_Matt_

What are you guys using for the cleaning process? I've use a steam cleaner but not too much around the drain holes as don't want too much moisture in places it shouldn't go. Wondering if there is an "easier" way.

Looks great. Where do you get this done and assume you need to drop off in person?

ahh Gravitex is good - I found with either a brush or the air compressor & schultz I was able to get something that resembled factory. I use epoxy primer on the area before applying gravitex if it was a repair. If I had not given my car the dinitrol 4941 treatment prior to making some repairs I would have painted the gravitex to the factory colour I think but instead I carried on with the dinitrol over the top as an extra layer of waterproofing protection. It does mean my white car is now black underneath but I haven't gone really thick with it so you can still see all the joins under there. I've also not put it on the rear beam or subframe although you could do but just thought it might look a bit tacky. I'm giving Lanoguard a try this year as annual top of top product - it's clear in colour.

What Dinitrol products are you using? I used Dinitrol 4941 in black under mine with a layer of wax (3351 i think it is) as primer layer. I did it with an aircompressor with their schultz cans. I didn't realise they had a stonechip factory style product. I used Gravitex as the stonechip layer on mine with the air compressor but it isn't rubberised.

Hi mate, I'm interested in Power Steering Pump Bracket (if no cracks on the mounting points assume not!) 280mm Brembo Max Discs and G60 Brembo Pads I'll PM ya Matt

They are doing ET23 and ET38 - possibly an adapter option to enable 5 stud?

Looking good Ben 🙂. However like you I have only done about 100 miles on the car since fitting. I only went for my tyre choice because it was recommended by my local garage. I think your Dunlops are a better tyre and disappointly mine don't have a rim protector.

I am sure the owner of that £25k will be sorely disappointed with their purchase once it turns up, not only have they paid way over normal money in todays climate becuase i suspect they looked at the odo and closed their eyes at everything else_ + £1200-1400 to source the original interior and plastics + £120 for creams carpets +£250 for headlining retrim +£500 to find the original wheels and new tyres in refurbed condition +£2000 of bodywork on what I can see alone +£1500 in mechanical items such as bushes, brake lines and whatever else needs refreshing on a seldom used 25 year old car (couldn't see in the history anything of the sort had been done) OK the interior items I listed above aren't strictly necessary but the whole point of a low mileage special edition being valuable is that it is original.

Good work. I bought some Hekos over the summer but am yet to fit - easy job?

ha - I bet they will be having a disaster recovery review after this event. Just goes to show you can never be too big to learn.

Yeah I didn't really understand the problem - was it just a case of someone plugging their charger in to the server port 😄

30 mins out right now - how people must be loosing their minds. At least we have the forum to continue our car content 😄

Interesting RE the Ford Ranger 3.2 seems we all know at least one that has gone pop - there was one in the garage (friend of the garage owner) having a new engine when I was picking up my daily LR Discovery (also known for snapping cranks - PSA developed unit). He said he had fitted a few of them now. Does seem the more technical the engines are getting it's not the electricals killing them but mechanical failure instead.

Yes good call Dox, I'm interested too.

Are our bearings 72mm in diameter?

Hi, Thinking ahead to a winter job - my corrado squeaks on the front axle when driving. It squeaks like a little mouse and that goes when the brake is applied. The car has spent many months being worked on - can the bearings dry out or something? I've not worked on the bearings before but see these ones need to be pressed in. There is no play in the wheel on the standard checks and no noise spinning by hand. The brake calipers have been refurb'd. Any other thoughts on what it might be? Cheers

Haha Keyo good looking boy though. Nice seats but a bit rich with the damage - isn't that material really hard to find as well?

Me too cressa I'd like a nugget but really any colour will do me as long as it has leather interior (or recaros but that might be pushing the boat out too far). I don't really want one that needs the full works like my old mk2 but would consider small amounts of welding and mechanical work such as a blown charger since I am not that far from Jabba but am looking for something with a good overall body. I keep looking at trying another car like an old merc or bmw but circle back to VW. I've not had an old 80s/90s boosted car before either.

Throwing some feelers out there. I want a G60 in my life. Must have leather, don't mind on colour or mileage. Preferably MOT'd but let me know if you have something that fits the bill. Would consider a mechanical project but don't want a really rusty one... Cheers Matt

Ah i saw your corrado pop up on my feed on instagram. Panelkraft are not too far from me (Arlesey aren't they rather than Stevenage?). They certainly do a good job from the pics!

Nice find on the parts. I had a similar problem with cars nose to tail and found it a pain when I had 3 lined up and wanted the back one out. Eventually your Corrado may have to come out of the garage to enable the mk2 to sit in bits for restoration ... My corrado lives under the carport attached to my garage ironic as I built the garage for the Corrado but need a workspace for the project car.

I have put 95RON in mine in the past but it felt flatter vs Premium stuff. Premium also gives consistently more MPGs so factoring that in it's not that much more money.

Welcome and good to hear of a 1 owner car. Let us know the story of the car over those years - any major works or fun times 🙂 ?

You could bridge your fuel pump relay (167 or 67) or swap relay 109 into it's slot to constantly run your fuel pump on ignition. I have a relay 100 as a spare as it does the same thing - bridges the contacts so the pump runs constantly. Connect a fuel hose to your lift pump exit and drain the tank. Disconnect your underbody one so it doesn't run dry.

My 16v (9a) project wasn't running as smooth when i saw it last week (it's stored away from home at the inlaws). My in tank fuel pump was dying (noisey) and evenutally failed completely - might be worth checking on yours. My symptons were a rough idle and a bit of black smoke on the exhaust. My fuel is also old - 3 years i'd say. I had not realised but you're meant to replace both fuel pumps when one fails as the other drags the good one down to failure. I had replaced the underbody one with a new bosch unit last year.