Kevin Bacon

What's with the bickering chaps? The heat getting to your heads? Let it get to your right foot instead :lol: You can actually get your own springs wound and you can also get Koni to valve some dampers to your own specifications, so there is no limit to what you can have. My favourite off the shelf package is H&R springs (much softer than Eibach) and Koni TAs. It is the H&R coilover kit that is reputed to be way too hard, and at £800, I'm not going to find out for myself either! Kev

I've colour coded my side protection strips and I'm glad I did it as I was contemplating removing them but I keep opening the door onto my driveway wall, so glad I left them on! IMO the side of the C looks bare without them and it highlights the panel gaps around the doors a bit more than I'd like. The strips somehow take your focus off the gaps. I'll be doing the handles at some point too. Kev

Thanks Supercharged, you found the massive missive on the subject, should explain all! When Slick 50 was first launched in the 80s, they claimed a Ford Capri using the stuff found an extra 12bhp and could run dry for 15 minutes with no internal wear. Now, for £30 or £40, does that sound feasible to you? From my limited knowledge of chemistry, to chemically bond a substance (forget the correct terminology) to another material has to be done in controlled and CLEAN environments. Chucking it in with existing engine oil is not really a sound method in my opinion. Yes, the particules of PTFE that didn't bond to the engine internals would congest various oil ways. Try it at your own risk! Kev

How does this mod affect the torque, given that the Turn2 inlet tract is significantly longer than the standard one? Long inlet paths traditionally boost low down torque, so should be good in theory. Kev

Welcome to the forum! Eibach springs are known to be hard and the shallow sidewalls of 17" tyres doesn't really help matters. It's a shame because Corrados look best on 17s, but ride better on 15s. H&R springs are a better compromise between comfort and ride quality. There are few guys here with coilovers who will be glad to offer advice on those. Kev

The Golf VR6 shares many of the C VR6's running gear, so if both were fitted with Koni/Eibachs, there wouldn't be a lot in it I suspect. The Golf carries around the same weight but somehow, the chassis is always at odds with the engine, or so I've experienced at least. The C and it's VR engine work more in harmony with eachother, especially if you've got decent engine mounts and a good rear anti-roll bar. Front wheel pitching is greatly reduced with both. The C has levels of feel and communication the Golf can only dream of, though. Re the Golf engines. The pre-highlines had the AAA engine but the Highline has ABV throttle body and inlet manifold, not to mention being fully OBD2 compliant. These engines produce 185bhp time after time. VW never publically disclosed that. Kev

Have you considered a Vauxhall Vectra beesting aerial with intergral washer jet? That will then delete the wash function from the rear quite nicely but which wipers would then attach to the resultant spindle will take some experimentation. Kev

Yeah CVs are pretty straight forward on the C/Golf as Dazzy pointed out. Front wheel bearings are not so straight forward, they really need to be pressed in with a proper 2 or 3 tonne press. Hammering it in will destroy it. If you're doing the outer CV, you'll need a long bar to release the hub nut (30mm I think) and a 150lb+ torque wrench to retighten it. Always use a new hub nut (comes with the CV) and lube the splines with copper grease to aid reassembly/future dismantling. Kev

Yeah I've heard the same about Molyslip and also Slick 50 gear additive. Never add Slick 50 to the engine, but it's actually quite good in the gearbox. Castrol do a VW specific gear oil, an 80/90W multigrade but I can't remember it's name. It's pretty good stuff. Kev

Nope, a VW white paper has stated that G11 has been found to cause corrosion, but I don't really believe that as it's been in use for nearly 2 decades. Perhaps on alloy to alloy engines? Best bet is to stick with G12+ as that's all that's available now. Kev

Bow down to the master 8) Kev

Because your arms are too weak :lol: Kev

Remove expansion cap Remove bottom rad hose Unscrew block drain plug (to the left of the oil filter housing on the long pipe) Allow to drain Replace drain plug Replace bottom hose Remove top hose Pour G12+/water mixture into the top hose and continue until coolant rises into the expansion tank Replace top hose Drive and get up to temperature Allow to cool Top up Done Do not fill via the expansion tank or you'll get an air lock. Kev

