JMC

Yep, really happy with it :luvlove: and just need to top 3 slat grill now. Greg at Southam Bodies has done a fablous job on it. Sort of shame it wasn't a single variable test (with changing the stat and rad switch at the same time), but I know it just has to help. Rolling road booked for tomorrow, so fingers crossed....

Ok folks, here's an update. Just been down to G-Werks for the day (cheers Darren :cheers: ). Got loads done..... Fitted my Southam Bodies front bumper (now just need te replace my dodgy old 7 slat grill with a 3 slat one). Fitted new 19 row oil cooler, as the old 13 row one was struggling with keeping the new engine cool, low temp thermostat and rad switch (on the motorway on the way back the temps are now sitting at 80 degrees for the water and 90 for the oil). Also fitted the new injectors and chip, so it's pretty much all done now. Will be going off to get a RR done with Cahrlie at Surrey Rolling Road when I can get one organised. All in alla great day (as always). Oh, and on the way back I managed 33mpg as I was stuck in a long line of tourist evening traffic :mad2: , however it compares well with previous runs, and looks as though the government aren't getting any more of my hard earned as a result of the work :norty:

Wow, that is starting to look realy good :clap: . I wonder if there are any of our more university orientated types who would be able to do some aerodynamic modelling on this - would be really cool to get some real air flow info about the car?

Could be the tensioner pulley - when was that last changed?

Small world indeed - it's going back a bit, but I seem to recall one of my old school mates living on Tennyson Av (or just of it). I get home 2-3 times per year (not in tourist season though) so will definately let you know next time I'mm heading north :D :D

I grew up on Scholes park road, which is right at the nort end of the town. Whereabouts near Peasholm then? I know Peasholm well, used to work on the boating lake (and launch the planes during the naval warfare in summer :D ) and the mini golf course when I needed summer jobs. My folks now live in Brid and I get home 2-3 times per year. Strangely enough I have seen 2 other Rado's in Brid, quite surprising for a small place.

If I was visiting my folks, I'd say Bridlington, but I'm a bit to far away at the mo. Whereabouts in Scarborough are you - I grew up there?

One thing to bear in mind though will be convective heating in the bay as well as conductive (an dodn;t get me wrong - not trying to pick holes in the standalone system as it stands - strikes me as a great thing to do for extending the lifetime of the charger). When I open my bonnet after a long journey I am greeted with a blast of hot air. Just being there in hot air will also have the effect of heating the charger (and with hot recirculating boost coming back through it as well), but I agree, conductive heating will be the main cause. Personally I'm sure there would still be a benefit from having a cooled oil line to the charger, but then choose oil suitable for running at these lower temperatures - anything to lower inlet temps should be good in theory.

I've always liked the concept of the standalone oil supply for the charger (especially as the oil pressure is related to revs on the normal system), but was wondering if the ambient temp in the engine bay eventaully caused the temp of the oil to rise. Sounds as though the temp does creep up in use, but I presume there is nothing to stop you from using a small Mocal to keep the temp more tightly controlled.

Great work cheapmods :clap: , but definately time to look at a charge cooler. You might struggle with an FMIC with already having air con, but charge cooler would work. Keep it up mate.

I'm assuming you're refering to the coolant temp here. There should be quite a bit on the search about this. However the sender which feeds the water temp on the dash is the black one on the pipe work coming out of the front of the head. Buy one from VW (called, funnily enough, black temp sender) rather than other places such as GSF, and they are about 10-15 quid from memory. That should cure the temp not reading on the dash. Question is, is the temp alright in the system - what does the oil temp look like in use, and does the rad get hot when it should etc?

Specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based coolants are about 20% less than pure water from what I can gather in standard concentraton ranges. Oil wise I use Synta Silver (so a 10w40 semi sythetic) and I should think oilman will have that sort of info. Gut feeling - the water based coolant will still have a highe specific heat capacity than the oil, but I will have a dig round and find out....

