JMC

That was me, although others may have done it as well. There are some pics in my build thread.

Thanks for the info on the lights Yan - I presume they will be the same for all Corrados (ther were no differences between early and late for these were there?).

Firstly, welcome. It is unlikely all the bulbs have gone. Not being funny, but have you tried adjusting the dimmer on the headlight switch - that effects the dashboard illumination. Otherwise I am fairly sure it is one fuse for most of that lot (try the search on here as it has been covered before). The rear view mirrors are heated as standard (and run at the same time as the rear window demister) but often the contacts on the mirrors have corroded much that they no longer work.

Yes, it is definately time consuming work. Look forward to seeing how it turns out.

Pretty much yet - I blend it in, but basically the thickness on the switches was about 1mm thicker than before. On the stalk I set the acetate prinout into the stalk rather than on the surface, so it was only just sticking up, just enough to give a slight bit of filler around it to blend it in.

In the switches I did I used double sides sticky tape and stuck them to the top surfaceof the switch. I then used filler to build up the level to the top of the acetate. On the stalk I did I actually recessed it slightly as the plastic was nice and thick. Again I used double sided tape. Worked fine for stopping it moving around.

So you don't have a standard G60 then? Right that makes a bit more sense. It should be linked to the action of the other 2 butterflies, so that when they are fully open it closes. When the engine is on part throttle or idle it should be open to allow for boost recirculation.

Standard setup should bleed away anything that you gain over 1 bar. When I went from 68 to 65 I didn't notice much of an increase in peak pressure, but it definately came in earlier (I was also using a flowed head so my peak pressure didn't get about 12psi anyway). If you want to modify the ECU, then that can be done - you can fit a 250kpa map sensor as used on the Rallyes.

Er, I've got mine on a VR6 - he does different ones, although not for all the models...

If you cut off the lower butterfly as indicated in your diagram and weld it up, all of the charger air will be forced into the engine all of the time. Not good. You can cut off and weld up the small pipe coming off the lower butterfly if you have removed the carbon cannister though.

Good idea that - can you post up how it works out please - I never found a good way of doing it :D

Yep thats the one. No worries - I guess you are from over the pon then?

You just need normal printer acetate - whatever your ptinter will print on. It's doens't need to be sticky - use double sided sticky tape for that. Yep, you are right about the paper on the back ot make it look white when the light is off. I used Halfords Stain black spray paint. Yes only painting the filler parts although I try an blend it into the edge of the acetate otherwise it just looks fake. The top one should have the printing on it, but on the inside if you know what I mean (hence printing some back to front). If you have the printing on the exposed face it can easily get rubbed of.

Yep use normal acetate and then print onto it. I used photoshop to create mirror images of the icons I was printing so that when I printed them and cut them out (and then stuck them together) the printed sides were protected by being stuck together. That way you end up with the unprinted side on the outside so there is nothing to scratch off. Also I found that just a single layer didn't stop the light from going through the black bits of the printing - that needed multiple layers (I used 4 in the end).

Oddly enough I don't really have one shot of how mine is now unfortunately. Most of the work has ben put on hold over the last year due to gf constraints. However that has changed now so I might be able to get some more done. Most of the individual items are in my build thread though... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=34451 And some of the switch work I used to do (operative word there- USED to do, it was massively time consuming) is on this one.... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=72211

Here you go, about half way down page 3 of this thread.... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=74867&hilit=pointless+mod+ever&start=30

I also thought about doing the heater vent controls the same wy as the spoiler button (and I've also done the indicator stalk so that the icons on that light up). On the heater vents the white icons are simply printed onto the thick black plastic - they will not light up from behind. You could potentially thin them doing with a dremel - good luck.

Anything is possible. Just depends on how much work it is. I did some illuminated spoiler switches a while back (which are similar and not meant to light up). Meant making a new front for the switch and blending it in to the original. Then making the wiring look neat. Lots of work (and I mean hours) but some think worth it.

I have a G60 with ABS and am running prosche 4 pots. I've asked this a few times and got no definate answer as to whether it needs upgrading, although my experience has been that the peddle definately has more travel, and the brakes more progressive than the original setup.

Cheers guys - got mine second hand of here though - no bolts, and no idea of the torque settings. Anyone know what they should be please?

Bit of a resurrection, but just got one of these, and I hadn't realised how huge they are :shock: . I've got a solid mount in there at the moment (in a G60), is there anything I need to know about fitting these (clearance issues, special bolts needed etc etc)

Yep the Audioscape boxes are defiantely for 10 inch subs. Heres a bit on wadding "with a sealed box, wadding does increase the effective box size, and in turn this increases the damping (lowered system q) which is generally a good thing with boxes at the smaller end of the recommended size - lower q makes it more punchy but slightly quieter but only a few db - dont pack in too much, just loosely fill about 2/3 of the box".

Yeah, I'd been told to watch out in the snow, but had never experienced it before. Good fun though, as long as there isn't anyone alongside :lol:

Just found out what 250bhp and an ATB diff mean for handling in the snow. Some nice sideways action on roundabouts :lol: . Anybody else found that?

It depends on i) how much you have and ii) if you want something different, but Neuspeed used to do a bolt on 2.0l 8v supercharger kit, and Bahn Brenner do a bolt on 2.0l 8v turbo kit. Neither of these are cheap (looking at $3000 ish plus the work) and of course you may have the left hand drive/right drive issues with the turbo manifold but they would be pretty cool. Have a word with G-werks as they are BBM dealers and can advise more.