theRuler

word. i eat mine. :roll:

good looking out bro i'll try that 8)

i cant remember whether the piston twists in or not. if it does, it will have provision on it to put a bar across it and twist failing that, get a g cramp on it. once it starts to move it will ease in without too much fuss.

its well worth doing. a good machine shop / engineering place should be able to do the whole lot. when my vr6 motor dies, i will have that all done to it. it shouldnt cost that much either

twist it with some BIG GRIPS but make sure the seal doesnt receive any BIG RIPS in the process.

forgive my dumbness, but what is the ISV ? :oops:

my car did that just before the head gasket went. although not quite as bad as you describe. its a tricky one to call. new leads and plugs are always a good investment. and while you have the plugs out, they can sometimes give you an indication if a head gasket is leaking. my car also ran like that another time.after changing leads and plugs (to no avail) i took the airflow meter off, and tested it on another car. when i refitted the airflow meter, it was all cured!! almost like it need unplugging and plugging back in. its now running like a dog again until it is warm, but think i have a fuel leak that aint helping (robbing the fuel pressure overnight) my car has done 150k.

i must add though - get the flywheel lightened PROFESSIONALLY tempting as it may be to machine bits off it, it can lead to disaster. i had a friend with a pug 1.9 gti 205, he lightened his flywheel himself, by drilling etc. it broke at high revs, went through the bellhousing on the box, and jammed into the passenger side footwell so hard it was poking through the floor. a "spare underpants" moment :shock:

you could, as a suggestion, get the crank reground to suit new bearings. while you are having that done, get it balanced while you are in there, get the conrods all matched (to same weight) then balanced and have the whole lot "tuffrided" also shed some weight off the flywheel too. that'll make for a tasty and strong bottom end. shouldnt cost much, but in the long run, will be dope.

yeh TSW sell brackets that space the caliper out, allowing for bigger discs. bigger calipers would be nice too. i'd go for the audi conversion.

yeh our polo is faultless - always runs fine. mind you it's only done 50k only thing we had to do was get some yoko's on it (couldnt get proxes T1's in 14") could do with lowering though - the arches are "double fisters" :oops: ironically the car she had before was a white corsa. it looked like SNOOPY'S HEAD

there is a "fuelly" smell, and i have noticed the odd bit of leakage where the 2 pipes join the fuel rail (on the left as facing the motor) :oops: can't be good. but i cannot see where its coming from. i think the lack of fuel pressure would hamper my running.

my gf has a 1998 16V polo. its quite a good car. its black, and has a much better spec than the normal polo's of that year: tinted glass / rear lights height adjustable front seats height adjustable steering column leccy windows, PAS, slide n tilt roof. all good oh and 100 bhp. it goes "ok" i guess. the gears are a little short. (compared to my CVR6)

could that pipe taking in fresh air affect the tickover / running? thanks for the galaxy tip btw! 8)

heres the scoop. 94 vr6: facing the engine from the front, there is a metal box to the left of the rocker cover. coming from that box is a pipe which leads to the throttle pipe (throttle pipe being the big one between the airflow sensor and the throttle body) anyways the pipe that goes from the "box" to the big pipe is broken, just before what looks like some kind of valve. i have repaired this a couple of times. does this need to be there? can i just blank it both ends? would this affect the running of my car? i also have some running "issues": from cold, there is a strong petrolly smell in the car. it sometimes takes a while to start, and stalls a lot. in fact it stalls a lot even when warm, it only seems happiest over 2000 revs. i had the airflow meter tested on another c, and it was fine.

paint them black!

now you say that, i think the campaign i saw with those mk2 style rubbing strips, had had them stuck on after. ***** NICE :roll: ***** anyways the car i always wanted was a mk1 scirocco storm. i once bought a mk1 scirocco GLI. but it had literally rusted away to nothing, and i couldnt repair it. they are such a nice shape though.

a nasty glass sunroof isn't "no sunroof" i had so many mk1's with them shit aftermarket sunroofs in. they rot, leak etc :evil: i even re-roofed a mk1 for a mate due to excessive rot where a sunroof had been thrown in the steel ones are ok. electric even better!!!! dope.

no sunroof is not a bad thing!!! if i had the cash i'd buy another mk1 golf tomorrow. been into them since my dad had one back in '84 dad racer - he fitted an 1800 engine, konis, zender body kit (INC "BACKFLASH"!!!) and got it half sprayed in grey (an 80's thing)

campaigns also had different rubbing strips on the side (bit like early mk2's) and different interior door handles (they had a leather stitch-look about them) i run mk1 golfs for about 6 years and the tinted glass was like hen's teeth to find. a mk1 golf with a 1.8 16V engine is still a damn fine (and fast) car to drive. mine was bananas . . . bit loud though.

the campaign mk1 ones were the best. had the tinted glass, and some extra bits n bobs (the mfa, i believe) they are not especially rare as such, but they are the best of the bunch, therefore most desirable. (more so when complete / not fucked)

they look a bit blank at the front with all that smoothness post a pic showing where the numberplate sits afterwards!

its definately a weak point. but they break because they get stiff, and the weak point is exploited. maybe the seal around the handle gets slack in time, and moisture gets in. the grease / general care will ease the stiffness, and must help in the long run. and if you have a corrado - its doing the "long run!" i dont have much experience of other car's door handles. but vw handles have often been shit for one reason or another. well not the more recent handles, but on the older cars: mk1, mk2 golfs - comedy door handles.

yeh i had to remove the "broken arm" pin not the large one though !!!

ok every 12 then. its not hard to do really. my doors close easily. the handles just gradually got stiffer, then snapped.