Chris M

My car seems to be hitting me with an endless barage of s**t ATM, i know how you feel. Spent load of cash on it lately aswell, you'd think the fecking thing would be greatfull

Its on the throtle body on the side of the small buterfly. if you can turn it too easily its gone. PTFE tape around the thread will do the job of a new O ring if you cant find one.

Check the O ring in the idle screw isnt perished and the idle screw is adjusting its self with the vibration.

Those strap type oil filter removers are good for stoping the charger from spinning while you undo the nut.

I think you will be seeing slightly more than 220 with a gwerks CNC head, as long as you get it maped proper after. Don't think people realise just how well they flow, not just talking a port and polish here.

Oh yes i can see how the gasses have a merry old time navigating there way through that mess. Its got an inlet and an outlet what more do you want :lol: Looks very cool now, nice tail pipe 8)

10

If your drive shaft wont work properly then try taking it back apart and puting it back together another way. If my memory serves me there are two way of putting them together, one is dead easy and means it doesn't work or is fixed solid, the other way is a ba***rd to put together and means it works perfectly. I think it might be the metal dished bearing suport ring thing the wrong way round.

Line all your cam timing marks to TDC, then pull out No1 spark plug and see if the piston is all the way up to the top, a screw driver is a good way of feeling through the plug hole. If you turn the engine either way and back you should get a feel for where the piston is. If all's ok it should only go down and you can rule that out.

Sounds to me like your crank bolt has gone slack and sheared the key off. Meaning your valve timing will have slowly been moving out of sync.

I've been running mine for a while now and your right about the difference it makes. I started off running mine at 50/50 during the winter because that was what felt the best but now its warm i've started putting less methanol in and it seems to pull slightly stronger like that.

Here ya go http://www.corrado-club.ca/mods/oldspoiler.html

I've just had a quote to repair a toe bar dent in my bumper after one of my girlfriends work mates reversed into it. £20 paint/ £60 labour +vat about £94 total. Thats to remove the bumper warm up the dent and push it back out and repaint the whole bumper. And these are not the cheapest in town. I'd go to a reputable body shop and get another quote with a brake down on it.

8 gal/hour multiply by 3.7 = 29.6 16.6666667 cc/min per liter/hour 29.6 liter/ hour multiply by 16.6666667 = 493.333 cc/min. Your right.

Are you sure thats cl and not cc Ive been running 500cc jets in my car for over 2 weeks now with some fair old thrashing and used about 3L of water/methanol mix

Right then, after god knows how much fuel, time and head scratching I’ve come to the conclusion that my car is miles faster WITHOUT this water injection. No mater which way round i fire the nozzles or what pressures the stages activate or where they are placed the car seriously bogs down when both stages are on. After getting some information and guidance from Darren at G-werks and using the information on the LINK that Darren provided on the Injector thread and various other water injection sites, I have come up with the following calculations. Standard Green g60 injectors supply 250cc/min of fuel each at 85% duty cycle X 4 = 1000cc/min of fuel at maximum load point. The general rule is that water should be injected at 15% of the fuel at any given point So 15% of 1000cc/min fuel = 150cc/min water. To convert cc/min to gal/hour Multiply by 0.015873 150cc/min = 2.38095 gal/hour I have been supplied with a 3 gal/hour and a 5 gal/hour nozzle totaling 8gal/hour when both stages activate 8 gal/hour divided by 0.015873 = 504cc/min = 50% water to fuel. Can some one in the know run through those calcs and just verify that what I’ve done is right, and if it is just tell me how lucky it is that I haven't hydraulic locked my engine and bent a rod. Gibber if this is right I’m going to be needing a 0.8 gal/hour nozzle and a 1.5 gal/hour nozzle.

Hi Sam, For the best results I would have it mapped with the water injection, because there are big gains to be had with more advanced timing and a slightly lean mixture. But you will need some fail safe devices should the water fail, to stop detonation. You would need some way of sensing the water supply just before the water jets, something like a pressure switch. Then you will need some kind of electric dump valve, that if the water SHOULD be on but has not triggered the pressure switch the dump valve would then dump all the boost. I don't know if the ISV could be rigged to do this job. It might be a mine field but i think you are in the perfect position to make the most of water injection, if you don't then you will probably wonder what it would be like if you had. I'm sure someone with more electronic knowlage will be able to help more.

I'd have made them wait untill the figured it out

Could be the isv needing a good clean out, but i'd say your throtle cable is sticking or the throtle is sticking, spray some WD40 around the throttle spindles and see if your cable moves freely when disconected.

Make sure its made by Elring, just as good if not better than OE

I rebuilt the bottom end 12k ago to standard spec, the head will be getting bigger valves and port work shortly, everything else is just bolt on, chip & 68mm pulley etc. It gets used quite a lot ATM and caned quite regularly but once my van is back on the road it will be mostly doing short journeys with a good thrashing at the weekends.

Oh oilman, what would you recomend for a modded G60?

There is a Fuchs factory not far from my house in stoke, it used to be Century oils. It always makes me laugh when i see fuchs lubricants, sounds like something that you'd find in ann summers

Are you sure it wasn't someone going to a fancy dress party.

Musicman, For the police to do that it would mean getting off there arses and out of there warm cars and deal with a pissed up person. Its far easier to just go after speeders or just sit back and let plod on a stick do all the work.