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mrbeige

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Everything posted by mrbeige

  1. I didn't even think about that. When I had mine done at Demon Tweeks, they gave me the print out with the invoice, I would have expeced them to do the same...
  2. Not that talented, otherwise I would still have skin on my fingers :lol:
  3. It looks to me as if they haven't done the camber?? If it still pulls to the left dude, take it back. Mine did the first time, so I took it back and got them to re-adjust it...FOC of course.
  4. Picked up my 2e off the Toad-meister at Edition 38, so should start building up the engine as soon as I can lay my hands on a cheap engine stand....
  5. Good lad, is that by hand or are you using mechanical type implements?
  6. Toad. Engine delivered to ED38 as requested, and got a free ass shot as well! :lol: Top Seller!
  7. Well, that does look better! Glad you got her sorted after our aborted effoprt the other night!
  8. Not sure yet, but will give you first dibs on it if you want. :)
  9. Not really no, unless you have a de-cat. I ran for a while without the CAT and it was loads louder. To be fair I'm considering changing the exhuast as I'm not keen on the sound of it, plus since I'm going turbo I think I'll need 2.5" bore instead of 2".
  10. I've got a Magnex on my 2.0l 16v Dave and it was louder than the standard exhaust. When it was first fitted it did catch on the rear beam, but that was because it was fitted by a complete monkey at Demon Tweeks. I adjusted it myself and it was fine afterwards. MY C is lowered on Koni/H&R combo (35mm).
  11. Always fancied one of them Andi. Uber-smooth I should imagine. Are you gonna change it in anyway?
  12. That's very true, but unfortunately I don't have one :( Dunno if they are any good, but netto are doing an electric 800w impact gun for £19.99 LOL Ooooh, for 19.99, it might be worth a punt!
  13. That's very true, but unfortunately I don't have one :(
  14. Quick question regarding oil cooling again, would it be wise to loose the coolant-water cooling and just have a separate oil cooler running from a mocal sandwich plate like this one?....
  15. Just checked ETKA to confirm my thoughts and no they aren't the same they have veyr different part numbers and I believe the difference is the drive for the oil pump is different, i.e. differnet type of cogs design. The toothed belt pulley is the same though.
  16. I'll give that a whirl, otherwise is there a special flywheel locking tool? VW special? Yeah as I said above the oil pump seems noisy and the engine seemed quite 'rattly', before I pulled it apart :lol:
  17. I try not to hang about when doing stuff, although running out of money will be my main reason for slow progress.... As far as how the engine was running....schitt! Very rattly top end, although that could have been the buggered bearing shell?? Also the oil pressure kept dropping after giving it some 'beans' and when I turn the oil pump drive by hand, it is pretty noisy, so I reckon that was buggered too. It also seemed to go down on power if giving it beans for a reasonable amount of time, but that might be the knock sensors retarding the timing, as the wiring for one of the sensors seemed be very brittle and cracked.
  18. I don't see the attraction. They have used the same schitt alloys on all the upgrades. Most of the cas look better as standard, to be honest.
  19. Cheers dude, I'm glad that the front panel is rescuable(sp?)! That pipe comes from the power steering pump, and I'm guessing it is a means to cool the fluid down, although, I can't see it having much effect!
  20. Made some more progress on stripping down the 9a..... Seem to have quite a few nuts and bolts :lol: When I took the oil pump off, it rattled and this fell out.... :shock: Do you reckon that could be the cause of my sheite oil pressure when giving it beans? (10mm spanner there for a bit of scale) Anyway, managed to get this bugger out.... Was struggling to keep the pulley still whilst trying to get the central bolt out, so cunningly wrapped the cam belt around that and the crank pulley, turned it until it locked then managed to undo the bolt! using a bar with a 24mm crankedring spanner on the end of it! How bloody tight was that! Took the intermediate shaft out, and noticed this just behind the pulley...looks like the bearing shell has disintegrated?? Also wanted to know whether this lower front panel is beyond repair, it looks bloody terrible :shock: Close up... Clutch looked in pretty good shape... How the hell do you get these bolts out to get the flywheel off? Can't seem to keep the flywheel stationary to do it. Should I have done this when the engine was in less pieces?
  21. Sorry, but that sentance does make me smile! I'm guessing that you've done that then Kev?
  22. So to clarify, the central bolt (19mm) holds the crank pulley, but not the alternator pulley?
  23. On the Sunday, yes! It'd be rude not to really....
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