Riley

Can anyone describe exactly what happens in what order to get a spark at the plugs? from start to finish...im talking...current passes from this to this via this kinda thing :lol: In really easy to understand terms please if possible. Cheers,Neil.

Its a late uk g60 potatonet :) later ones have bigger fuel tanks... I blanked off the isv at the inlet manifold,i left it connected electronically though as ive heard damage can be done to the ecu if its unplugged? Anyway,started it up and it was just ticking over very low...tweaked the idle screw on the back of the throttle body and i couldn't believe how well/smooth it was running :? Propper stable and smooth. Took it for a spin and it seemed to drive pretty well,just felt smoother...but it was still slow to rev,and i think it 'popped' once. :( Another thing though...Jesus christ,motorway on way back home i just gave it a bit of stick and it hit a definate 17 psi on the boost gauge felt like it too! Normally hits bang on 15 psi and no more. :? I didn't go crazy because i understand that it could run lean,but jesus...felt addictive :lol: Anyway...its still a piece of sh|t . Neil.

I believe some later G60's had a tps? I never knew this,anyone got a pic of it? Cheers,neil.

Guys...in the video's on previous page,someone has suggested it sounds like my isv is trying to hold the engine at idle? What ya reckon?

Hi m8,yep...ive swapped the co pot from another known working corrado that i broke (have also checked that its adjusted correctly) Cheers,Neil.

Im gonna end up doing sommet silly... How the fu*k can it just start doing this after being parked up for 30 minutes nearly two Fuc*ing years ago!!!!!!!!!???????????????? :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: And why does no bast*rd garage around here know what the fuc*ing hells wrong with it????????? I swear...im on the verge of losing it with trolley jack in hand...would feel so good right now to put it right through every panel on the piece of sh|t :mad: Video's:I couldnt get it to do the popping :mad: but i hope someone can tell the difference. 1st one,wot switch as it should be (excuse noise of mongy foot) Second one,wot switch held closed.

Just tried it manny :( Still the fucking same :( Dunno why the fuck im bothering anyway...

I also tried to remove my headlights 2day,but i decided in the end that for what I needed to do i needn't take out the headlights,as I could just take the whole front panel out.I think with the panel out I think I may be better access to the recessed rounded screw!? The whole front area is suffering badly from rust.I took the old intercooler out and one of the screws were so badly corroded it just snapped in half. I'm going to have to replace about a dozen screws etc.. Can you guys use a socket on an extension on the 3rd screw? Will probably have to hold the socket (tight fitting one on screw head) under the slam panel,and pass the extension through (if it will fit?) and then tap the extension/socket onto the screw head? May not be possible...just thinking aloud as i havent got mine in front of me to look at. Neil.

Cheers m8 8) Anymore thoughts from anyone? Neil.

Bump. :)

The fronts just need pushing,not turning like the rears. 8) Ive always just undone the fluid resevoir cap (normally below max most cases anyway) and used these with a nice even pressure... Neil.

Yep,thats correct m8 :) Its like a diffarent car,revs really responsively...ie:you stab the throttle and it responds straight away.Plus the popping totally dissapears. Without it taped shut...you hit the throttle and it takes a second to respond,its just slow to rev,and every now and again it will pop instead of revving. Cheers,Neil.

While ive got corrado's on the brain... At the point of plugging the bts back in once you have 6deg btdc @ 2/2.5k rpm... Do you: A:Let it drop to idle,and then plug bts back in then blip past 3k 3 times. or B:Plug it back in while holding the 2/2.5k rpm and then blip past 3k 3 times. or C:It dosn't matter? Neil.

Hi m8,The blue temp sensor is a new vag one,and when disconnected the rpm drops to 500. Ive gone through the wiring testing for continuity to/from the ecu plug. Everything seems ok (can't believe im typing this,done it all before but what the hell...) Just the below that got my attention but i think they are fine: The brown/white on the throttle switch plug has continuity to ecu pins 5/6/9/10 which according to this ecu pinout diagram here is: 5 CO Adjustment blue 6 Ground (Sensors) 9 Air temp sensor blue/white 10 Coolant temp sensor brown/green And again using the above link...It states that pin 6 should have continuity to the lambda earth.But ive never found this,but as above i think this is correct anyway as the lambda is earthed through the body/engine mount. None of the other sensors/senders/earths end up at pins that they shouldn't do...so id say there is no shorting anywhere. :( The fuel pressure has been checked (by a local jacka$$ garage) and seems to be ok according to the bentley manual. Ecu relay has been swapped from a known working car,so has fuel pump relay. Haven't had anyone look at the car apart from local garages/mates..and me who ran out of real patience nearly 2 years ago :? :( Just dying to find the cause though... Darren,im just holding out on that offer of borrowing the lm1 at the mo...really have to watch the cash. Neil.

