_Matt_

Different seller? Must be the scrap marker right. Shame the first seller wasn't so honest. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Congrats and well worth doing. You have to protect your investment as best as you can. I'll be doing the same job and aiming to provide a nice tot up of the costs and receipts to my insurer too. Its great to get decent agreed values for the corrado community. Even non agreed value cars will bump up as the rules and algorithms compute in the background. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks. Yeah they are the stock alloys for the late car. Although I am an OEM man I dont think i like them much, maybe they will grow on me as generally I like 5 spokes and like wheels that are easy to clean. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Haha good effort - I too would get rid of the step to keep the car safe. In fact I would happily model my house around the cars! Car looks to be running well and oil temp is good.

Yay - we are up and running. I took the time to tidy up all the wires, ensured splices were covered and then I used that fabric type tape to wrap the wires up tidy. I have 3 issues to resolve... 1. I had a casulty in the fuel line going from accumulator to filter (the smaller lengthed one - believe to be PN 535 201 218 A - the black plastic shrink to fit pipe split. I have used some similar ish clear pipe my father in law has for his tractors to get it running but it seems to leak. Does anyone know of any options to buy replacements? Heritage do this but I'd rather not spend 85 quid on pipes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Line-Kit-K-Jetronic-Fuel-Filter-to-Accumulator-Stainless-Steel/392370035642?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D33aba946907c435a8867d21042a272a7%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D372721072798%26itm%3D392370035642%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 2. TI am really struggling remounting the underbody pump unit to the car. I've bent the metal clips that locate around the rubbers to a 90 degree angle thinking I'd bend them back into place once pump assembly is mounted but struggling to get the clips bent over the thread and bolt on top. Is there a better way!? 3. And lastly my fuel and coolant gauge doesn't work. I dont know if they ever worked or if it's something I disconnected when sorting wires out. I did see the fuel gauge reading more than full whilst messing about getting the pumps to work. Does anyone know which colour wires relate in the fuse box area, if any at all? The rest of the dash and electrics (spoiler, lights etc) are working well. Here's a couple of vids of the car. Headphones work best!

Less than £300 Fen. Can you Sorn your cars when not in use over there to save some money? Probs won't work for you as you use your year round right? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Todays work was pretty good. Put all the wiring back including a good tidy up and protection of wires with that hessian tape stuff, re-tested the the pump wiring at the fuse box (relay, fuse and a wire out the back) and at both pumps and we're getting 12.5volts with a jumper in relay 12/167 - yay. But no fuel getting to the fuel filter. Took the swirl pot and pump assembly off the car and loads of fuel spilt later I stripped the lot down. The general condition of the unit is pretty good and no cracks but on testing the pump after stripping it out I could see it is seized on testing. I did a few things to try and free it including a hammer and pulsating with 12v from an external battery but alas it would not go. So for the bargain price of £179 I'm picking up a new Bosch one tomorrow from ECP Carmarthen. I know I could have got it for about £120 off of the internet, or cheaper with a pattern part but had bad luck stuff like that in the past and time is of the essence as i want to see this car running whilst I am here at my inlaws. Before I came in I checked everything was working - lights, spolier, sunroof etc and all good. I wonder what other problems it might throw up for me tomorrow 👨‍🔬. Would love to get it out of the barn under its own steam for a good wash.

