H8RRA

...looks like i'm going to stick the leather and alcantara up on ebay.... difficult to part with but even harder to let the leccy recaro's go

As previously stated - i've found it works - can't get up to 80mph in my backlane after i've serviced the car so i'll stick to my method, Kev, rather thatn your 80mph suggestion :wink:

when i open this post, i'm asked to log in to corrado database nl? I cannot log in and therefore can't see the pics???!!! what going on?

in the peter russek book, theres a procedure to test the tappets - most times this procedure seems to resolve any tapping - if not they need replacing. From memory, you warm up the engine and sit at 3500rpm for 3 minutes - strangely this has resolved most tappet noise problems i've had.

i'd nominate the 2 studs that keep the dash board in as the sneakiest - me chrisvr6nos and trippy spent hours trying to remove a dashboard before we noticed those!!!!

its nice to know my family of shortshifts is growing :) -

vr6 all the way - had 5 now. in all honestly have found them easy to maintain and don't really see the argument that valvers are cheaper - never found vr parts expensive. insurance - i pay £300 FC from Priviledge - typically get 30mpg - whatmore do you want - go for the best first, theres no need working your way up with a budget of 4k - i have a lurverly obd2 blue one you could have for that :)

as stated in the original post, the cable is loose at the bonnet catch end - using pliars, jacking up to pull the cable etc... does nothing cos it aint' connected at the catch end. At least one catch cannot be operated with a screwdriver from below and the other (drivers side) is very difficult.

at the moment, it looks like i'll have to butcher the grill :( :( :(

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Any idea's how to open? As the cable is loose, sticking your arm up the drivers side to pull the cable doesn't work. Seriouisly stuck and peeved off

i know the feeling!! - also, it allows you to place orders over the phone :D :D :D :D :D :D - or maybe thats just a liverpool thing what with all the scallys :mrgreen:

any links available for lightened flywheelsguys???

aauuuuhhhhh pplllleeaaaase!!! - a vees a vee, a straights a straight - see your point but its not straight, its a vee, as its name states!!??? Compact ickle vee with ickle angle compared to some but its not straight

oops - just clicked the link and found the prices :oops:

costs anyone??? Has or is a group buy going thru??

15 degs between pistons - of course its a "V" but only a little "V" by comparison to most. All the info and advice i've been given about boring them is as stated. I wouldn't assume - ask the shop - i'd be surprised if they could do it - if they can i want their address!!??

I'd agree with all that the VR is surprisingly easy to work on. Once the inlet manifolds off, its a surprisingly small block.... don't be scared at how complicated it looks - theres nothing to it below. Just built up a 3.1 with Chrisvr6Nos and it was P!$$ easy. Got the timing a tooth out cos its hard to gauge - even when you get it right, the cut-outs on the cams don't line up perfectly horizontal - but this doesn't do any harm anyway and always turn it by hand before starting. We have done a couple of heads now and this complete build and every time the VR has started up in a fraction of a second from complete rebuild and purred to life!!!!!! The latest one - the block had stood for 18 months and the head for 8 months but still it fired into life in a fraction of a second. One tip though - when we did a compression check we had no compression in 2 cylinders and finally worked out it was the hydraulic tappets which had stood for a while and were locked open and kept the valves slightly open thus giving a reading of no compression. Definately get a russek book as they are invaluable and offer good advice on the hydraulic tappets. On other points mentioned above re-reboring - the vr is a "V" and cannot be bored by any old shop as a jig is required for the 15DEG "V" of the cylinders. If you know of a shop that does the VR for £15 a bore, I want to know about it. As far as I'm aware, budget for £250. Vince at Stealth will tell you where to go - can't remember off the top of my head. PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE CHAIN GUIDES COS THEY'RE ALWAYS WORN/BITS SNAPPED OFF ETC. Oops - sorry for shouting that bit. I have lots of spares available after this build inc a 2.8 block - could even offer a rebuild service if you came to the North East :? And finally - wouldn't get GSF head gasket as i've popped mine already :roll: :roll: :roll: Mind you, it is long stroke with a charger but even so, the buggers split in half and the waters pissing our as fast as it can be poured in!! So if you saw a mobile smoke machine travelling at 120+ on the A19 Sunday, it was me :oops: Pics'll be on the board soon but have another head to do first :(

cheers

i knw its on the RAC webiste but i can't find it!!!

got a vr6 peter russek engine manual if that helps - and you've got a VR, that is :wink: - got rebuild data, torque info, head sequence etc - or the bently manual in pdf format on cd - thats quite useful as well...... :wink:

andy who bought my supercharged ren corrado featured in pvw bought c6 svr (C-corrado 6-cylinder S-supercharged VR) for £500 striaght off the dvla site, so very apt for the car

got it - will dig it out when i get home from work

2.0 16v on ebay and its just 20 miles from me - should i buy it - is it worth £1500 M plate 155000 miles?????? Thinking about it for the wife les than 40mins on the auction Anyone been to see it?? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1

has anyone scanned these instructions and can pass them on by email?????????? Can I have a copy????????

i'm buggered then cos i bite me nails!! :oops: even if i had any, they'd be worn to the knuckle cos the amount of spots is unbelievable!!!!!!!!