lc-1 wideband fully integrated, its pretty simple stuff really. Also making a new loom for the vdo gauges, all the red/brown wires are what ive put in. The lc-1 has fused 12v with ignition, as does the afr gauge. They have their own earths, and the gauge has a feed from the headlight switch for dimming when lights on. There is a little led and momentary push switch there too but you can't just see them, they will be incorporated into the dash as a permanent fixture for calibrating the lc-1. The vdo gauge loom is fed from the original stereo wiring. Still need to finish it and make a little loom up for the illumination.

The irwins should scare a screw head, they remove allen head bolts! 8) Id definately advise replacing the screws with stainless once you get em out etc. Neil.

Purple on your car loom is the signal, earth one is pretty obvious, and the two heater wires are white...these can go either way round. Neil.

Aha! That show it right there mater, spot on! :D The other BK/Y which runs from the glove box wiring, it goes to a volt gauge! My guess of auxillary gauges was correctamondo :D :lol: Cheers mate, i knew i didn't recognise it/remember unplugging it! Neil.

Possibly able to use? I had trouble with mine when i first bought it, needless to say i bought some stainless screws from a local place.

Ahhh, thats a blue/grey wired plug right next to the heater speed switch. 8) Cheers mate, would be good if you could have a look for me. It comes out of the same sleeving as the fag lighter wiring (white 3 pin plug) Neil.

Nope. The winners prize of sod all is slipping away lads... :( :lol:

Nah, that gets its feed from the bulb holder touching the actual fag lighter surround. C'mon lads, who's gonna get it? :lol: Seriously though, i dont want one silly connector holding up putting the dash back in!

Bump, gonna try nip up to the unit in my dinner and want to show this connector/wire who's boss! Any idea's anyone? Neil.

Nah, it must be someting that becomes live with 'ignition on' as thats what the glove box light does iirc, and its the same wire if you know what i mean. Neil.

No worries mate... Yeah, it runs up, then splits into two (the black/yellow) it runs to the glove box light positive, and also runs the opposite way to the fuse box. Its not auxillary gauge lighting for if you have the vdo dials is it? Just seems weird that i really can't remember what it is :? Neil.

Anyone know what the red arrowed plug above is? Its propper bugging me like :lol: Simon... Blue = heater box. Red arrow = heater resistor pack. Basically where the plug for the fan motor goes.

As t'other thread Simon, find the big bunch of Yellow wires, and the plug on the bottom of the fan motor, it plugs into the actual resistor pack, silver thing that unclips. 8) Fitted new ignition switch, the volt gauge no longer fluctuates when i move the key...Mmmmm. Also new bonnet stay clip and dip stick guide for the hell of it. And more importantly, new vag heater matrix. Still pulling the damp out of the sound proofing with the dehumidifier.

Nah none of those two mate :) The heater panel lighting is the typical grey/blue coloured wiring which is well over to the left of the above pic. I fr|ggin forgot to get you a pic of the heater resistor pack too Simon...But if you find the plug on the bottom of the heater fan/box, well thats the resistor pack. If you push the top clip upwards, the pack will lift out. Neil.

I can't remember what this plug is (Red arrow) It comes from the same area as the fag lighter wiring, and it leads up to the glove box light i think, it has the same colours anyway....black/yellow and brown. see red arrow. Its quite long, as if it runs somewhere further away than the fag lighter. The white arroow is the fag lighter plug. Anyone know what it is? Just can't bloody remember! :? Cheers, Neil.

So far this year: 19/2 Hammerite stone chip spray x2 for floor pan £12 14/2 Ignition switch (may as well while dash out) £12 14/2 Heater matrix £35 6/2 Coilover collars £92 31/1 Grill mesh £30 quids worth 31/1 Bumper painted for second time £200 28/1 oil,filter,air filter,thermostat,housings,fan switch,dizzy cap,rotor etc etc £75 24/1 Expansion tank and cap £28 24/1 3W sidelight bulbs and intercooler hose clips £18 15/1 New red top injectors £85 14/1 Intercooler plug and cold air ducting £15 10/1 New 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator £50 1/1 Alloy pipe for nitrous fogger nozzle £10 £662.......And its not even on the road, its sat there with no dash/carpets/interior trim :pale:

Unfortunately its the microswitch in the handle thats gone by the sound of it. If you stick your ear right up to the handle and slowly turn the key both ways, you may just hear the click, should hear it both ways. Could still be the microswitch even if you do hear it click both ways though. New/secondhand handle time really, then stick the repair linkage kit on that. It may be worth poping the door card off to make sure the wiring is in tact first... Neil.

It sounds like a master/slave cylinder problem to me...but im no expert on the hydraulic set up, i too prefer good old cable/rod change! Have you checked the fluid level in the brake fluid pot? Neil.

On every sony head unit ive had over the last few years (not xplod)...You put the Yellow to permanent live and the red to switched live. Id imagine the xplod should have the same two wires. Neil.

Another great bit of design/engineering on the corrado eh :lol: :gag: Id like to know the 'mechanically correct' position too. As if half the mechanics out there would even think of marking a ball joint before removing it. Neil.