Ah, but the thermal capacity of water is greater than that of oil, so it should take longer to heat up and cool down (but obviosuly the cooling down method is different and will have an effect). And yes, very catchy :lol: That makes sense Toad - hadn't thought about the thermal and viscous shock of suddenly having a litre of cold oil join the system. That would explain why it is warm even after a short journey, and why it is relatively slow to warm up - the rad being slightly open all the time would provide constant cooling. Am I right in thinking then that the water rad is not used until it is up to temp, or does the water system work the same way, providing slight cooling until up to temp when the stat opens fully? Times like this I realise, how little I actually know.

I know that will have put most of you off, but hopefully some fellow science geeks can answer this. Been keeping an eye on water and oil temps on my G60 since the rebuild. I've noticed that the water temp comes up quickly to 90, while the oil temp rises a lot slower, but ends up finally at a higher value. I have a mocal oil cooler which I thought were thermostatically controlled and therefore not going via the cooler all the time. Surely this should speed up the oil temp rise, while mine seems to be rising slowly. Also, anyone know what temp the mocal plates switch over - my cooler is warm when the mfa read 70 degreess for the oil temp? Any thoughts on this (or a healthy scientific discussion of what is going on) welcome :D

Oh My God - the number of people I know who have had their card cloned, it's scary. Glad to hear that the bank are working on it though.

Cheers for the advice folks. In the end I've gone for one from platemyride.co.uk, and it's a pressed metal one, in a slightly smaller size, with no space between my letters and numbers. Somewhat dodgy I know, but I'll keep my other plate in the car as well, just in case :lcop: arrives.

Wouldn't be one at Jabba would? Typically, about a month after I thought "Wouldn't it be good if...." I saw an article on Jabba in one of the VW mags, and saw a red one where they had had a go at this. Looked pants though - just cut a hole out and popped it in. Thats when I realised it'd have to be done properly if I was going to do it at all. Cheers though Simon - glad it looks as though it's been done well :D

Cheers for the advice folks. I am going to be a real pain though, as I still want a hard plastic numberplate (rather than the stick on one) as it's actually going to need to be mounted below the bumper on a couple of small brackets, and I really, really want something legal if possible (which rules out the bike ones). Any other suggestions welcome :D

Cheers for the PM too mate Cheapmods. Yes, it would be a bit of a trip from Boston to Louisiana. Maybe niext time I'm over I'll hve to do a road trip :lol: . The old bumper is not in very good shape - I think the previous owner must have run it into a wall at some point. So unless I decide to do something else with it it will probably go in the scrap heap :(

Still not got it mapped yet, but have my new fornt bumper (from Southam Bodies - thanks to Greg) which has had an FK debadged grill grafted into it to flow more air, and spent yesterday and today on the metal work for it. Now then, just need a small numperate and the time to fit it all together. Even though its not been mapped yet and has a few more bits to go on (red tops, Schrick cam, vernier cam sprocket, 65mm pulley) I had a power run done on it anyway - made 205bhp at Surrey Rolling Road, so it shouldbe a beast when the map is finally done :D

...front numberplate that is - and where is the place to get one that is legal? I'm relocating my front numberplate and want something a bit smaller than standard, but not tiny (the small ones I've seen are really, really small). Is there anywhere that does them and are they even legal? Not interested in a German plate or anything fancy, just one sort of 75% of the size. Anybody any ideas :shrug:

Lol, will remember that when I am about to hit a pole Jon. I actaully removed even more of the metalwork in the end as it was really rusty and wouldn't have added any strength anyway. Been out today with plenty of sanding and spraying and ended up with this. Right now then small numberplate needed.

oh off to the US...why not stop by and help me get mine sorted :dance: HAHA i'm sure you'll be busy, plus you'll probably be nowhere near my location. If you're in Boston, very happy to stop by mate :D . Where about are you based anyway?

Yes it was mate, lol. Maybe better in your case, all down to the individual fan design I suppose. I did a back to back comparison on the motorway driving under standard conditions to figure my temp differences out.

Cheers mate :D It has been a voyage of discovery, and taken me from knowing nothing at all, to enough to be dangerous :lol: . Sure it will get sorted soon as you say - everything is on hold slightly at the mo as I am off to the US next week, so it will all have to wait till I return. Looking forward to getting it mapped though :D :D . Keep us up to date with yours as well - looks like a great project.