Damn,forgot to add the injector loom to the list also! I fitted one from a known working car. :( Edit:nope,i already added it to the list. Cheers for the help m8,i may even venture upto the unit tonight to strip some of the throttle switch wiring back. Neil.

Thanks Dan,this is the kind of post i like to read. Is it something that could happen? Sorry m8,but i think you fail to appreciate my position here...Ive spent around 1k trying to sort this... Ive been to garages who have wrongly diagnosed it time after time...Most costly was when i was told it was a sticking valve...so to save labour charges i took the head off and reseated everything myself.Can you imagine how p|ssed off i was when it fired up first turn of the key still doing it? Spent countless late nights trying to figure it out... Im in debt,and ive had to give up work due to illness. So simply getting the wallet out is not an option. :? Everything you mention has been checked,except for the knock sensor...which when unplugged dosn't cure it.If it was something so simple...im sure someone somewhere off the forums would have found the cause by now. What do you think to Dans suggestion above? Fuel filter changed :( will add it to the list.

Have just spent 5 mins tidying up the... Volksdevil Annual Gathering website at V-A-G.co.uk Great to see everyones efforts were recognised. :) Neil.

Yep,here's a list of everything ive changed. Fuel filter. ecu. chip. head gasket and all new exhaust/inlet gaskets. Valves reground/re-seated. New cam belt/tensioner and static timing spot on. all sensors inc lambda. ign timing bang on 6deg btdc. co pot. Injector loom. Injectors (as of today) Injector seals and caps. pipe 1 meter long to ecu. Spark plugs from vw £70 feckin quid! Spark plug leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm. Dizzy itself. New throttle body gaskets. New throttle body switches. All earths cleaned up with emory and replaced. Alternater. Voltage regulator. fpr. Probably more that ive forgotten...

Put the carbon cannister back on in a false sense that it may cure this... It didn't. But now i have the big bangs out the exhaust on quick gear changes like i used to...car is also not starting first time...its always the second go that it starts.

And when you wet sand it,sand diagonally across the scratch/area...ie:bottom left to top right and bottom right to top left. Neil.

Is the touch up pen the correct colour? Also,did it come with the laquer? if they don't come with laquer...id stray towards not using laquer. Not sure on colour match though...either wrong colour,or you haven't got enough paint built up in the scratch/let it harden enough. Ps:With scratches like these...Its always best to roll up some 800/1000 grit paper tightly and run it up and down the scratch.This will take away any definate edges that may even show up after paint correction. Neil.

Well...im now running the new rear dics on both sides with 6mm machined off the faces...AND... I haven't had any tyre/arch contact as yet :D Also went for mot and the last thing they checked was handbrake,the caliper on the left wasn't working at all....so new caliper and its gone straight through. :) Neil.

Had em on around a couple of years...not done many miles :( Not stainless bodies,but aye...a m8 of mine said its due to the chemical reaction between steel/ally. Think i got em from awesome via a groupbuy on e38...bigpants baby,rough price on the new collars? although i may see if the warranty will come in handy? Ive never even adjusted these on the back :? Neil.

Was reversing the rado into the unit earlier and heard a 'ping' type sound...Had a look about and couldnt see anything... Anyway,as i was cleaning up after fitting new rear discs/pads/wheel bearings...i found a bit of red anodised ally I knew what it was straight away...bottom spring collar!!!!!!!1 The other 2 bits were still on the shocker (they were as one) until i removed it,and it just fell into two bits in my hand :shock: As you can see from pics,ive always kept the coilies greased up...and you can see how minty they are where ive wiped em. Really worried now as the remaining one may be ready to fall to bits also. :( Seriously not impressed. :censored:

Cheers m8 :D Just need to sort the other side tommorow,then see how it goes with the rubbing/catching issue... The engine in the pic...tis the new lump for me ol mk1 :D