coolrado
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Everything posted by coolrado
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the outer seal should stay in place without sealant if the screens fitted correctly, but polyurethane adhesive sealant is the best stuff to use, thats what they use to fit the screen with, loctite do one but i cant remember the code, or u-pol tigerseal.
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there is a rear anti roll bar inside the u shaped channel of the rear beam welded at both ends, and it does have a single rubber bush in the middle, all this really does is stop the anti roll bar from vibrating or bouncing and unless its completely knackered or missing its not worth bothering with, its also the same as the mk2 golf bush and is still availiable from vw.
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Its quite common on some cars, my mates scirocco did it on the rear of the engine on the pulley end, his mk2 golf did it and my g60 was starting to leak out towards the edge when the headgasket blew between a waterway and a cylinder.
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yey cheese is in the lead 8)
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I might look into making some looms up, but i wouldn't really be happy making them the same as the previous ones, the relays are a bit too exposed and i have seen the effect of wet relays (i thought my car was being stolen when the headlights turned themselves on at 11pm in the rain :lol: ) i also dont like crimps or any exposed contacts under the bonnet i would probably mount the relays in a box with a water tight gland at the bottom or try and source some genuinely water tight relays and holders, i will look into some options and post up on here if its worth me doing it.
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50 is Corrado K is for Karmann http://www.abvwc.org.uk/vw_vin.htm ah cool 8) Your VIN: WVWZZZ50ZMK011772 Region: Europe [ W ] Manufacturer: Volkswagen [ V ] Car Type: Passenger Car (VW) [ W ] Body Style: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Engine: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Restraint: Filler character: No meaning [ Z ] Model: 1990-95 Corrado [ 50 ] Year: 1991 [ M ] Assembly Plant: Karmann, Osnabruck Germany [ K ] Serial #: 011772
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i think the main problem with putting wolfsburg "TAT" on a corrado is because most of it is exactly that, cheap poor quality tat that wasn't even made by vw and probably not even made in germany, most of the door pins, badges, tax disk holders, ect that you see for sale at the shows is on a par with the ripspeed or max power stick on tat that can be seen on any number of saxo's or nova's in every maccy D's car park up and down the country, if someone has actually fitted a genuine wolfsburg edition badged part to thier corrado i cant really see a problem with it as it would be something a bit rare or unique. porsche wheels are in a different league, they are usually quality parts and do suit many VW's, and most people "in the know" will know what they are so whats the point in re-badging them, its not like the owner is trying to pretend thier corrado is a porsche, im sure most of us on here could buy and a run a porsche if they really wanted one for the amount it costs to keep a corrado on the road. although fake/replica porsche wheels with porsche badges do look a bit tacky sometimes.
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Mine has 50z then MK so what does that mean? is it M or K? its a 91 g60 so the M makes sense but as its got a K as well does that mean its a cut and shut with an 88 model? :lol:
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have seen a few cars with dashes painted different colours or colour matched and it allways looks very cheap and tacky, unless its to change a grey dash to black or vice versa to make it match the seats, it allways reminds me of that hideous Renault 5 GTT from Ali G.
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i have allready tried this with the frame from a seat leon which is the same as the passat one, it only just fits with a bit of alteration to the fixings but when the filter is actually installed it was just a bit too tall and fouls on the scuttle panel, it could probably be fiddled a bit more to fit properly but you can buy a filter which fits over the original intake so i couldnt see the point of altering the leon one any more.
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ah, so the brush/regulator pack will probably be nothing like that then.
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:lol: lol, probably. My car seems to have a life of its own most of the time anyway. Thanks for the suggestion coolrado, I'll check the battery voltage tonight. Is there anyway to find out if it is the alternator/brush pack for sure? yeah if you remove the brush/regulator pack and the brushes only stick out by about 3mm they will be worn out, you only need to remove 2 screws to remove the brush/regulator pack which will look something like this.....
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can you check the voltage at the battery with the engine running and with the engine off, it should be around 12v with the engine off and around 13.5-14v with the engine running if there is no change, the alternator or just the brush pack on the alternator could be worn out, the alternator warning light used to come when revved on my caddy diesel when the brushes went, but im not sure any other lights came on. if the alternator is not charging the battery be carefull doing any night time journeys, as its a diesel it will probably carry on running but you wont have any lights when the battery goes flat.