You need a 13 row by 245mm one. A fan would be useful for when you're stuck in traffic, a small 12V Server rack one or something, but the flow of air will cool the oil down once you're on the move. Kev

Sorry Rams mate, I was only jesting....no offense meant. For what it's worth, I mounted mine in front of the radiator. I removed the entire slam panel assembly and spent an afternoon making up brackets. Space is tight but it's well worth the effort. It was suggested to me to mount it in the wheelarch where the G60 intercooler would normally be, but I felt doing it my way was easier. I will upload a pic soon. Kev

Yes I was going to say your signature is confusing mate, well, to those that don't notice your username is "AndyVR6" at least How did AmD come to this conclusion then? If the VR clutch is really heavy, it's gone beyond half worn and the pressure plate springs are travelling too far. Mine was replaced at 74K for that very reason, but there was still at least 30K of friction material left, most annoying. Be warned though, unless you have the flywheel resurfaced or replaced, chances are the new clutch will judder. Helix Autosport clutches are only recommended for seriously modded cars. They use a SACHS sporting pressure plate, which is heavy. The friction material is stingy too. I had one on my 16V Turbo and it lasted a year. Avoid. Kev

It doesn't really sound like a 6 cylinder until it comes on the cam. I hope there was a fan in front of the car! Kev

As a guess, 33mm exhaust and 40mm inlet. Kev

Is it not leaking out of the pump? How many miles has the car done? I've never had to replace a rack, not even on my 210,000 mile MK1, but that's not to say your VR is not in need of one. Check for wetness around the unions on the rack and behind the rubber bellows at each end. Also check for play in the rack. The tiniest movement on the steering wheel should translate to movement of the road wheels. If there is a slight delay in the road wheels moving, the rack is knackered or your tie rod ends are. As for price, not sure. I think it's a MK3 based rack on the VR6 so should be around £100 from G&S or three times that from VW. HTH Kev

Hmmm, what you want to avoid is the swarf embedding itself down the side of the piston and scoring the bore. In fact, the natural inclination of the VR6 piston would encourage that. I would insist they try and hoover as much of the metal out as possible with a narrow pipe. Imo, the torque figure for the plugs is not enough. I give them an extra half turn to be sure. Never had one come loose on me yet in 13 years, touch wood. Kev

Mocca is a blend of coffee mate! Mocal is what you mean. I have one on my VR6 which dropped the oil temp from 114 degrees at 80mph to 96 degrees. Much more like it. Oil molecules shear apart at certain temperatures, depending on oil quality. Usually around 150+ on cheaper oils and 250+ on expensive hybrids. The VR is just a hot engine because A) it's in a confined space and B) the cylinders are very close together. This is why the VR has such a huge radiator, electric and engine driven pumps, two fans and a big coolant capacity. It still needs all the help it can get, which is why a Mocal is a good investment. Kev

What is it with Corrados blowing head gaskets at the moment? Kev

Agreed on the Bonraths, had some on my Golf and they were awful. VR6 ones are plenty good enough and last for ages. My VR had it's first replacements at 74,000 miles. Kev

Blue Igniters are really good. I had a set on my first MK2 16V and carried them across to each of my 4 subsequent 16Vs! They're bomb proof. They are standard guage cable but very flexible and have OEM ends, not OE style, but the actual ends VW use. They're expensive but the last set you'll ever buy. Kev

That's very impressive because Type Rs are in the low to mid 6's for the 0-60, and it also beat the Clio 172 as the ultimate hot hatch, so fair dos, you're doing well to beat one. Then again, when I drove the Silver example, I could feel it was only quick because of the stupidly short gear ratios. It was quite amusing actually, the sales rep said enthusiastically "floor it at 5000rpm and hang on"....I did and, errr, where's the extra power? I just said "Yeah it's really great " Awesome handling tho.... Kev