Roger Blassberg

To check if it is an air lock or a coolant level problem, does your heater supply hot air properly and is the coolant level correct in the header tank? If not I would disconnect the top hose from the radiator and the cap from the header, then pour coolant into the hose until it runs out, reconnect and then top up the header. It could well be an electrical fault as RW1 says; you may have disturbed a wire when doing the thermostat job. Best wishes RB

The light is not a temperature sensor, but simply a level indicator in the header tank. It sounds as though you have an air lock in the cooling system which is causing all sorts of spurious readings/signals. When you refilled the system after the thermostat change, did you disconnect the top hose from the radiator end pour the coolant in through it into the block; if you just connect it all together and pour coolant directly into the header tank you risk getting air trapped in the system. Best wishes RB

Please decipher BMC CDA, with any details of spec., advantage/disadvantage. Thanks Best wishes RB

OK, this is based on the one and only use so far, brand new kit with fresh filters etc., not in direct sunshine (which would have been the worst scenario for quick-drying and watermarking). It left no marks at all. There was next to no wax left on the paintwork before washing it, so I cannot judge the claim that it will not be removed by the shampoo. It has subsequently been fully waxed with Zymol, (what a delicious smell that stuff has !!) so the next wash will be the test of that claim. Incidentally, I cleaned off all of the black trim with Meguers Detailing Cleaner; that seems to work well too. Quote from Mrs B., "How much longer are you going to spend cleaning that bl**dy car??" Quote from me, (expletive, deleted). Best wishes RB

Dark blue/black 16V in the Waitrose carpark in the centre of Sheffield, about 13h. Saturday 9th April. M*** VET. Left a note with this forum's address - anyone ?? Best wishes RB

I have tried a new (to me at least) cleaning gadget called the Flash system for washing the paintwork. Basically, you fill the thing with shampoo and connect it to the garden hosepipe. It also incorporates a filter for the rinsing water which (allegedly) de-ionises it and stops hard water from leaving drying marks. It saves having to leather the rinsing water off. The claim is that the shampoo does not take the wax treatment off of the paint. I live in a hard water area, and certainly have had problems in the past with limescale marks on the paint if I haven't leathered it off. It does exactly what it says on the box - very convenient. £20 from Halfords,etc., £4 for shampoo refills and £5 for filter refills, each enough for at least 10 washes. Best wishes RB

The side trim, (rubbing strip) section in front of the driver's door was loose whilst I was waxing the paintwork, so I pulld it off completely to save losing it. The adhesive strips are still stuck fast to the wing. Does anyone have a recommendation on how to remove these without damaging the paint, and on what to use to fix the trim back on? Best wishes RB

Yes, my reference to a "test case" was a mis-interpretation of the published letter for which I apologise. The outcome is the same, though. The common law right does not need further back-up by case law; Daily Telegraph has responded to me today, confirming this. The moral of the story is this; dig your heels in and insist on getting your car fully repaired no matter what the insurance company wants to do. Get a Solicitor and take a civil action against the 3rd party. Best wishes RB (PS I am not a Solicitor!!)

It was reported in last Saturday's Daily Torygraph motoring letters page. I intend to contact them to get just such a reference, but if you beat me to it let us know......... Best wishes RB

Individualistic body shape, traditional VW durability, relatively (!) cheap parts, high owner loyalty, rarity, performance. Best wishes RB

According to a report of a recent test case, it seems that, if your car is damaged by a third party in an accident and it is in danger of being written off by either party's insurer, against your wishes, you can sue the third party for the full cost of restoration to the pre-accident condition? This is irrespective of the cost of the repair or the market value of the car; you apparently have an absolute right to choose to have full restoration to the status quo ante (that is yer actual Latin for "what existed before") if you can prove liability. In other words, we don't have to accept high-handed treatment from insurers who are simply interested in closing their files with as little effort as possible. It is well worth getting legal assistance with your insurance - it costs next to nothing comparatively speaking. Then you can employ a solicitor to take this up for you if the circumstances unfortunately arise. I hope this will save a lot of us from losing our "pride and joy", in relatively minor accidents. I will try to get more details and will pass them on. Best wishes RB

The Independent newspaper is asking for nominations for 10 "Practical Classics", for next Tuesday's motoring supplement. Send your email, with a few choice words of justification, to; mailto:[email protected] Best wishes RB

