Scruffythefirst

Throttle pot disintergrated. It'll idle, but thats it. Fortunately had the laptop with me and could diagnose it, otherwise it'd be a real head scratcher. Phone call to the RAC was fun - "just send a flatbed i've broken it again" Unfortunately sams clutch went just as he was leaving but as he live just up the road he hitched a lift :D

Bugger

Had the Dax mapped at dave walkers Emerald in norfolk. Turned up at quarter to 10 and was greeted at the door by dave. We discussed a few things and got the car on the rollers. Dave got the idle and light throttle sorted after setting up the basic settings I'd missed. Dave did the first power run at 80% throttle and we got about 220Bhp although it was reading 280 (dyno set on the wrong setting) The next power run at full throttle and there was an almighty bang at 6000rpm and sparks flew from the front of the engine, which died like a stone. I was really worried that the engine had siezed, this was made worse when we tried rocking the car in gear and it wouldn't move - whoops wrong gear Embarassed the engine wasn't siezed so we tried it on the starter but there was no speed signal, and we discovered the trigger wheel was completely unattached to the crank pulley. BUGGER. Into the shop and the car wouldn't fit on the lift so out with the trolley jack. I manged to get the crank pulley off after much swearing at a 3 leg puller. The welds holding the steel timing wheel to the cast iron crank pulley had let go, mashing it. Dave was an absolute star and got the whole lot cleaned up and drilled and tapped equally spaced round the edge of the pulley with a milling machine and bolted up tightly with countersunk bolts and loctite. I suspect you might see something about it in PPC. Back on the rollers and the mapping completed and all sorted. We stuck with the current boost level as its mad enough at the moment, but we couldn't go any higher anyway as the amal valve needs re-jetting. Got 236bhp @ 6541rpm and 218ft/lb @ 4388 rpm so well chuffed with that seeing as I built it myself. Got a fair bit more there with only half an hours work if I want, but that'd be silly, wouldn't it Very Happy Dave was absolutely fantastic and very reasonably priced, even without all the work above and beyond the call of duty. Few pics

If its subatomic its not a gas by definition. Brownain motion has long been understood, and if you could actually run an engine on nothing, you'd be very rich. Instead, your a loon. No offence intended.

No, you will not be able to run the engine at that advance, it will just stop.

Yup, standard sierra driveshafts - the widebody westys have to have them shortened, and the offset of the wheels onthe dax make the track wider too. Probably why its so lardy - 752kg with a full tank and me in it.

Sva test went really well, only failed on the speedo (which I knew wasn't working before I left) and a few minor things, like labels for warning lights etc. Trouble is they've all buggered off on holiday and I can't get a re-test untill the 12th. Good news is it goes nicely though, all the way upto the speed where you can't see.

wednesday is the first attempt, but if i can't get the speedo working, it aint gonna pass.

Turns out its a bit of a pussycat to drive, took it for its tracking and camber setup and it has loads of grip and only lights the rears in 1st with your foot all the way down. Quickish tho, need a bigger turbo i think

Forcast is for rain too, and guess which route were taking to shire hill, yup, past debden :) Rods saff is pretty nice, but the new reyland escort is a much more inovative in engine tuning, should do 200+ at brunters as well.

you'll still need a valve spring compressor to do that, but if its only done 5k i wouldn't bother.

Piston ring compressor, valve spring compressor, torque wrench, angle tightening guage, assorted taps (to clean threads in block) and special sockets / spline drives for headbolts etc, plastiguage. Other measuring tools - micrometer, verniers etc Air line is usefull to clear out crud from parts, most importantly - full manual or as a minimum of all the clearances and torque settings

Unless its a really complicated shape get whoever does the seam welding to put in some new metal, cost a lot less than the old one. I know a really good powdercoaters in cambs too.

Better keep your skinny ass out of it then :)

Oil pressure problem solved, most probably. So Mot, alignment and sva (24/05) here we come....

I haven't really gone all out to make something fast, its more of a tourer - full windscreen, heater, wipers etc so its a bit lardy. I've got an idea for a proper fast one, that should be over 1000bhp / ton but i've got to finish this one first. I'm expecting circa 700kg and 280 - 300bhp, with the same torque. New turbo will see 340 ish, a little headwork, cams and solid lifters will see 8.5k redline and probably 400ish on top of the new turbo. Should be at the next stealth day, but I'm not sure if it will have been properly mapped by then. *news just in* Pickup pipe is back, been brazed back together by pace (they make dry sump systems, rads etc - so they should know what they're doing). And a shiny one of the modified front pulley for the aftermarket ecu.

Hammer a slightly too big torx socket into it

Pretty easy to do but its a bit of a fiddly job. Drop the oil and sump, rotate the crank so the rod you want to work on is at the bottom, undo the big end bolts, remove the shells, inspect the crank for wear. You may need to push the rod up the bore slightly to get the shells out, but dont push it too far or you might hit a valve. Wipe rod and crank dry, fit new bearings and plastiguage, torque bolts back up. Undo bolts and compare plastiguage to scale, and compare clearance with the spec for the engine. If ok, lube crank with assembly lube, re-assemble with new rod bolts and torque up. Repeat for the other 5. If the crank is scored or worn you will need to take the crank out and have it re-ground and fit oversize shells. Can all be done in situ, but much easier to do on an engine stand.

Nearly finished Hmmm, whatdya want oil pressure for? Wiring anyone?

Oh ye of little faith, how many cars have you killed? Anyway, its not going anywhere anytime soon. Apparently a 4wd oil pump pickup pipe wont work with a 2wd sump. A second hand 2wd pickup pipe and new matching oil pump is £250. Cut and shut coming up methinks. New SVA date 24th may although might get a cancelation :( :roll:

New turbo being built as we speak, pick it up 10am tommorow.

Yeah, he can't help it he's from cullercoats. I ended up doing everything the right way (expensive) with new bits and lots of shiny bits so its cost me lots, however you could build one for 12k I'd guess. Be cheaper to buy one i expect, or re-engine a cheap one, something like a crossflow westfield is 4-6k and an engine swop would be about 3k Unfotunately It needs a new turbo, having taken it out, fiddled with it and put it back in, I had to take it out as its donald ducked. Going to make SVA difficult on friday with no turbo. not to mention the dash had to come out to fix the poxy british leyland wiper motor.

Well it looks like the turbo and most of the inlet has to come off again to sort the problems, but its progress. Vid is 35mb just excuse the shite I spout

Well it runs. Some slight issues, it appears the turbo is not healthy, sounds like the kettle is well and truly on, TPS is on backwards (no way to tell) so its trying to dump enough fuel in for 100% throttle at idle. Had a little fun with a petrol Geyser having forgotten to tighten the high pressure line from the fuel pump. pics and vid to follow (ignore what I'm saying in it, I know sod all really about turbos)