JMC

This thread might be of interest.... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65642&hilit=rallye+intercooler

If it has a Rallye one on it, it will be between the rad and the grill. If it has a standard one on there then it will be down in the passenger footwell. Must admit, I didn't think I saw a Rallye one on there mate :( however of course I could be wrong...

Cheers guys, yes it does make sense, just got to get round to doing it now. Oh, and Neil it will be a different colour all together when it goes back in 8)

I'm about to take my headlining out, and could do with some advice please folks. Everything seems straight forward apart from there is the thin piece which runs round the the edge of the sunroof. This does not seem to want to budge on mine. I've had a quick look around on the search and I've found 'pull it out'. Is it really as simple as this - really don't want to break it? Any advice from someone who has taken out their headling would be great please :D

That motorway figure looks realy good, and even the town ones look fine. Are you going off the MFA or actually working out fuel consumption - the MFA's can play up.... To put your figures into context I get about 30 on the motorways (doing just a tad over 70 of course) and 20ish round town, and mines 'tweaked' to say the least, although I do drive like an old fart at times :lol: :lol:

Having tried both I can say "Yes, it does have an effect". Basically the 65mm will pull from lower down in the rev range. One thing I would say though, in your sig it mentioned nothing about a larger intercooler - have you fitted an FMIC? The problem you will start to get with the standard intercooler is heat soak, given its small size and crappy location. Also of course, is shorter times between rebuilds. I would recommend you go for a 68mm pulley and SNS chip, try it and then see if you like it and then take it from there.

Not particularly difficult, just time consuming. The mechanism is tightly interlinked in the with rear lock, and rear wash system. Plenty of knuckle scraping and head scratching, and should take about an hour to take out. The hardest bit is the screws into the captive nuts (you'll know what I mean when you get to it). Those nuts have a habit of breaking the plastic they are set in as VW used threadlock on the screws.

Depending on your taste, you can also get blue tinted mirro glass from DDI in Canada. Given the £65 price tag from VW, it would probably be cheaper as well :lol: . I have then on mine and it looks good (well I think so anyway :D )

Reached a time where I haven't thrown money at the car for a while :lol: :lol: and have always been intrigued about using nitrous. Anybody got any experience with using it on a G60?? Just so you know, I'm not planning on using silly amounts, more like a 50bhp shot with a progressive controller when on wide open throttle. Thinking more in terms of a bit more mid to top end go, but more for charge cooling really. Opinions please?

Cheers Dave, fitted mine in 20mins at lunchtime, and I now have a working drivers door handle again. Yay. Just in case anyone is worried about doing this, if I can, anyone can :lol:

Thanks to Daves16v for sending me out a door handle repair kit so quickly :D

Ooh, those are useful pics thanks. As for the knock sensor, it isn't something I've played with before, and try to be very careful around it as I know it is delicate. Fingers crossed putting the map back to what it was before will cure it...

Noooo, caught another one this morning. 2 mice mean a family :( Looks like the trap will be in there for a while.

I spend far too much time at G-Werks (they are always glad to see the back of me :lol: ) and Darren does most of the work on my car. Fuelling was originally set on an exhaust gas analyser, and the lambda is fine (my AFR is showing he typical beahviour of a narrow band lambda probe). One thing I'm going to rule out next is the tweaked map - Steve from PSD has done my map and we tweaked it slighly last time I was down there. Wondering now if that was a tweak too far :lol: . Fingers crossed...

24 hours into the hunt and I've caught my 1st mouse in my boot. Yay. Relaid the trap, so hopefully if there are any more of the blighters then they'll get it too :snipersmile:

Must be the time of year for it. Opened my boot today and found a load of half eaten nuts tucked down by my amps. Indicative of a wood mouse apparently. Anyway, whatever it is, it now has a nice little mousetrap with raisin on it in the boot waiting for it to reappear :lol:

Put a moustrap in the boot after discovering I had an unwanted tenant :shock: :(

Cheers guys. I was well impressed with the visors. Only one more a pillar, 2 x B's and 2 x C's and the cross piece, and the grab handle and the roof and sunroof to do now - easy :lol: . I'll let you know if I need any more paint :D :D

Tried using the spray paint today pm the sunvisors and a pillar trim. All in all pretty impressed, although it sticks better to the material bit of the sunvisors than the hard plastic bits. I would recommend using plastic primer first on those for anyone else. Just have to do the rest of it now :?

Hi Daves16v, Please can you send me a drivers side repair kit (I've had one of yours before but for the passeger side - looks like it's time for the other one now, doh). Please let me know payment details. Thanks, Jonathan

No, it seems to be day dependant and intermittent. Some days it's juddering, others it's not there. I am vering towards clutch though. According to the receipts it has never been done :shock: and I'm putting 210bhp and similar torque through it now. So fingers crossed it will be done in the next month or so.

Yes 1.7k ohms is very high/lean. At idle. The senders tend to fail to a higher value as the internals degrade. They usually have a date stamp stamped into the white part of the plastic. If it has 09/91 etc stamped into it it may well be time for a new one. That'll be me being a dummy then :oops: I just measured the resistance of the co pot with the engine off. I presume I was meant to be at idle from what you said above. Doh. Looks like I'll have to do that again. However checking the bentley manual that value of mine isn't far off what it should be at 15 degrees, and there is a huge temperature variation (which I would expect for a resistor). I thought you said the resistance was independant of temp Steve?

The later cars had 2 x 2 plugs. The early ones didn't. Hate to say it, but I don't think your reader is going to be much use with the G60 :(

Hmm, this makes interesting reading. My resistance measurement is 1.7k ohms between pins 1 and 3 when cold. This strikes me as being massively high compared to the recommended values above. Any thoughts...

Thanks for that Kev, nice to see it isn't just me then. Yeah, I'll get the thing jacked up at the weekend and give the rears a spin, see how free they are. Know what you mean about them being pants. One of these days I'll do the mk4 conversion, but it's just more money to throw at it :(