coolrado

have you tried nipping up the pinch bolt at the base of the lower steering column U/J. My car failed its MOT on what the garage was adamant was a knackered steering rack, causing a slack spot in the steering, the bolt took a whole turn before it was properly tight and sorted the problem out straight away, my rack now has 145k on it and still no slack, i have found the same problem on my caddy van and on two of my friends mk2 golf's. allways worth checking.

Unless you have been to see drag racing in person you just wont understand I just dont understand it when people start slagging this car off, he could have just taken a fibreglass mould of a corrado and run a complete space frame, but the fact most of the bodywork on it is original deserves a bit of respect, but i suppose fake chrome roll cages, pointlessly over stretched tyres, lexarse style lights and other bolt on tat that will most probably just slow a car down seem to impress people more :?

yep photo shopped.

if the revs drop when you pull the pedal back up with your foot you need to try adjusting and lubing the cable, or if the cable still doesnt return back all the way you may need a new throttle cable or rubber grommet that the throttle cable hooks into on the pedal end, the throttle should spring back until it stops when you take your foot off the pedal and there should be a little bit of slack in the cable. Yeah possibly... coulde be gunk in the spring mech on the TB though. I know mine definitely does this, as when you change gear the needle doesn't drop straight away as the gunk on the TB is not allowing the spring to operate properly. My revs used to do this when changing gear as well and after i lubed the cable up it was fine, the spring return tension (at least on the G60 throttle body) should easily overcome the resistance caused by gunk around the mechanism, unless its seriously caked in crap, if it is give it a blast with some engine cleaner or a pressure washer and then soak it in some 3in1 oil. a gunked up dry cable is very difficult to move though and will eventually wear through the sheath and fray or snap.

if the revs drop when you pull the pedal back up with your foot you need to try adjusting and lubing the cable, or if the cable still doesnt return back all the way you may need a new throttle cable or rubber grommet that the throttle cable hooks into on the pedal end, the throttle should spring back until it stops when you take your foot off the pedal and there should be a little bit of slack in the cable.

did the same thing with my BBS RM's a few years ago, I really cant see why people think its that dangerous, as long as the surface you are sanding is spinning away from you there is no risk of you finger snagging, even if you touch the spoke, people do this sort of thing in machine shops and in carpentry (which is a damn site more risky) every day. You get a much more uniform finish than if it was done with a dremmel or mop as there is no risk of consentrating on one spot. The rims on my RM's came out like a mirror (didnt last long after the winter). If someone loses a finger while doing this they are obviously a :censored: moron and they deserve to lose a finger, or any other part of thier anatomy they try poking in thier rim's. :lol:

they do the new golf with a 1.4 compound charged engine (turbo and supercharger) although most of the reviewers found it unrefined and jerky as it switches between the two and they haven't sold many. It's probably down to cost cutting which seems to be responsible for a lot of design decisions on cars nowadays, and modern turbo and especially variable vane turbo's don't really suffer any noticeable lag.

most antifreeze includes corrosion inhibitor as well so it would prevent crevice corrosion inside the strut tube.

lay a damp towel over the dent and gently warm it with an iron on low temperature or a hairdryer.

I got my mk4 rear callipers from a car that only had 10k on the clock, so the seals should have been fine, unfortunately the pillock at the breakers yard used a flame torch on the car next to it and a couple of the sparks hit the outer dust seal on one of the callipers so i had to get the seal kit from vw. they are really easy to rebuild just like the mk2 callipers the only things you need to do is make sure the bore of the cylinder and the outside of the piston including the main seal groove and dust seal groove are clean and free from corrosion (light corrosion can be removed with scotchbright or something similar). make sure you dont damage the piston seal when you fit it (a little brake fluid will help to lube it up) and remember to insert the outside of the dust seal before you insert the piston into the bore then stretch the inner part of the dust seal over the piston (again a little break fluid will help it slide over the piston). then push the piston into the bore but make sure it is inserted squarely, once the piston reaches the screw for the handbrake mech use a piston windback tool or pair of pliers to wind the piston back in (clockwise), make sure the dust seal is seated correctly in the top groove on the piston and that the dust seal isn't crumpled up. then fit and bleed as nomal.

halfords do sell a compatible coolant, its the bright pink stuff which they call OAT coolant (organic acid technology). avoid any of the blue or green ethelyne glycol based coolants, they can cause hoses to go brittle and cause the coolant system to calcify and block up.

