RS VR6

Another one for RS's. :D I like these too, Oettinger RE.

Wheres that Furkz guy? I hear he has a clean one. :)

A blowoff valve normally is open when the engine is under vaccum(idle/ partial throttle). It closes then the car is under boost.

Are you talking blowoff valve or wastegate? They are two different parts, that do two different things.

Its like anything else that accumulates wear as it ages. If you drive like a normal human being, the V9 should last you a good long time before servicing. If you redline the crap out of the motor, run it up to max boost everytime you step on it...well...the results would be self explanitory. I've got over 40k on my V9...no problems that I can see. Its like asking "how long would my clutch last"?

If you want something a little more civilized...you can upgrade to the TT/R32 control arm bushings. If you do a full poly bushing kit...meaning control arm bushings, subframe bushings, etc...you will feel everything. It will give you more crisp/responsive handling...the trade off will be your comfort. If you combine it with the engine mounts...forget it...it'll jiggle your teeth out.

You sure its not a Photoshop? It says "GTI" on the grill. The "new" Corrado is going to be called the Scirocco. Its become a hatch...they might as well call it a Golf. http://www.vwvortex.com/artman/publish/ ... 1825.shtml

I would check the blue coolant temp sensor. When that goes bad...the car will buck and hesitate...and sometimes stall the car out. Its located on the thermostat housing.

Does it happen right away or does the engine have to warm up? Do you have another ISV to test with?

Go here. I know the member "dragonfli_x" has done the rebuild himself. http://www.vf-unplugged.net/forums/

What I did to clear my ECU was to: 1. Disconnect the battery 2. Touch the termials at the end of the cables together for ten seconds. This will completely discharge the capacitors.

Vortech charges somewhere 1k usd for a complete rebuild. This guy charges 450 for a rebuild. It may even be worth it for you to ship across the pond. http://www.superchargerrebuilds.com/listings.htm If you can do it yourself...he charges 245 for the bearings and seals. "VORTECH V-1, V-2, V-5, V-7, V-9, etc. rebuild kit, 2 input shaft and 2 ABEC-7 (45K RPM) precision thrust output shaft bearings and 2 shaft oil seals"

Probably won't fit. Friend of mine had 12mm spacers made so that he'll clear his stock VR6 calipers.

Without the ISV muffler, you will hear a loud hissing sound from the engine. Its super loud from a cold start. I just ended up putting mine back on.

I would get those wires sorted out. It looks like they can be a potential future nightmare. Its possible that it may be related to the spagetti mess under your dash.

You may have an exposed wire and its grounding itself causing a surge and blowing the fuse. I would try and trace the wire to see if there is any exposed wire.

I had a set of Recaro SRD's ( they got replaced by the Speed) and the thigh bolster rubbed against the center console. Also make sure the seat brackets that you use is nice and low. Most of the Corrado seat brackets are mk2 ones...they sit really high.

The CPS code can also be triggered by a bad CPS (cam position sensor) trigger wheel. The trigger wheel attatches to the cam gear and sends the signal to the CPS. I had this happen to me after my cam install. I was getting a CPS code. Checked the timing and CPS sensor itself to no avail. A friend suggested the CPS trigger wheel...viola! That solved my problem.

Sorry...didn't mean to confuse you. It was aimed towards the OP. I think that the VGi is more of a "purpose" part. If torque is what your looking for, the VGi is a bargain compared to boring or stroking your engine. Like I mentioned earlier...the VGi gave me a much needed kick in torque from 2500 to 4k. Fifth gear acceleration picks up so much faster. My 70 to 100 is :shock: now...especially with the Schrick 260/264.

Your right...I'll probably kick myself later if I do. What strut bar is that? Looks like a very good fit. Did you need to move the header tank or did it just go straight on? Its a Weichers bar made for a VR6 Corrado, I didn't have to modify anything. I know on the Corrado there are different bars for the VR, 16v, G60. Maybe use a Corrado VR6 bar on the Mk2 to clear the throttle body?

205 40 16 on 16x7.5

Yep...but the extra flow up top may be worth it. I just installed a pair of Schrick 260/264 cams...the modded intake will flow more air up top for the cams. The VGi flows about the same up top as the stock manifold.

The mk4 12v intake also uses a drive by wire throttle body. It hasn't proven to be a popular mod in the states, due to the reasons that were stated by cheesewire. A popular mod here is to gut the internals on our 2.8 intakes to be like your 2.9 ABV manifolds. We get 2.9's for sale here every once in a while...but the problem with the 2.9's is that they are not tapped for the EGR. Pricewise...its cheaper to mod the 2.8 than buy an actual 2.9 intake. I'm actually thinking of selling my Schrick for a modified 2.8 manifold. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2996470

I noticed a difference immediately after driving. There is a very noticeable difference from 2.5 to 4k. I had no issues with fitting my Schrick. The strut bar fit fine and I don't see why you had to move the fan foreward...unless the car has been in a previous crash.

Nope. The project has been long abandoned. The front and rear fenders have been removed and sold.