coolrado

I cant really tell from that pic how far out it is, if it is a tooth width difference then yes, set the timing again using the rear mark on the camshaft pulley and the flywheel.

well they are both right its just the two marks and the cover is the less accurate method but should still get you on the right tooth, you should really be able to see if its a whole tooth out either way. Firstly though i would set it up using the flywheel mark and ignore the lower pulley, as its pretty much impossible for the flywheel to be wrong, just out of interest what crankshaft bolt did you use?

I know it sounds odd but is your spoiler still working?

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it) it looks like your timing is set correctly, the lower pulley mark should be viewed either from the side or in line with the mark, the angle your pic shows it from doesnt give a very good idea of its position. The marks will never line up absolutely perfectly and the few mm difference your pics seem to show shouldn't be a problem, even having the head skimmed will effect the relation between the pulleys, unless they are a whole tooth spacing out it should be ok, although i have driven cars that have been one tooth out and they weren't that bad, just a bit down on power or the exhaust mani was getting too hot. It just seems to me to point to an electrical issue, i know it must be really annoying as you have probably checked every wire already but i just cant see a mechanical issue causing a problem that would dissapear when the WOT switch is pressed.

The other problem is some people line the rear mark up with the top of the cam cover, the rear mark must be lined up with the top of the head when the cover is removed.

as far as i know the two dots on the front of the pulley should line up with the mark on the cover but there is another mark on the back of the pulley which should line up with the top of the head, i allways find it more accurate to use the one on the back of the pulley with a straight edge.

A mate of mine fitted a GSF rad to his Mk 2 16v gti and it kept blowing seals and popping pipes, after a while he discovered the small recirculation pipe at the top of the radiator was actually moulded over inside the radiator and was completely blocked, it was fine after he drilled it out. so it seems they are not the best quality, its always worth checking out local radiator companies as they may have a better one in stock or will be able to make you one up for a decent price.

thanks very much, will order them tomorrow.

Anyone have any idea where these can be bought from seperately or as part of a complete injector seal kit? i very lightly tapped the end of one of my injectors with a spanner as i was tidying up and it has cracked the very brittle pintle cap.

how long have the weitecs been fitted? could they still be under warranty?

not exactly dangerous as such unless in concentration, its not flammable but i would avoid breathing it in, it is a CFC ozone depleting greenhouse gas and your meant to have it recovered by a specialist company by law, they will connect their system to it and drain it off and have it recycled or disposed of safely. although if the system is leaking and your aircon doesnt work chances are there is no gas left in the system I think the original stuff is freon (dichlorodifluoromethane same stuff they used to use for fridges) and they now use something called R134 or something like that which is meant to be safer.

Air con uses gas but there is also a small amount of liquid in the system which keeps it lubricated, it might be worth getting it checked for leaks if it doesnt work, I think you will need to remove the aircon pump and the alternator to get at the waterpump and the pipes that the crackpipe connects to, dont disconnect the aircon pipes though as all the gas will leak out, but the pipes should have enough flex in them to be able to get it out of the way.

is the small belt on the charger still there and has it still got all of its teeth? the first time my charger died it was due to oil leaking from the charger onto the small belt which then fell apart and the internals of the charger where out of sync causing the horrible rattling, luckily it hadn't caused any damage and g-werks did a re-build on it for me and it seemed fine after that.

yeah quite easy, you need to carefully remove the plastic trim that runs along the back of the headlining by pulling it down (may help to get a wide flat screwdriver blade behind it and pop each clip out carefully) then pull the headling down just enough to unplug the aerial cable and unscrew the large nut on the base of the antenna. You will need a soldering iron to bypass the knackered circuit by the way. Remove the screws in the base of the antenna and pull the metal base away from the plastic cone (might be quite stubborn), this should reveal a lump of (probably wet) foam which has the circuit board inside, remove that and connect the shield of the coax cable to the metal base and the centre core to the brass stud inside the plastic cone that connects to the aerial. OR replace the aerial with a cheaper non amplified one.

type of engine might help.

the problem is the vast majority of original antenna base amplifiers are full of water and knackered, the amplifier circuit can be removed and bypassed which usually improves the signal quite a lot and you can run an in-line amplifier instead which are pretty cheap.

That does seem a bit pricey, i only paid £12 for mine last year from VW, I am pretty sure ECP do stock genuine Bosch ones might be worth trying them. Edit: just checked and they are not genuine they are Dansk ones.

try giving them 068903803DX as a part number for the regulator, thats what i used to order mine.

squirting cats that crap on your lawn, keeping panels wet while wet and drying, spraying over the G60 intercooler while on the rolling road, cleaning wheels, waking the missus up in the morning, squirting your mates crotch while out on the lash making it appear that he has pissed himself, detecting faulty coilpacks on a VR, keeping cool on a hot day, the possibilities are endless............i suppose you could allways use it for what it was intended for which is spraying plants :lol:

yeah definately replace the regulator, the alternator should be fine though, the alternator usually produces less power when it fails. I would avoid using it until you replace the regulator as you risk frying the whole electrical sytem if it does it too much.

not sure if you have already checked it but i just had a look at your vids and mine was doing exactly the same last year, it was fine on tickover but as soon as you tried to give it any throttle it would just stutter and backfire into the inlet, on mine it was caused by the closed throttle microswitch being stuck shut (carbon build up), i took it apart and cleaned it all up and it has been fine since.

length of M12 threaded bar and a bag of M12 nuts (not monkey nuts) from B&Q for about £3.50, you can then cut it to length and also use some spacers so you can leave the flywheel on, the clarke 350 engine stand does not give you enough space to leave the flywheel on without using spacers.

these are only £2 in the wrexham branch on introductory offer, i just bought 10 :lol: they seem really well made i was quite surprised.

what model and year is it for?

with the wheels i have it doesnt touch anywhere no matter how low it is set, even with 4 people and luggage in the car.