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if its eating bearings its most likely a bent stub axle, a bent rear beam would be very unlikely to cause noticeable wear on the bearing as they have the weight of the car on them plus cornering forces, so a few degree's of toe in wouldn't have much of an effect on them, stub axles are pretty cheap and easy to change anyway and should really be changed at the same time as the rear bearings for the amount they cost. hitting a bad pothole or clouting a curb is easiliy enough to bend a stub axle, and the stub axle should certainly bend before the beam does as i have seen a mk2 scirroco that had slid sideways into the kerb on ice and it looked like the De-lorean from back to the future when its wheels fold up and it flies :lol: the rear beam was removed and measured and was still straight but the stub axle, brake disk, and wheel had to be replaced.
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there is a DIY mod that can be done to reduce the throw a bit which seems to work much better than the B&M shifters, a few people have removed the B&M kit straight away as they hated the feel of it, I think there was a step by step guide to doing the mod on the canadian corrado club website or you may find it on here with the search, shortening the gear lever shaft and fitting a lower gearknob can help a bit, but obviously any method of shortening the throw is going to increase the effort required to shift. there is also the motorsport style shifter but that requires quite a bit of modification to the interior ect.
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If you just say Renshaws car everyone here will instantly know which one it is :lol: Whats actually wrong with the shift? is it sloppy, knotchy, too long, depending on what the symptoms are it may just be a charactheristic of that particular box or just a badly adjusted linkage.
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This is such a non story, police have always had the power to book you if they believe you are doing anything that is causing you drive badly or not be in full control of the vehicle, people have been booked in the past for changing CD's, eating, smoking, picking their nose, fiddling with sat nav, receiving relief from thier partner :lol: ect ect.
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yep mine has been doing it for ages, i have tried the usual, checking all the earth connections, cleaning every contact on the clocks, making sure my phone is nowhere near the clocks, it does seem to do it when i put my foot on the brakes, when the fan kicks in or when the spoiler lifts so would seem to be related to spikes in the electrical system but it doesnt effect anything else, I might try changing the regulator on the back of the clocks as there is nothing else left to try that i can think of, the problem most people seem to report is just the rev counter bouncing but all of my guages do it.
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ah the wrinkly matt black isnt a POR 15 product its this stuff wrinkle finish and this is the POR 15 engine enamel which is a gloss finish enamel
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I think the POR stuff is a matt wrinkle finish, like the stuff you see on classic cars at shows i have heard good reports about it and its meant to be very long lasting, I have tried a couple of different spray can high temp paints and they have been useless either flaking off or not setting properly.
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"Crap Corrados R Us" part II -Now with new improved Crapness
coolrado replied to diamondblack's topic in General Car Chat
Spencer Tramm's corrado dragster called "Quantum Leap" is nearly all original metal, it has to be to run in the class its in I think the only thing thats fibreglass is the bonnet, which isnt surprising as it has a 555 cubic inch chevy in it which wouldnt even fit under the bulged vr bonnet :lol: even with the old 400 and something cubic inch engine it was still running an 8.7second quarter mile :shock: -
there is no way a piece of pipe 520mm long would reach the ecu so 1M is far more realistic, it would be interesting to know where the figure of 1M came from or was it just measured from an origianal pipe? I am pretty sure the one on mine was the original hose as it was perished and still had the VW tube clamps on the ends and that was 1M long.
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you would be better off getting another corrado and swapping the bits over, from the crumpling on the rear quarter its going to need some serious straightening and probably need to be put on a jig, even after a car has been put on a jig they never feel quite right, whether its psycological i'm not sure, but your better off with something you know is straight.
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A mate of mine had the coupe 20VT coupe in ink black with tan leather, and it was a very nice car to drive, very solid feeling and very quick, until recently when it was rear ended by a new audi cabriolet, the audi needed a new bonnet and grill and the coupe was a write off, the rear body panels are horrendously expensive and all the seams on the rear quarters are brazed together to hide the seams. Two weeks into ownership the cambelt needed changing and although he was told by fiat it was an engine out job a local specialist managed it with the engine in situ and it only took him 4 hours compared to the 8 hours quoted by fiat, he did have plety of problems with sensors, misterious rattling noises that fiat coudnt identify and a leaky turbo manifold which is quite common on them apearently. Oh and it ate front tyres very quickly too :lol:
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Is that stuff sprayable? can it be thinned down?