I have seen the original vw roof bars sell for over 100quid on ebay, i was looking for some recently but went for a set of mont blanc roof bars instead as i prefer the way they mount to the car, i also have two sets of thule bars that i won for peanuts on ebay at the same time and all they need is the small clamps that are specific to the corrado and audi coupe.

the thermal fuse issue causes the fans to only work on speed 4 as the resistor pack and thermal fuse are bypassed on speed 4, if its not working on speed 1 it will be a switch or resistor pack issue.

Fugly..........looks like a FIAT Bravo with a body kit on it :gag: :pukeright: :pukeright:

When i tried the solid rears, certain bits of the interior would vibrate at different revs, at idle the steering wheel, sunvisors and seats would rattle and you could see them shaking then as i picked the revs up the dash centre console, sunroof, glovebox lid and clocks would vibrate instead, really, really annoying.

I thought only the front mount and rear right engine mounts where oil damped, the gearbox one is just two rubber cones and a plate, at least on all of the 4 cylinder models. i noticed no difference with noise or vibration when i fitted the poly front engine mount but both of the rear mounts caused horrible vibration at idle in the cabin, at higher revs and under load it was fine though, i managed to cope for about a week before i had to remove them and put the standard ones back on again.

there are several thin metal nuts holding the surround from the inside of the boot but you shouldnt need to remove the motor to get at them, just a socket on an extension bar should do it. once the nuts are removed (some of the plastic lugs that the nuts attach to may shear) the top of the surround should lift away a little, then get one of those cheapo retractable craft knives (usually about a quid from B&Q)extend the blade fully to give you more reach and lift the top of the surround away just enough to get the knife behind it and slice away at the strong double sided adhesive foam that holds the bottom edge of the surround to the boot, i have removed 3 of these surrounds like this and havn't damaged any of them.

If you mean actually sitting the foam rear seats on top of the amps they will probably overheat and shut off or fail completely and may even melt the foam, with a false floor they will still have a bit of air circulation and most people running a false floor would add a couple of fans to help with the air circulation, it also entirely depends of the amplifier and the load, i have seen amplifiers being thrashed in free air that you could fry an egg on and others that stay pretty much cold, what amplifiers are they?

having your helmet sucked off at 150mph :shock: :lol: I remember how terrifying 120mph felt in a 1.6 crossflow powered westfield

i once cut up a robin reliant with a chainsaw and an axe, and then disposed of it in the wheelie bin over the period of a couple of months :lol:

Yeah that looks like a walker or bosal aftermarket back box, there is not much point polishing the end of it as it will just be galvanised mild steel so will just rust within a few days. you would probably be better off buying a decent quality chrome or stainless tail pipe trim and just hacking the manky old one off, i think halfrauds sell the trims (you could even get one of the lovely anodised pink girl racer ones they sell) the standard back box for all models has a stainless tip but for some reason most are covered in thick black paint :?

I did the same thing with my old BBS rims, put my van on axle stands, put in 3rd gear and went over them with various grades of wet and dry, it works really well and they ended up with a mirror finish but it is a bit dangerous.

how are they identified as Storms on the V5 ? makes you wonder if people are filling in new V5 applications for non storms and putting storm in to try and pass it off as a storm when they sell it, if so the only way to find out if its a true storm is to contact vw if you are thinking of buying one.

Yeah it would be from one of the previous 3 chargers that failed, but i would have thought the VW dealership would have checked for debris, (Yeah right!) like they didn't change the oil feed line which caused the failures in the first place.

fitted my replacement supercharger and the RSR outlet, not looking forward to doing 300miles below 3.5krpm while it runs in. While I was cleaning all the pipework and intercooler out I found a few chunks of chewed up apex strip in the bottom of the intercooler, which is a bit odd as the charger that just failed didn't have any bits of apex strip missing :?