Riley

Ive used gsf and genuine ones in the past...no difference. 8) Its a good idea to run some coolant flush with water first though, as its the crap in the water ways that will make your new tank cruddy. Its available from most accessory places (top gear etc) its made by holts i think, just remember not to leave it in there though...could do some damage. Neil.

:lol: Im hoping the new lambda (specific to no cat convertor) along with new system and remap will show the problem up or sort it for good! Did indeed sell the mk1 mate :( It went for 8K...If things were diffarent, we wouldn't have let it go for double that. :( Front bumper is painted finally! To cut a long story short...the guy who last painted it made an absolute mess of it, the paint peeled off, and it wasn't even flatted back in most places! So i had to peel/scrape it all off! nightmare! It now has the recess that i cut plastic filled, and it chamfers into the hole for the intercooler.Hard to get on the pics... Then i thought id try the mesh number plate again, but ive gone off the idea all together i think. So im gonna go for black mesh and no plate at all. Because the mesh has a sort of open/closed pattern depending how you look at it, it gives the below look while looking up at it. And the below look while looking down on it. Fitted.Excuse the sign for my dad...who isn't called Jack btw (its short for jacka$$ :lol: Im gonna use black mesh like below but same larger hole style as the white above.

Got some new hose clips for the intercooler hoses. All are new now and don't cut into the pipework. While fitting the red tops and 3.5bar fpr i covered the loom that runs across to the isv/over run switch and fuel pressure switch in oem loom tape. It fired up no problem, and i just had to get a vid of the noise inside the cold air feed i made, sounds mental [LOL] Neil.

Brand new Ford red tops - 0280 150 945 312cc @ 3bar and 14.5ohms.

The first 16 valve golf sold by vw was a mk1 known as the 16S. The 'S' stands for soupapes(sp) which means 'valves' in french, it was Vw France that marketed them along with development from oetinger. They were 1600cc and around 138 brake horse! 8) A pretty damn rare mk1 now...forget the 'campaign' which is basically just a run out of the hard top mk1. I had the rare optional lower boot spoiler from one with the 16S badge and all, but it ended up in the bin years ago :( Neil.

Damn, cheers man :D Glad the piece a sh|t has inspired at least one person :D :lol: I love it really, can't wait to get it back on the road! So much left to do yet though! Neil.

Id lean towards the lambda sensor or associated wiring. Possibly also worth checking the injector wiring and any earth leads (remove and clean up with emory paper) Neil.

If its stuck in position, dosconnecting/reconnecting the battery can sort it. Neil.

Guys, anyone know the overlaps of any of the cams mentioned in this thread? Think im decided on one pending this final bit of spec. How does 44 degrees sound??? Cheers, Neil.

Yeah i've found it too short in the past too mate :scratch: But i raise it up on the fpr now as there is plenty of room while still being a good fit. Keeps the 100mm pipe then, im funny like that :wave: Dosn't really show it in the pic. Neil.

I wish mate! Every spare minute of my life after work is going into the corrado and editing pics at this time of night :lol: Just got back from the unit again! Brand new 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator. New vac line, should be 100mm long. More bits tommorow hopefully. Neil.

Thanks for that mate 8) Just thought, how will my 215/45/16's affect things there? And those 'cogs' what is included exactly? Is it just fifth gear? I have a feeling other associated 'bits' are needed? Oh...and the ASD code, did we find the ratio's etc for that? Appreciate your input into the thread, makes interesting reading. Neil.

Yep, those are in effect...spoilers. :) There's always the much better, more long term, fit and forget, less damaging option of a subtle high quality paint protection film from a certain company :scratch: :lol:

Guys, im thinking about going for a different box on mine, ive always hated the original ratio's. Its fairly obvious that the CTN is a good choice, but earlier in the thread the CTN with 16v CDA fifth was mentioned and not heard much since? To me it looks like a really good option as it brings 4th/5th closer together and drops the crazy 170+mph of the CTN without the 16v fifth to a more realistic/useable 150+mph. (can't remember exact top speeds, having real problems with the forum at the mo) Does that sound right? Mines currently running at 206bhp and 189lb's ft, but im going for red tops/3.5bar fpr/4 branch and system/remap/nitrous. So would the CTN with CDA 5th be a good bet? Could someone repost the two graphs of CTN vs CTN with CDA 5th as i can't seem to view them. Cheers, Neil.

Hi mate, There are three bolts at either side under the front of the car. Do not remove the middle ones, only remove the two outer ones at either side of the car. Once they are removed its just a case of either removing the inner arch liners, or popping the bumper off/around them as i do. Then unclipping fog lights/indicators. Neil.

Oh i dunno mate, just random hammering, sawing, filing, filling, drilling, tapping, painting etc :lol: Cheers Phil :D

So here is the bracket i made up. Notice the crappy looking original bolts holding the throttle cable guide. Painted the bracket. Cut down two Red anodised allen bolts and mounted the microswitch onto the bracket. And voila!

They do the job intended...But aren't the best idea as you should always remove them after 7 days at the most, id say less actually...Just fit them as and when needed (long motorway journey for example) Its imperative to keep them, and the bonnet clean or they can cause damage to the paint. Neil.

Im pretty sure that the later bonnet won't line up just as it should with the early wings/front panel etc...It will physically bolt on though. Neil.

Aye, 95% its the cable then mate 8) Worth just checking something though first... Pop the cable off at the pedal (unhook it) and then swing it up and down by hand, just to check that the pedal bush isn't knackered and causing any stiffness. Neil.

Another bit done on the Rado... Ran the nitrous line through into the rear, its sat in the middle of the rear bench under the arm rest for now. Made up a bracket and started on the throttle body activation/microswitch. I got the white one with the kit, but gonna see about using the black one (from a sunbed) as it just looks better. The standard looking throttle cable mount, where ive decided to bolt the microswitch bracket. Mounted. The nitrous will kick in at full throttle only...and only when turned on via a switch in the car (need to sort that yet) And here it is at full throttle.Need to tidy it up/adjust it/chop the screws etc yet. Neil.

The wound springs on the throttle body spring it back mate :) :) Mine was sticky before i ported/polished it, so i sprayed springs with carb cleaner to remove the crap, then oiled em up. Been mint since. The cable could cause it too, but you shouldn't oil them as they are self lubricating...If you do oil them they will feel great for about 3 days and then be horrid. Probably worth sticking a new cable on and cleaning/oiling the springs. Neil. :)

Clickety click :) Neil.

Looking good mate 8) Sits real nice to say it aint on coilovers (i thought it was tbh!) Neil.

Good going mate 8) Im not doing too bad i don't think? considering its only got the basic mods really? Always want more though eh :lol: Just got back from the unit again... Fitted the brackets i made to hold the nitrous/fuel solenoids, then fitted the actual solenoids and piped the intake side of things back up. Still need to wire up the solenoids/full throttle activation switch and trigger switch, im gonna wire it all up then use the old OE loom tape again. Also need to take a fuel feed from the original after run pressure switch on the fuel rail, the fuel solenoid sits perfectly inline for it as per old pic below. I could simply take the pipe off the switch/fuel rail and stick it on the solenoid, or put a T piece in there. Also ran the nitrous line through the bulk head into the car ready to route it to a bottle when i sort one. All seems to be running sweet, and the g-lader still whirrs like a b|atch :D Im still not very happy with the original plastic c/o pot pipe...But it does the trick for now. How it currently looks, its absolutely filthy man, will just be happy to get it back on the road so i can clean it all up again!