JMC

I have another one of my rolling road maps for you. This was a comparison of bonnet up vs bonnet down during the run. This all came about becuase of a recent chat with Charlie at Surrey Rolling Road regarding cooling, and why my rr plots were always substantially different between the 1st and all the subsequent runs. What we did here was a few runs with the bonnet down (as per usual), then lifted the bonnet and did a few more runs. Basically all the down ones looked similar, all the up ones looked similar, so what I have plotted is a typical one from each. Massive difference in terms of low down torque, but also top end power....

Great build thread mate (always good to see pics) - but sorry can't help with your questions... Interested to hear how you get on with the charge cooler.

Should be fine to do that Wayne. If the block is earthed properly though you shouldn't need to - any good earth should do. Checking underneath is not too bad - it's all pretty obvious once you're under there. One of the first jobs I did on my G60 was changing the lambda - if I can do it, anyone can :lol:

Yeah thats the idea with the direct port injection Jon. Tap into each runner of the inlet manifold so each cylinder gets the right amount of nitrous and fuel. Only problem is of course is that the inlet manifold sits directly above the exhaust manifold on the G60 (and it's even worse with me having a 4 branch as they're not as good insulators as the orignal cast iron ones). Probably need to add some heat shielding in there. Going to aim to visit the Wizards of Nos next time I am back up north - be a lot easier to chat with them face to face with the car there.

I presume that was with the engine running and idling and up to temp Wayne? If so that is really low, and would suggest either a broken lead or dead lambda. As long as the -ve lead is touching bare metal on the block that should be fine as an earth. You can always check by using the resistance setting on the multimeter, between the block and the earth on the battery - should be very low if the block is a good earth. Have you tried removing the 4 pin lambda plug and looking at the connections going in to that? If that looks fine then its time to get under the car and look at the lambda plug and lead itself - see if there are any breaks and then take it from there.

For the live mapping then Steve (as in ex-Pitstop Developments) is your man. It's a hairy experience by the way as you need to go through the revs in different gears. Best to talk with G-Werks about that as he is the one they use. Cost varies depending on how much work needs doing (whether you are just tweaking a chip or whether you are starting from scratch). Expect to pay a few hundred though. Water injection is (fingers crossed) being sorted later this month when I get a Schrick cam as well :cheers: . Nitrous, well I've been having a good chat with Trev at Wizards of Nos about how best to do this. Direct port is needed given that recirc nature of the throttle body and charger, however the only realistic location is round the back of the inlet manifold - which of course is about the hottest location in the engine bay as it is directly above the exhaust manifold. I am off up north in a month or so, so am planning on stopping off at their workshop and having a bit more of a direct chat with them about the best way to do it. Could be my winter project though if all goes to plan. Let me know if you are down this way - always good to meet a fellow G60 owner :)

Thoughts on this Wayne - if unplugging the lambda made no difference to the idling then the chances are the lambda is at fault. If you have access to a multimeter it is easy enough to check, let me know if you need details on how. Jon, he did mention that he has disconnected the blue temp sensor and had the revs drop (as they should) on the previous post...

Interested to see what you get when it's all up and running - the mapping will transform it after any major mods. Flywheel measurements tend to vary quite a bit from place to place, as the corrections from wheel to flywheel are done pretty much on what the owners think (and with some places to make people feel better about their cars). Surrey Rolling Road is a good place and seems very accurate, and just down the road from me at Longcross. Someone normally organises a rolling road session about this time of year - worth keeping an eye out in the Events section.

Because I have a G60 Kempy - they're all early style...

Woooooooo, seemed as though I've missed out on the fun on this one recently. Now come on play nicely kiddies :fondle: I do find it funny when people quote flywheel hp's. As was mentioned above calculating flywheel powers are a bit of a black art and often very different from place to place, and even have been known to be bumped up by certain rolling roads to make people feel better about their cars. Wheel hp's are definately they way forward if you want any meaningful comparisons...

Doh. With the later ones people have tried 3 different routes. Electroluminescent wire (which requires a 12V to AC adaptor), lots and lots of 3mm red LED's, or a red light pipe spider from some Seat or certains Passats if I recall. They all seem to have their problems (especially complexity) and from what I've seen on the threads is none of them look particularly neat from the back. Thing is, I have an early heater setup, so have not played with the later ones...

The light pipe on the early heater controls is basically pants - you don't get good illumination to the ends using a single bulb. On the one currently in my car I have grafted in a couple of extra 12v miniature bulbs and that provides better illumination, however I am thinking by adding in a number of white wide angle leds in different spots I can get a really even bright lighting setup. Taking the thing apart I can make custom icon colours (again as I have with mine, and attached below is one I am working on at the moment). Only problem is of course it is very fiddly. However as I say, when they come through I'll give it a go and feedback how it looks.

Thanks for the reco Supercharged Junkie and glad you like them :D I've ordered some white leds today folks. I'm going to try modifying the early style heater controls with these to make them more evenly illuminated (and to be able to do custom colour schemes as I have done on mine). Will keep you all posted... Also useful if anyone fancies a set of white illuminated switches for a really clean look (as in the mirror switch below).

Goods news mate. Keep an eye on it, but it sounds like that might have cured it...

Keep in mind though the pressure sensor in the back of the MFA is now over 15 years old and should only be used as an approximation. If you want a boost/pressure read, then best to use a proper gauge.

Glad you liked them and they do look cool Ian :D Found this in another thread "My [red] Cig Lighter bezel is on it's way. Part #441 919 343 from an Audi dealership if your interested." Might be worth a try...

Not sure who the request for images was aimed at, but here's a pic of mine...

Nice looking car mate, and a good list of mods :thumbleft: . Did I read that right, that you bought this in Staines? As in Ali G Staines. Just up the road from me, but I've never seen that one around before.

:shock: What was that making at the wheels then...

PM'd with details Tim...

He does have one about 4 feet across. In my opinion it is good, but nothing like driving on the road. This seemed to be born out when we did the bonnet open with bonnet closed comparison.

1.9l, forged pistons, Golf G60 FMIC, flowed throttle body, stage 4 charger, Piper 285 cam, 68mm pulley, red tops, custom map. 196 bhp at the wheels (233bhp at the fly, and 203lbft). Will be more when I get the proper cam in there, lol.

PM'd you Andy...

UPDATE - I've ordered blue led's (to add to the reds I already have) now so will be able to do those in about a week :clap:

I didn't :( 15 years of grime and gradual decay meant mine fell to bits....