coolrado

the G60 ECU doesn't put out diagnostic codes, although some ECU manuals (including haynes) say it does, but the pin that is meant to output the codes is not connected, if you have ABS the codes can be read from that but not the engine, the only way i have seen diagnostics being used on a G60 is when multiple connectors where used to connect to different sensors so not actually reading the ECU. are you sure all the HT leads dizzy and coil are ok and its not just a lack of good spark causing the unburned fuel in the cylinders?

are you running an oil cooler?

just swap the front and back tyres evry now and then to even out the wear.

I dont think they light up, it just changes colour depending on the state of the battery.

none of the halfrauds ones i have had or seen where sealed, the main problem is (at least in the chester store) the batteries are supplied empty, and its up to the (usually thick) bloke at halfruds to fill them up, and then put them on charge. the bosch battery i left in the shed for a year was flat when i removed it, so flat infact that it didnt even light up the interior light, i removed it as i got hold of a two month old bosch silver for free so changed it as i was having a problem with the battery going flat (turned out to be a sticky boot light switch). the only way the battery should fail that quickly is if you tried repeatedly starting the car with the battery flat, this usually causes the plates inside the battery to warp and buckle and in extreme cases even touch together, you can usually see this through the fill holes, the plates should be nice and flat, if you try to start a car and the starter only just turns dont even bother to try it again, either bump start it, jump start it or charge the battery.

so far i have seen 5 different halfrauds batteries that did not have enough water/acid in them, some of them where very unevenly filled and one new one that had a completely dry cell (was obviously dead) after topping them up with some deionised water and leaving them on charge they where all fine, allways worth checking when you get a new battery (if the caps are removable) as underfilled cells will greatly reduce the life and efficiency of a battery. i have a 6 year old bosch silver battery from my corrado that was left in the shed for a year without being used, gave it a trickle charge over night and it starts a diesel van (which was meant to have a bigger battery) without fail, even after being left for two months without being started.

are you using a dedicated plastic primer?

there should be a notch on the socket for the chip that lines up with the one on the chip.

i run a 68mm toothed belt kit that i bought from someone on here, and yes they do eat the standard belts far too quickly, i changed to an uprated belt which is more reinforced and meant to be 30% stronger and has so far lasted about 10k miles, the standard one lasted about 5k getting the tension right can be a bit of hastle though, too tight and it just causes drag and will snap, too loose and it makes a horrible rattle everytime you pick the throttle up from idle as it take the slack up, but get it right and the sound it makes is great. i did notice a slight improvement in throttle response but is it worth the asking price, i dont think so. one thing that is worth doing is get a waterpump pulley from an aircon car as this then runs the waterpump from the v-belt that drives the power steering, this means that if your toothed belt does snap you can still limp home without the engine overheating, as long as you have charge in the battery.

my old bond bug and my brothers jago jeep didnt trigger the induction loops as there wasnt enough metal in them :roll: , not so handy when we where trying to get out of a car park which had induction loop triggered exit barriers :lol:

is the passat subframe not the same as the corrado one? the corrado is mostly a mix between golf mk2, mk3 and passat bits and the scrappies around here are full of old passats

take the wheel off and chuck it in a big bucket of water, if you haven't got a big enough bucket, a fish pond or bath should do the trick :lol: and then just look for bubbles, even a slow puncture/leaky valve/leaky rim should show up.

I thought the seats with the vinyl backing where only fitted to really early models, the later ones all have cloth backs, do you know what age car they where removed from?

yeah there should be a green paper gasket between the oil filter/cooler mount and the block, they are only pennies from the stealer.

Nah I think your thinking of this stuff :lol:

really gutted to see that, unfortunately those fuse holders are quite a poor design, as when you remove the fuse the two metal contacts inside can still be pushed in and make contact with each other, all it would take is for it to touch once and it would then weld itself together. if there is a fuse in there and it was too high a rating for the cable used it would also cause that to happen. whenever i have removed my fuse to do work on the car i have always put a small section of rubber tube in the fuse holder to stop the contacts touching.

Looks a bit dodgy to me, the porting looks quite rough, at least from those pictures. I have seen one of the g-werks race spec chargers and the porting looked very smooth and polished nothing like that one. and i dont think i would trust a charger after it had been welded to that extent. also the filler or whatever it is over the inlet just seems odd to me what is it hiding, or has this guy just got half way through a project and then given up? I would steer well clear.

the two dots should be on the front of the pulley and the single dot should be on the back, if yours is the other way around it sounds like yours is on the wrong way. every manual states that and every G60 i have seen has been like that from the factory.

yeah, remove two screws, remove old regulator, fit new regulator, replace screws :lol:

will try and get some pics on the weekend, unless i can find them for sale online.

there is an alternative to the crappy little s shaped clip, most decent mountain bike shops will have alloy cable end guides which are desined for bikes without the guides allready on the frame, they have a slot in the side to slot the centre wire through so you dont need to remove the cable, they can either be clamped or screwed to the bracket and are much stronger, got mine from alf jones cycles in wrexham and it has been fine for over a year.

the standard anti roll bar is inside the rear beam, if you look at the rear of the beam you should see a round steel tube that is welded at either end and has a rubber bush in the middle. the rear beams do flex a bit as thats the way they where designed, an additional rear anti roll bar should improve the handling a bit, but make it too stiff and it will mess up the handling.

if they are the same type of injector (bosch with 4 small discharge holes) they should be the same ones, just ordered 4 of the kits from a local bosch dealer, £2.07 per kit. obviously the only difference for the vr is you would need 6 kits.

the exact same pump spray is also available in wilkinsons stores for £1.75 for the 2L version or £1.45 for the 1L version , only difference is its got a blue top instead of green.

the flywheel can only go on in one possition as the bolts that hold it on are offset, they are also a very snug fit so wont allow any play, so if the marks really dont line up at either end there is something wrong somewhere, if the keyway slot is ok on the crank are you sure the key in the back of the pulley is ok and not twisted at all.