theRuler

everything helps i guess. its just that the handles i repaired yesterday, both the levers (that snap) were super stiff with oxidisation. that cant be good. i had noticed they were getting progressively stiffer (over the years) but like a bonehead did nothing about it. until it was too late!

but it is under more load, as it all gets stiff. that's what eventually breaks it.

slam the old dear until she rattles . . . . . :twisted:

they did look straightforward. just laser cut steel. props to the german chap for making them! removing the pin is a bit of a "slags ass" though.

fair enough. this german chap has been selling them for a while. and they do work good.

This may be obvious to some people, but it wasn't to me. after repairing my door handles, i realised i could have easily prevented their demise. the part that breaks appears to do so through corrosion: it all gets stuck together with corrosion and becomes stiff, then snaps. grease the mechanism on the handle!!!! do it every 6 months or so. that should make it last the life of the car. if you havent greased yours, DO IT TODAY! it's just one screw to undo. the handle wont come out very far (due to the wires) but far enough to get a finger of grease in there. lash it on. it doesnt matter how much you use. you'll thank me when you DONT have to climb through the boot to get in . . . . . . . ooh me back

My drivers side handle broke. bought a second hand handle. that broke after 6 months. spent a few months getting in through the passenger side. then that broke. a familiar tale to some of you, i'm sure. anyways i was scouring ebay and classifieds for second hand handles when i come across this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7926606848&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT (this link wont be active forever!!!!) basically its a repair kit, for corrado handles. contains parts for both door handles cost me 27 quid inc postage from some guy in germany. repaired both handles yesterday, and they are A1 now. if anyone wants one of these kits, i think this guy actually makes them: mailto:[email protected]

go with the 4wd mate.

yeh wash em on 40! forgot to say that. on my washing machine its the "daily wash" setting. in fact its the only one i use. if you are daunted by it, just do the passenger seat, or even just the base of the seat. if it works good (it should!) it will motivate you to making it all look dope.

i know, but are there any stub axels from a vw or audi that are the same stud pattern?

I got a 94 VR6, with light grey cloth interior it was getting a bit grubby . . . so took the front seats out (one at a time) and cut off all of the little metal clips holding the material on, withdrew the metal rods (fiddly) and put all the bits in the washing machine. came out looking mint. for reassembly, use small cable ties, that way you can get them all in place (not tight) then tighten them all up individually pulling it all tight again. while the front seats are out, you get plenty of room to give it all a good clean (hoover the baccy from all the corners :oops: ). i did the back seats too. if you do this, dont force-dry the material - let it dry slowly. in fact try and rebuild the seats just before its all fully dry. this will take freakin' hours to do, but believe me its well worth it!!!

Good looking out there. ghetto mods always the best!

the banging sounds like the exhaust flapping about what are the engine mounts like? if the front one is slack, just a little rock in the engine can send the pipe nuts

it looks dizzope better than the fruity bodykits that reiger also do.

dont know about the fronts, but could you fit discs on the back that have a porsche stud pattern? or even the whole stub axles (like we used to do with mk1 golfs, fitting mk2 rear discs)

my car has the full closure thing. and it still works. i know it makes a clicky sound because the handle is not on the car. i have learnt these handles i have been offered are from a 92 16V. will they physically go on? i mean, is the mechanism the same?

you really need to remove the outer cv joint from the driveshaft for this. first thing to do, while the wheels are on the ground, is undo the fat nut on the end that will be VERY tight. i use a 4 foot bar with a socket welded on the end for this. (good for getting it super tight after too) thats the hardest bit out the way . . . now jack it up (on the front subframe somewhere) and support it however which way you want. make sure it's safe! theres a couple of ways to get enough flex to get the cv joint out. you could undo the bottom ball joint, or disconnect the suspension leg at the bottom, and should have enough movement to get the cv joint out the hub. you'll see which is best when you are down there. be careful not to: pull the inner cv joint to bits mangle the botom ball joint all in all its a shitty job, especially as the old boot has split and dropped it's guts everywhere. if the cv joint is old/worn, now may be a good time to swap the whole thing rather than just the boot. still probably cheaper than £80.

I got a 94 VR6, when the doors are locked (with the key) it shuts the windows and sunroof. anyway, both handles are broke. (first the passenger side broke, now the drivers side) and getting in through the boot would be easier if i were more nimble . . . . i have been offered a set of door handles that are nearly new, and at the right price, but they have only 2 wires instead of 3. is there some way i can combine the 3 wire bit to the 2 wire handle? anybody familiar with the mech in these handles? i notice when i turn the key in my 3 wire handle, there is a "click" from a microswitch. ** edit ** this thread probably belongs in the problem section, if a mod wants to move it. . . .

its done 148,000 miles now, and it doesn't run as crisp as it used to. some dude at work said he resets the ecu in his pug (every now and again) and that makes it run nice the car still drives nice. although the gearbox is getting "loose"

thanks buddy i'll do that today 8)

sup guys how do i perform an ecu reset on my 95 uk corrado vr6? thanks in advance