Yes that was me. Best wishes RB

Did you use G12 or G12+ ? If you used G12 and mixed it with any residual G11, you may get clogged cooling system because they don't like each other. G12+ is compatible with either G11 or G12. My 16V Passat (ABF) runs at about 85 deg water and low 90s oil, except when really hammered - for instance the oil temp may go to 110 on very long mountain passes with the family and a full holiday load on board. Otherwise it runs much much cooler than the VR. I nearly died when I first got the C and saw the oil temperatures, but apparantly it is quite normal.......... Best wishes RB

What is the long-term mpg recorded on memory 2 of the MFA? Unless it has been zeroed or the battery has been disconnected, it will do an integration of the last several thousand miles. 24 mpg averaged over 600miles in the conditions you describe, (probably in 3rd/4th gears, accelerating and braking), doesn't sound too bad to me. Best wishes RB

First things first. Are you basing your fuel consumption concerns on the MFA readings or on a brim-to-brim measurement of miles covered ? Really pussy-footing around, you should get 30-ish, perhaps more on consistent 5th gear, low revs roads. My daily 20 mile each way commute between outer London and Herts gives about 26mpg with stop-start traffic and some dual carriageway. Before you go looking for problems, check your real mpg over several tanks full (if you haven't already). A faulty O2 (lambda) sensor, or its wiring, will mess up your fuel consumption, but will almost certainly give rough running and a very lumpy/unsustainable idle, and sooty plugs, to go with it. A quick VAG-COM or VAG 1551 scan will give a fault reading. It may also be the Mass Air Flow meter playing up; if the idle gets very significantly worse when you disconnect the MAF, it is probably OK. The MAF is between the air filter box and the throttle body and has a multi-connector on it. Best wishes RB

You need a spline tool of the correct size - it's like an Allen key, but has 12 points. You can buy a set of them to fit into a 10mm socket from Halfords etc (do not use a hexagonal Allen key or you will damage the recess in the bolt head). There are 6 bolts per cv joint where they bolt onto the output flange of the diff. Check that they are all fully tightened. If it's not that, maybe there is a broken bush somewhere in the suspension or an anti-roll bar drop link may have given up the unequal struggle. Best wishes RB Best wishes RB

OK, maybe a cv joint, especially an inner one, I have known bolts to work loose. Or maybe loose wheel bolts............

Try the engine mountings as a first guess - especially the front one. Test it by lifting the bonnet, putting on the handbrake hard, engaging first gear and gradually letting the clutch in - if the front of the engine moves very much, your front mount is bu@@ered. It's a very common problem and quite easily fixed. Best wishes RB

The figure you refer to is most likely for the front wheel bearing. The rears are taper rollers and must not be done up tight or they will be wrecked in no time at all. Do the nut up until the washer between it and the bearing can just be moved sideways by a screwdriver pushed against it without levering it against the hub, then put the locking cap on to line up with the hole in the stub axle and put in the split pin. After a few hundred miles, check it again because the bearing may settle slightly. Best wishes RB

It's a lot easier if you take the air filter box and trunking off. Yes, it's much the same for a/c belts. Kev, he seems to want details of replacing the tensioner itself, so I think you need to go further with your teach-in. I assume it's just undoing a few more bolts. Best wishes RB

What do people recommend to clean and maintain leather upholstery? Mine is in good condition but a bit grubby and lacking in suppleness (and so is my upholstery..........) Best wishes RB

You need an a source of compressed air and an adapter that screws into the sparkplug hole to pressurise the combustion chamber and keep the valve on its seat whilst the spring is compressed to release the collets. The spring can then be removed and the seal replaced. The adapter is widely available from workshop suppliers. Best wishes RB

The way that the mirrors are adjusted is by motor-driven plastic worm and gear drives behind the glass, and sometimes these can jam. The motors may be trying to turn the worm against a jammed or misaligned mechanism. If you, *very carefully*, prise the mirrors out of the shells, you will see how it all works and maybe you can effect a repair. Sometimes I have had this problem with my Passat; if you press reasonably hard on the edges of the mirror glass, it will move and jump the adjusters; thereafter the electric adjustment works again. It sounds (and is) brutal, but it seems to work. Best wishes RB

My cream leather electric heated Recaros have the logo on the backrest, so it seems not to be unusual. Another one for your tally, Dinkus. Best wishes RB