stevemac

Good looking car leigh - sounds like you'll have a fair amount of power too...... 8)

Every 50k (ish)

See :- http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5448

You know your Merc's Roddy, the 2.3-16v was a far better car than the 2.5-16v (I've driven both). On paper they're about the same but you wouldn't beleive that when you drive them. I should have thought that Top Gear would have done some research before the show. The cc increase from the 2.3-16v to 2.5-16v was done to maintain "similar" performance & because the Merc head (2.5) was not as well made as the Cozzie (2.3). Cosworth badges were never factory fitted to the boot lids of either car - unlike the car which they had on the show.

VR6 - 190bhp G60 - 160bhp The G60 although having less bhp in standard form does have a fair amount of torque - due to the supercharger. Many G60's are tuned and 190-200bhp is not all that uncommon. There are even a few supercharged VR6's around The main difference is that that the VR6 seems to appeal to a different type of person to a G60. If you like the smoothness, later interior, etc - then the VR6 is the engine to go for. If you like real "eyeballs out" type driving then the G60 is the car. The G60 has a lighter front end, consequently it is slightly better balanced than the VR.

you that desperate for IT Brian lol :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Do you know how to test your boost levels? 1. Start Motor 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop motor 5. Start Motor 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see approx 470-490 readings fluctuating with idle (warm engine). Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

Depends which Imprezza it was - some of them ain't all that quick.

Have a read in the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com - may give you a few places to start.

6 degrees Before Top Dead Centre = 6 degrees before the piston in cylinder no.1 reaches the top of its travel. If using Optimax (higher octane rating) you may be able to set to 7 degrees for more power. Timing marks are on the flywheel but you'll need a strobe light to get the measurement. Must unplug the Blue temp sensor to disable the ECU corrective timing system

I eat 1.8 8v Astras for breakfast... :lol: & 16v Astras for lunch......... :lol:

I would also make sure that the car has your usual fuel in the tank i.e. if you normally drive on Optimax then make sure Optimax is in the car when you get the re-chip done. Broadly speaking, on a car which is otherwise functioning correctly, more timing advance can be used with higher octane fuel = more power. The benefits of higher octane fuel cannot be fully exploited unless the timing is also adjusted. These cars are not new anymore and each car will have developed it's own charachteristics over the years - hence the debate earlier in this thread.

Cheers Tom

Leeds, Leeds, Leeds Local Corrados - so far as I'm aware (in addition to the 3 of us) doublezero jimbo-corrado matt buz hustler are all from Leeds Robbo149 - Dewsbury 20v turbo - Huddersfield turbocorrado - Where in Leeds are you from ?? I'm living in Farsley at the mo.

Have you actually checked the price of the 16v leads or are you just refering to the earlier post ??

cope - many garages are not aware of the correct proceedure for setting the timing on a G60. While the engine is idling the blue temp sensor must be disconnected. Engine revs should be held at 2500rpm, while timing is set to approx 6 degrees BTDC. After timing has been set - re-connect blue temp sensor & go for a drive. Can be a bit of trial & error getting the timing set correctly. 6 degrees is the factory setting but the ideal setting will depend on the type of fuel used etc. also check the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com

I just spent ages typing all that stuff..think I get the cabbage award for that ?

What model Corrado is it ?? If it's a G60 then try disconnecting the blue temp sensor (while the engine is running) - fitted into the water pipe on the front of the engine. If it makes no difference at all - replace this sensor. If your engine cuts out or runs even more roughly then this sensor is okay. Check condition of the ECU vac hose - ends sometimes start to leak - should measure exactly 1m in length. If the ends are damaged then you'll need to replace the entire hose. Also check out the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com If it's a VR6 than I ain't got a clue.

What exactly do you mean by "map number" ??

Cheers m8 - might just have a go at that

jedi-knight83 - have you road-tested your brakes - do they still work okay ??

Check your expansion tank (just behind the battery) - if the water is from your heater matrix then this tank will be empty. Sounds to me like your passenger door seal may be leaking - 2 possibilities 1st would be a damaged seal. 2nd would be that your door is slightly misaligned in which case your hinges will need adjusting - fairly common problem although doesn't always result in water leaks. Water on shelf problem could be a leaking/badly fitted windscreen - may need a bit more investigation

kevhaywire - cheers Kev, do you know of any cheap(ish) places to get Magnecor leads from ??

Same scheme as I used to market at Mercedes a few years ago. I think you'll find that any/all of the tyres will only be replaced once. It is a form of tyre insurance which is run by a seperate company & not the tyre seller. Once the tyres reach the end of their lifespan i.e. illegal tread depth, this scheme becomes void & will not provide you with a replacement tyre/tyres.

Any chance of scanning a copy & posting it on here - my leads r gonna need replacing soon. Not sure which ones to get. cheers