GIXXERUK

£150 exchange seems to be the price from a bosch dealer, better than £318 from the stealer for the same thing

Lippy, aye i spoke to kev :-( just missed it

Lippy, nice to meet you yesterday andy ..... i'm hunting the problem down like a dog now :-) £318.71 for a new maf from vw :shock: :shock: , i could buy a vr for that off ebay :wink:

MAF Sensors (Bosch Style) The Bosch style system is used on 5.0L and 5.7L Firebirds, Camaros and Corvettes, most European cars and some Asian imports. This design of sensor uses an exposed platinum sensing wire and a "burn-off" feature that uses a relay to burn away impurities off of the hot wire (figure 3). Diagnosing Contaminated Mass Airflow Sensors MAF sensors can get contaminated from a variety of sources - dirt, oil, silicone, spider webs, potting compound from the sensor element itself, etc. When a MAF sensor gets contaminated, it skews the transfer function such that the MAF overestimates airflow at idle (causes the fuel system to go rich) and underestimates airflow at high airflow (causes the fuel system to go lean). This means that Long Term Fuel Trim will learn lean (negative) corrections at idle and rich (positive) corrections at higher airflow. If a vehicle is driven at WOT (Wide-Open Throttle) or high loads, the fuel system normally goes open loop with a rich mixture to provide maximum power. Real World Example: 1993 Buick Century 3.3 Liter 1993 Buick Century Wagon This vehicle was booked in for diagnostics following a customer complaint. The repair shop had replaced the catalytic converter, but this had not corrected the high NOx emissions. The first clue this was a lean air/fuel ratio problem was the final test result, which was very similar to the retest result of .1056 g/km [0.17 g/mi] HC, 1.6447 g/km [2. 65 g/mi] of carbon monoxide and 2.5314 g/km [4.08 g/mi] of NOx. The clue here is that the NOx was actually higher than the carbon monoxide! The second clue was the Diagnostic Trace Report (figure 4). If you look at the sections of the driving trace where accelerations occur, you will see the NOx goes high and carbon monoxide remains low. This is just the opposite of what you should expect! There will usually be some degree of enrichment and high carbon monoxide during accelerations to improve throttle response and reduce NOx emissions. The third clue was Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) at high idle. I hooked up my scanner and checked fuel trim and airflow at exactly 2500 RPM while also observing the O2 sensor on my lab scope. I noted the indicated airflow for future reference, which was 14.1 g/second. The scope showed the vehicle was maintaining closed loop, but the scanner indicated the control system was compensating for an under-prediction in airflow or a lean condition. This would serve as a baseline test to see if things improved after cleaning the sensor. At this point, it was time to stop checking and start repairing. Removing the MAF sensor on the Buick is easy. Just remove three screws and the sensor module is in your hand. A close visual inspection showed there was a fuzzy build-up on the sensing element. This required a bit of scrubbing with a soft toothbrush and some throttle body cleaner. Just spraying the sensor wire did not remove the fuzzy build-up that appeared to be small fibers from the air filter. I followed this with some brake cleaner and compressed air to make sure there was no residue on the sensor that would attract more dirt. With the sensor module reinstalled, it was time to see if the cleaning improved the transfer function of the sensor. Reproducing the test conditions from my baseline, I took the RPM to exactly 2500 again. The indicated airflow was 17.6 g/second, an increase of almost 25 percent. The long-term fuel trim values were now close to the nominal 128 value with a reading of 124. A second test at the Technical Center confirmed the NOx had been reduced by 40 percent and the vehicle fast-passed when taken through the inspection lanes for an official I/M240 test.

mines about the same height and demon tweeks did the 4wheel alignment no probs go somewhere where they know what they are doing

dr_mat, everyone is fallible and vince was on a tight schedule and the maf was an off the cuff remark but he did justify this by noticing a glitch when the car was under load he said it is working but maybe not correctly, hence vagcom not reporting it as a fault shame there isnt someone close by who i could swop my maf with to try it , the nearest is dazzyvr6

JT-G60, cheers mate i'll take a look i just wonder how nuch the mfa could affect the bhp without really altering the general running of the car and show no fault, i know the mfa is a common fault and i wanted to know is it possible to test it (which i doubt, test to see if its working ,maybe, working correctly not likely)

dr_mat, i've posted them here http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 298#373298 the MFA usually reads 23-25 mpg (unless i'm going down hill) yes the torque is a reasonable figure but the bhp is well down

c'mon people

woah ! they are .. special , i like :cheers: :cyclops2:

s.g, if you have an uprated loom it needs to be disconnected

i had my car at stealth today and it ran about 180bhp and 189.6 lb ft of torque the vagcom was clear but vince reckons he saw a glitch somewhere that suggests the MAF is the problem, he said vagcom will only pick the MAF up if its dead and wont report if its just not running correctly is there a way i can test the MAF ? the car does seem excessively thirsty on the juice, i did approx 300 miles on £60 worth of petrol today otherwise the car runs fine and idles fine but it seems to have changed a little recently with most of the grunt being at the bottom of pedal ? any ideas i would obviously go for a 2nd hand MAF as they will be stupidly overpriced at the stealers so being able to test it would be useful tia

boraboy, yep as bcstudent, says the prices are back to front ,have been for years :roll: :roll:

hi graham and welcome aboard , that was one tidy g60 you used to have , gpc are the cheapest for a new front splitter where are you ?

i've got a Pioneer DEH-P9600MP , which is nice :-)

sickening mate , that was a tidy c i have noticed the rado's handle really well but the down side is they seem to give little warning when things are about to go t!ts up glad you're ok

http://www.autotech.com/prod_elec_qchip.htm#vr6 anyone got one ? just looking for feedback just saw it mentioned here- http://media.corrado-club.ca/tech/Corradospec.pdf

there shouldnt be anymore play and by more of an effort to get in gear do you mean you can feel like a gate before you get it into gear? maybe the cables need setting up ? The shifter should be set-up so you can pull it back or push it forward without moving it to either side. If the static position is out then you will have to push it forwards while moving it to one side and this makes it hard to shift. You always check the adjustment by making sure it goes into first and reverse very smoothly.

RW1, so youre saying his rear (spoiler) has been rogered :shock: try lifting or pushing down on the spoiler as you unscew to allow the bolt some purchase use some loctite when you put it back though

i'd be interested

its a buyers market , excellent time to buy ..good luck

its possibly the best mod you can do, honestly you wont regret it

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31664

neither really compare , the mk2 or mk3 you cant compare a 911's handling to a corrado , its in a different league, unless you mean a 911 from the same era ? the mk3 is like driving a van compared to the rado

the lights run on 9v , this the problem , with an uprated loom it runs on 12v you wont get any joy with better bulbs unless you uprate the loom the uprated loom is plug and play , no splicing or cutting wires and no you dont need to re align the headlights when you change the bulbs , just buy H4 bulbs and fit them