Nice one and every cloud as a silver lining they say! Interested to hear/see more on the rust proofing. Those alfas are prone to rust - has yours been protected? I spray wax oil or equivalent into my cavities (oh err). Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks Sean :) Well we've had an interesting day. I decided I'd strip the alarm system out as figured it would be easier to trouble shoot without it. It was hacked about anyway so no great loss (except remote locking). I havent done this level of work before so rang around a couple of "highly rated" garages in the local area and got told to basically Foxtrot Oscar. So, over to me then. I have spent hours researching and learning up to this point so decided to jump in and tackle it wire by wire. What did I find? Well apart from a load of cuts in places where there were no splices the fuel electrical wire had been cut clean off from behind the relay box. A black wire had been joined onto the other side of the fuel cable and stuffed into the fuel relay 167. All fixed back together now but still need to tidy wires nicely. Luckily everything works.. including now the radio... but.... still not getting more than 10v to the intank pump. I am now seeing voltage to the underbody pump on cranking but what started as 12v there has dropped to 10v and now I am seeing nothing at either pump. Vince kindly gave me a few pointers this evening and confirmed 10v wasn't enough but it should pump (just not that well). Some more testing to do tomorrow- I need to jump the fuel relay and test for voltage at the fuse box. I have bought a replacement fuel loom this evening from Chris F as I believe there is some resistance in the loom causing the issues im seeing. Tomorrow I will strip the car further and inspect the wires. So two steps forward and 1 step back. I've learnt a lot about wiring today though. Such a shame some garages take little care in doing things properly. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks ABV and same to you - yours looks great. Keep the updates coming. It is a small world indeed! I have a 16v to get my teeth into now just popped a thread up on it. I will be keeping my white one though! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Oh and I am sure everyone will be pleased to know both the sunroof and spoiler operate! Sunroof is a little rough in operation so will strip it down and rebuild... handy as I've just rebuilt the one from my white one and have 2 spare sunroof mechs for parts. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi and thanks for posting - it's nice to hear from the previous owners :). I am still awaiting the v5 from Swansea so not sure how many owners, I think i might be the 6th. The chap I had it off (Max on here) had it since 2006 ish I believe. I do plan to keep it in standard form, with a few tasteful upgrades, no mad stance rubbish here :). My other corrado is the sort of standard I like and this is certainly a lovely solid car to bring back up to great condition. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

I dont think either of those options are known for being comfortable. If you dont want to spend too much you are best going for a damper and spring combo (bilstein b4 and eibach is very reasonable) which will be better in the long run. AP are made by the same company that makes KW but the shocks are inferior and they aren't stainless. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Brilliant. Just been catching up on your thread and was disheartened to see the rust - why do some corrados rust so much more than others. Pleased to see you got the work done. If it was the 800 quid you mentioned then that is not a bad deal. Painting is expensive and if you get to the point where you don't feel you can do it at least you have stripped the car saving you a great deal of labour at a bodyshop. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Looking ahead to plans for the car - I do like OEM or OEM plus so once it is running under its own power and MOTd ill give it a good service and timing belt change (last one done 1000 miles ago but also 6 years ago). I'm on the look out for a classic green door and will get Gary at TopGunz paintshop to blend the door, fix the drain lips on the rear arches and scab on the rear. Will also get him to do the bumpers. I'm not a fan of the wheels on the car so will seek out the other oem options- Estroils or BBS RZ. Its had new shocks on the rear but will fit some billy B4s up front and probably eibach springs like the white one. Engine wise - I'm planning on fitting a KR inlet cam and sending the car up to Stealth for fine tuning. Drivers seat - fabric is great but side bolsters need replacing, fortunately i have an immaculate passenger seat in my shed I can harvest the bolsters. And thats it. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi everyone Rather than confuse my other readers ride thread ill start a new thread for the recent addition to the fleet. Possible mid life crisis since I have a mk2 golf project to get cracking on but I do love the Corrado and a project. This car has been owned by no less than 3 forum members. Lots of history, completely original. Interestingly it was exported to Switzerland in 2004 and back again in circa 2005. Quite low miles - 86700 I think it says. Body is tidy - a few scabs to sort (needs a new door, rear arch drain lips and a 5 pence scab on the boot). Fortunately I know a great bodyshop after having the white one sorted. So why is it a project? Well it has sat for a couple of years as it had a running issue thought to be resolved, bonnet seized, boot seized and it had began to leak water in the cabin. It does get difficult to keep these cars going when you don't have the time or space so I was lucky enough to be able to step in a save this one. Fast forward to today and ive fixed the the boot and bonnet. The leak was blocked rear sunroof drain. I've spent the last couple of days figuring out why it won't start - have a separate thread in the tech section... ... basically no voltage is getting to the fuel pumps. The alarm wiring is a bit botched from previous garages doing whatever they do to try and repair stuff- cut wires, non covered joins and a wire stuffed into the fuel relay. I havent got to the bottom of the wiring but think i might outsource to an expert and just get the alarm system removed and back to stock wiring. I also left my wiring stuff at home. Some pictures below and many more updates to come. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Ohh I like mudflaps, not thought about it for the corrados though. Good find. Shrick will be nice, I saw Keyos car the other day in the flesh and it certainly sets the engine bay apart from the others. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Cheers for thinking of me :) missed it but it was a passenger door anyway (need the other) Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Hi Guys, Looking for some help to get my 2.0 16v Corrado up and running. I am learning as I go on the fuel system on this car. Car cranks, good spark but no fuel making its way to the fuel measuring unit in the engine bay. Relay 167 replaced and clicks, the fuel measuring thing clicks multiple times on crank. The wiring looks a bit of a mess around the alarm system (uncovered wires and connections) and there is a jumper cable hard wired into relay 167. The immobiliser has been bypassed previously but the alarm system is operational. Im considering removing the alarm system. The in tank pump was not working off of ignition but I am seeing 10v on ignition at the connector. It seems to work intermittently - Q - shouldnt this be 12v and not 10v here on ignition? I have removed and tested the pump with a hobby 12v battery and it is good and pumps fuel. The accumulator and pump under the body makes no noise and no voltage is measured from the connector on ignition - is that right or wrong on ignition? On disconnecting the fuel filter there was lots of fuel but on running the intank pump on the external battery no fuel was passing through the accumulator/under body pump. Is that right/wrong? So to conclude I'm not sure if what I am seeing at the intank pump is right (10 not 12v) and am not sure if the accumlator should be seeing voltage on ignition? The wiring although separate I think might be related if the voltage readings on the pumps isn't right. Im not sure what that jumper style wire on relay 167 is all about. What else should I do next? On typing this I think i need to get the multimeter on relay 167 and fuse 18 (not blown - 20 amp fuse) to check voltage here to correlate what I am seekng at the intank pump. Cheers for any help! Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Good effort ABV. Like the cabin filter - nice addition and will stop debris falling in. I've noticed others have popped some tights over the mesh. Where abouts are you from Canada (saw on another thread you mentioned)? I always thought you were UK based. I know it's a big ol country but small world and all that - my Dad and half brothers (x3) live out there - Sault Sainte Marie. Prior to that they lived in White Rock, Vancouver/Surrey District.

