JMC

Cheap modification - bag of red or blue (or indeed any colour you want) 3mm LED's from ebay with 12v resistors for changing the colour of the all the interal switchgear from the standard green. Cost - few quid, but a fair bit of time.

Aw hell, just when I thought I didn't have anything else to buy, this comes along....

Headight loom and decent bulbs gets my vote as an effective cheap mod. The Lupo wipers, I didn't find were much better then my old ones. The old ones can be substantially impoved by bending the arms a bit. Something that has been covered at length in a thread before, but just take the back seats out along with everything heavy you can find. No cost, but improved power:weight.

Have you tried chatting with G-Werks about this - they may even be able to supply the right belt??

Been ages since I've seen any, then saw this morning. 1st was in Ottershaw around 8:40AM, personal plate H** HOT, exchanged a wave. 2nd about 2 miles later on the way into Old Woking. N reg Blackberry of some description. Looked like you had a huge dalmation in the back...

Well done mate :D Works out somewhat cheaper than a replacement panel then....

One thing to bear in mind with the early heater lighting - even when working properly it is woefully poor. Just don't expect it to be lit up like a Christmas tree with the single bulb.

Green leds in Maplin are WL33L. However you might be better looking for ultrabright low voltage ones on ebay. They are much brighter but will need to be fitted with a resistor.

Too dim, tried that type first, miles dimmer than the standard little green bulbs. Tried Maplin's 3 volt ones, again at the time not bright enough. Needs a pair of bright LEDS. LEDs were green from maplin, part number N30BY http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=45930 End up with a metal film resistors from RS Spares part number 144-295, 2.7K ohm, Metal Film 0.125w. Now superceded http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &x=29&y=15 (You need this physical size to get the resistors in without fouling the mechanics.) Maplin at the time didn't offer 0.125w resistors. And note the two small insulating sleeves in the photo on page 1 of my postings. The LED lens for the ring illumination need "damping" or it looks unbalanced so I painted a black blob of touch-up paint on the crown of the lens. This is the LED furthest from the dimmer control. Don't bother with paint on the other as it not as transparent and it needs the direct beam of the LED onto it. The fuse I used was a 1 amp standard blade fuse like the Corrado's type. Dave's 200 mA fuse will work just as well. I tested the 1 amp fuse on a length of same wire across a battery's terminals direct. Fuse blew, wire - no damaged found, it was instant. My switch operates a BRMotorsport headlight loom. It is always stone cold. Sticky? Get ur finger out! Should have been done in 2005 :lol: This topic has it all in one spot now for the headlight switch problems. No excuses now!!! . Strange, never had a problem with them for the early headlight switches (and I've done loads of them). Had to take the existing green filter in the switch out though, and with the late headlight ones it pays to dremel down the opaque plastic below the icon as that could be causing it to look dim. Also the led's are very critical on alignment - a few degrees off and they look dim. If you can be bothered to you can get 120 degree dispersed ones, but they are normall low voltage and need resistors.

Just get the standard 3mm 12V led's from Maplins mate. Most of the switches are 12v (apart from the window switches) and the headlight one definately is.

Yeah, the original isn't soldered - the wires are held in by friction against the pins. Good to hear that you've managed it :D

It is well and truely stuck together and was not meant to be dismantled, so yes, you'll have to stick it together afterwards. It fits together very well though, so you could remove and open it up and temporarily tape it back together while you sort out the bulb. There is just one bulb. When you have the white plastic bit off you'll see the bulb in a light brown holder. Push on the pins from the back and the bulb and holder should come out the front. Then you have the pull the pins out of the holder to release the bulb. They are tight, and you'll need pliers. As I say these weren't meant to be dismantled and put back together again.

Once you have the panel out you need to slip a very sharp knife under all of the little tabs on the back (where the black plastic comes slightly over the white bit. Then the white section can be removed. The bulb will come out with it. As for the right replacment, best to check a Maplin catalogue and see which is the closest 12v match in terms of size. Drop me a PM if you want more details.

I have the loom as well as the switches, so basically was wondering whether it would swap straight over. Good to hear that's probably the case :D However I ave a couple of other little centre consol jobs to do before then...

Anyone....

Er, chargers are very specific about the lube they need. As above I'd recommend talking to either Jabba or G-Werks before even thinking about running it.

Rob depending on where you are, either call or visit G-Werks. They have done so many "removing of carbon canisters" they'll be able to explain/do exactly what you need to do. After 100,000miles you are better off just removing it all - tidies up the engine bay, and the CC wont be doing any good anyway, plus it is less places to leak.

I have a late foglight and demister loom, and the corresponding late switches which I'm wanting to fit to my G60. Anyone know whether these are a straight swap for the early setup, or does anything else need rewiring?

What you mwan? Have I not been helpful with something? I apologise if I haven't I try to be :/ It's a quote from Blackadder mate - don't worry.

Big thank you to beastie4126 for the loom. Quick delivery and well packaged.

Could be an idea... but I'd rather use NO2 or water injection, and I've already got a nice big intercooler.... :norty: Sounds like a good plan - you could always have a spray bar for a bit of extra kick.

As cooling is critical for these, what about a charger cooler Henny?

Personally I think this will be a great project Henny. Adding one of these engine to a nice light car and tweaking it as well should lead to a fun drive. Looking forward to see how it goes.

Or you can use something like this (or buy mine as I've been meaning to put it up for sale....). Fits from the underside of the throttle body on the original hose and massively quietens it down.

Yeah, I keep mine uder the arm rest, although gien the time involved even with getting that I'm considering the passenger footwell. Really gutted for you Millerman, and I hope the insurance sort you out properly.