Kevin Bacon

Crank sensor should be OK as there's no direct path onto the 12V lines. The cam sensor might be fried though as that takes 12V from the ignition circuits.

The video looks like a normal R32 to me! Pulling well. And yep, you do need to stab the throttle quite hard before the intake plunger pulls down. All perfectly normal, as is new V6 owners trying to find problems that don't exist :D

Yeah that is a downside of the R32 in any car that has it fitted. Front end off to do anything! So long as the intake bolts were tightened up nicely you have nothing to worry about. It does look like it's not fitting properly the first time you look at an R32 though! The intake also has rubber inserts for the bolt holes to stop you overtightening it and cracking the plastic.

Yeah the intake is spaced away from the head slightly to stop the orange gasket from being crushed too much.

Can't see the video as I'm at work but I'm sure other R32 convertees can commment. The VVT is subtle. It's not a VTEC type system that gives a noticable step in the power delivery. Most of the R's torque comes from the intake manifold and if that's working as it should, 2000-3000 should feel very punchy (strongest at 2500), between 3000-4000 the car feels flatter and 4500 it picks up again and at 5000 it should start pulling hard again.

Yup. If filling the scratch with some kind of clear resin and buffing it back doesn't work, it's new screen time! What can also happen on cars that aren't used much, is grit / sand from roofs gets blown onto the car and you get a nice layer of it sat on the blades waiting to scour the windscreen.

I have heard of an injector driver going bad in VR6 ECUs. Only aware of 2 instances on this forum. It's very rare but providing there are no wiring faults causing #5 to stay open, then it's got to be the ECU. Has it ever been remapped? Take it apart and look for evidence of water ingress. Sometimes the case seal gets disturbed after a remap and doesn't seal properly. Water will do a nice job of killing an ECU! Yeah it's a Golf ECU you need. Try a search as there are several OBD2 convertees on here and the ECU p/n must be mentioned somewhere.

P2GO have always been great for me. As well as dozens of regular transactions, I sent out 60 sets of 263 cams to you guys through them (via DHL IIRC) and I didn't get a single complaint about non-delivery or damaged packaging :D City Link are just beyond useless. I went to their depot once after getting a 'calling card' and the reception was unmanned. It was also filthy, porno mags on the desk, titty calendars on the walls, empty food packets everywhere, radio going at full blast etc etc. I shouted "hello" several times and then eventually a fat scruffy uninterested zombie of a bloke came out and didn't even acknowledge me. I gave him my card. He dissappeared for 5 mins and then came back, literally dropped my package onto the desk and didn't say a word. I just walked out of there saying "F'ck you too" and swore to never ever use City Link again. And I haven't :D

My MK5 engine made 254hp with the factory map and Corrado airbox + convoluted pipework! It made 267 after a remap but it would have made 280 easily with the usual breathing mods. I would keep the cat if possible as R32s seem to make less torque without it and you get a horrible resonating rasp too. Sounds nice for the first half a dozen journeys but after that it gets tiring. I think the VVT is map programmed to expect the back pressure of a cat and when it's gone, it no longer feels as punchy low down. I've certainly noticed it, as have plenty of MK4/5 owners. Looks like a power plug to me mate. The blue/yellow wire tells me it's a power (whilst cranking) feed to the MAF etc. That normally plugs into the relay/fuse board under the wipers in the MK4/5.

MK3 has a different subframe. It looks the same but when you go to fit it you'll see the locating dowel holes are in the wrong place, as are some of the holes for the 10mm bolts. In a nutshell, don't waste your time! Sounds like the Passat roof you have has a snapped water plate guide. You can still get repair kits for them. I would also get a tube of the hideously expensive "Sliding mechanism grease" from VW.

Yeah chemical metal it before skimming or just sand it back after it's dry if DIY and not skimming. I would do as many thin layers as possible, rather than one great big thick one. Same on the block. The CM's job is just to press down on the gasket where a pitted hole wouldn't and won't be anywhere near the cylinder, so it's fine.

The dash gauge is a LOT slower to react than the coolant temp sensors are. My VR used to get up to running temperature (yep, mid 80s is normal) within a few miles, but the dash gauge would still be just about crawling past 70 by the time I got to work. I never investigated it dash gauges are only a rough guide anyway. This is why for the MK4 platform onwards, VAG engineered the gauge behaviour to always be in the middle (90 deg) no matter what, even when the actual temp is about 110, to stop paranoid customers constantly ringing the dealers! People are comfortable with the 'middle'. Either side of that and they start to worry (needlessly).

Parcel2Go aren't the problem. Schitty Stink are. We used to used them at my old job to deliver PCs and Monitors (21" CRTs!) and they used to arrived DOA or we'd catch them chucking them off the lorries. I also had a lawnmower delivered to work via them and the guy made me get it off the truck as he was too lazy. You get to pick who collects your parcels through P2Go, so just make sure you don't choose Schitty Link!

Nah. If it's still thirsty you have a different problem :D ---------- Post added at 3:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:45 PM ---------- It's in the downpipe just before the cat mate. Need to climb underneath to get to it. 22mm spanner required.

Henny speaks the truth! Once you've done it a few times, it does become one of those 2nd nature kind of jobs you can do quickly. FWIW, the passat estate moonroof on Quicky1980's car seemed to sit really well imo. I'm as picky as they come and I couldn't fault the panel alignment on his.

A few guys on PistonHeads have tried it and not noticed any difference, lol. I suppose the benefits will only be seen after continued use of it as it does keep intake valves and injectors pretty clean.

Same price apparently!

Lambda, MAF, cam sensor and blue temp sender are the usual suspects.

Yep, car insurance is nothing short of legalised theft imo. Unfortunately car insurance is against both the car and you. They give you a policy against the car so that you can't use your bonus on a second car and the premiums are loaded against any accidents YOU (not the car) have had, in ANY car. Absolute dick turpin thieving robbin bastids the lot of them. But yep, Compare the Market will successfully rid the world of the useless companies. If the car is standard, it's the best place to get a quote. £350 to insure my R32 via CTM. £900 through a so called "VW specialist" underwritten through Lloyds.

Certainly did! Very different power deliveries but the VRT has an incredibly addictive midrange thump that pulls car lengths on just about anything :D

Looks like V Power has been updated - http://www.shell.co.uk/gbr/products-services/on-the-road/fuels/vpower/what-is-v-power-nitro-plus.html Still 99 RON from what I can gather, but now has 25% more friction modifiers. That should improve mpg a little :D

Yup. And people think VRT owners are bullschitting when we say we can pull a few car lengths on Gallardos ;)

An average VRT conversion running a bar of boost is 320hp / tonne ;) There are plenty of VRTs out there (especially in Europe) running crazy power. They would floss their teeth with RS6s.... in a straight line at least.

Cocksure booklet overcharging. Nice!

Ha ha, yeah it's one of those "ion straightener" devices :lol: It's supposed to realign the ions in the fuel for a more efficient burn. Hmmmm.....