Just catching up and a bit late to the party - fantastic news you've got her up and running and MOT'd but sorry to hear of the stress at the end. I can relate and don't think I'd have slept a wink knowing other cars were moving about next to it. I'm glad all turned out well. With regards to what is next... well you've got to enjoy it! Maybe get another project if funds and space allow? Having 2 or 3 things to tinker with will keep you busy as I gather like me you love a project and by the time you've finished the others you''ll have the odd job to do on the Corrado to keep it sweet. This is what I've done - Corrado 16v mini project and a Mk2 Golf GTI 8v full resto. I couldn't sell my white one after all the effort to date. Besides I need to source some cloth recaros like yours for the white before it is done anyway 🙂

A dog of a Corrado for sure. I hate the term "barn find" being used to imply a positive selling point and I also hate it being used when the car clearly hasn't been stored in a barn. That car has lived out in all weathers hence the pink paint and moss and crap all over it.

Cheers Cressa. So I tried a different tact with Eibach and asked if their pro kit springs were more or less stiff than the 325/230 above They replied that their springs were "less stiff" So now we know, would have liked numbers but thats good enough for me. I'll be getting my car back this week so will be able to refimiliarise myself after a 7 month break. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

And just for completeness - H&Rs email Hello, Thank you for your e-mail. The spring rate of the front axle is 44 N/m. The spring rate of the rear axle is 27 N/m. If you have further questions, you can contact me. Mit freundlichen Grüßen / best regards Dana-Sophie Henke Verkauf / Sales H&R Spezialfedern GmbH & Co. KG Elsper Straße 36 57368 Lennestadt / Trockenbrück T: +49 2721 / 9260-264 F: +49 2721 / 10708 E: [email protected] www.h-r.com