Baz2004

I thought that before alright does anyone know the part number on that switch for the 1.8 16V?

My 1.8 16V has started to idle above 1200 when warm recently. It starts from cold fine idling around 1000rpm but when in traffic and warm it idles high. I have recently replaced the ISV for different reasons (cutting out at low speed) and I have also removed the front heat shield as it was rattling and annoying the crap put of me. I also put in a mocal cooler recently. I haven’t tried adjusting the throttle body yet but I figure it may not make a huge difference as it idles well when cold. I wouldn’t say my temps are high either when it happens 98-100 oil and 80-85 water. It seems to revert back to 1000ish when driven on the mororway/open road but I cant say I’ve noticed it in the past idling high in traffic. I also replaced the idle stabilisation switch attached to the head when it this was disconnected it ran over 3000 rpm when idle! Would removing the front heat shield cause this to happen?

9a was that the late 2.0 16V corrado engine?

What alternators fit the early 16Vs? Does anyone know if the late VW 90 amp alternator fits the 16V corrado? What about the 70 amp ones? Getting noise from my alternator sounds like the bushes are on the way out.

Ill give it a go and see how I get on. At less than half the price Ill take the risk in getting them on.

The cambers were out on the front of mine at the weekend after 4 wheel alignment !! Got a rubbing noise from the front left, took a look at the tire and it had some wear on the inside made a slight adjustment to the camber and seemed to solve it. If its the rear marking the noise it might be the bushes?

The main reason Im thinking of poly bushes is for the easy of fitting. I’ve heard the OEM rear buses are a bitch to fit. If they are even half as bad to fit as take out them poly is a better bet. I might give the OEM route a go since I have an axel sitting in the shed.

Anyone know of a good insurance company that does partial driving policies or limited miles policies? Admin: Edited subject to be a little more specific than 'Insurance' in the 'Insurance' section - was hardly inspiring! ;)

I need to fit a new rear axel to my 16V for the MOT (rust etc on pre-inspection) Ill need to replace the rear bushes when im at it. Are the polyflex bushes as good as they are made out to be? Considering the price of them are they that much better than other poly bushes? Any recommendations on alternative poly bushes or places to get a poly bush rear set?

Is it dropped at all? how are your tires any signs of rubbing?

yeah ill see how it goes im putting in a mocal cooler next week so I might pick up a gearbox mount when im in GSF getting coolant.

I have an "up rated" one in the front near the starter not sure if it made much difference its not a solid one just a TDi or whatever VW mrk 3 one I got at the time. I might get one of the solid ones from gworks in a few weeks if needed. Im thinking the gearbox one at the back of the box could be in need of replacing as the gearchange from 2-3 is well notchy.

Am I right in thinking there is a front engine mount and a gearbox mount for the 16V or is that just the VR6? I hear the gearbox mount can be a bitch to fit?

yeah cant seem to find one for the 16V on the GSF website they only have the VR6 one listed

ardandy what’s the GSF part no on that mount? How tricky is this to replace on a 16V?

Yeah I went to 3 places at the weekend the first 2 places couldn’t/wouldn’t get it on the ramp. The place with the floor lift had it broken that morning, wasn’t my day ! Shame too cus the guys in the place were cool knew a lot about coilovers and modified suspension setup. There were a couple of booyakas in the car park with slammed novas/Saxos frouns all round  Ill be bring it over to them again in the morning fingers crossed their lift is back working.

That could be it alright haven’t don’t the tracking since the coilovers went on. Went to get it done at the weekend and the lift in the place was broken :(

Was checking this further at the weekend, it only slips/squeaks on full lock anyone know how I could tighten it to stop this noise?

Does anyone know how to replace the spoiler motor? I was looking at the weekend and the middle bit looks fairly straight forward, it’s the arms that look complicated. The replacement motor I have has bendy arms that expand and contract when the motor is wound manually. The arms coming out from the motor on my car are solid rods that go from the motor to both sides of the spoiler. Do the bendy arms go up these metal pipes, If so how do you get the mental pipes off ? Does it all come apart when you remove the middle piece of the spoiler motor?

I’ve having trouble with a squeaking power steering bet in my 16V (KR) Ive replaces it twice in the past yr, the current one is only on the car 6 months and has seen less than 500 miles! Its mainly at low speeds in car parks etc the worst places to be making noise its really annoying and makes the car sound like an aul piece of crap! I don’t have any major mods on the car 16’ BBS wheels and a slight drop but nothing major the front end/driveshaft etc don’t seem restricted in any way either so I don’t know what could be causing the strain on the belt. I’ve tried loosing and tightening it to no avail, is it a case of cheap belts or am I missing out on something?

Do you have a part no on those pads kev?

having the exact problem myself for ages with 2 pots and mrk iv rears been up the wall thought about replacing the MC recently !

I’ve already got the kit just wondering if its worth the hassle for the sake of a 1-2 degree drop

I don’t have hot oil or water problems, my water barley goes over 80 and my oil sits at 96 on motorway and 104-106 in traffic. Ideally as I said Id like it to be under 90 for general use as I would be tracking the car occasionally. Can I exspect a 10% decrease in oil temp with this cooler?

Near the alternator? I was looking at that pocket myself, so you reckon its not worth the effort/expense Rossco?