stevemac

http://www.dubsport.com

Not sure what the "Load reduction Relay" is for tho.. :lol:

Are you sure they're not the green ones? Mine's got the standard Green's in and they're starting to look very blue after 225K miles! :? Ian - I think I'd look blue after 225k.. :lol:

Relay location on fuse/relay panel 1 - A/C relay 2 - Rear window wiper relay 3 - Digifant control unit 4 - Load reduction relay 5 - Low coolant level 6 - Emergency flasher relay 7 - Open 8 - Intermittent wiper relay 9 - Seat belt warning system 10 - Fog light relay 11 - Horn relay 12 - Fuel pump relay Separate relays above fuse/relay panel 13 - ABS hydraulic pump relay 14 - ABS relay 15 - Radiator fan after run relay 16 - Fuel pump after run control unit 17 - Heated seat relay, driver 18 - Heated seat relay, passenger 19 - Open 20 - Open 21 - ABS hydraulic pump fuse, power window fuse 22 - ABS valves fuse 23 - Open 24 - Open HTH Copied from Bentley manual

In layman's terms :- "pass" filters are a bit like electronic walls. High pass lets the high frequency sinals through but stops the low frequency signals. High pass filters are used when fitting tweeters, etc. Low pass lets the low frequency signals through but stops the high frequency signals. Low pass filters are used when fitting Subs. If you're fitting full range speakers (2 way/3 way etc) then use no filter at all - these speakers are designed to use a full range (unfiltered) signal.

There's definitely something wrong with the car. 1st - check your charger J*%#$sport made a real pigs ar5e of my car when it was there. How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended If that's okay then check the DIY section of http://www.snstuning.com this has a few more ideas

I really dont think we want to go there!!!!!! lol :wink: You getting some new carpet slippers for christmas then Scott.. :lol: :lol: Seriously - the MFA on my G60 is fairly accurate. I usually average 27-28 mpg. That includes some motorway driving & a bit of thrashing here & there. No point having power if you ain't gonna use it !! BTW - thats with R1 charger (ported & flowed), 68mm pulley, re-chip, full induction kit, CAT bypass, etc, etc. Std VR6 faster ? mmm not sure on that one.. 8) :lol: :lol:

"Magnex- A British made system and in our opinion the best of the all stainless systems." Direct quote from the Tim Stiles Racing (TSR) website.. :wink:

dg - welcome to the forum. Do you have full addresses & phone numbers, etc ??

Could be - I'm not sure. Try "German, Swedish & French" or "Euro Car Parts" first.

With a bit of luck you'll just find a rotten old wire that just needs replacing. Sorry I can't be any more helpful. Most of the original VW documentation that I have relates to G60's only - no difflocks or traction control !!

Output at printer VAG 1551 Possible cause of malfunction Correction 00279 1223 Differential Lock Valve 1 -N125 Faulty wiring, wiring connection or valve coil. Remedy - Test wiring, wiring connections and valve coil: That's all it says !!

I'll have a look - back in a mo !!

Darren - my G60's gonna have to come & meet you sometime in the spring... :wink:

Air flow sensor - sends a signal to the ECU

There is an "ambient" air temp sensor in the engine bay. This sensor can cause the main cooling fan to operate for upto 20 minutes after the engine is switched off. If the above is not a typing error then this sensor is likely to be faulty.

Try http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=5631 BTW - texyting welcome to the forum

Try doing a search on the ross tech website http://www.ross-tech.com/ They market the VAG-COM diagnostic equipment

Yeah - I learned that lesson the hard way. Old mk2 Escort when I was 17. Took the leads off - couldn't remember where to put each one back. Fortunately one of my neighbours also had a similar car so I just copied his setup to finally get it running again.. :lol:

G60 leads just "pull off".. :lol:

Maybe a lesson for us all Tony

I would use original VAG bearings. I've gone through 2 sets of GSF rear bearings in 7 months !! (I doubt their fronts would be any better)

Got some Brembo drilled f.discs on mine. Don't really make any difference at all to the brake efficiency. Seem to wear thin very quickly too. I've had mine on for 6 months (7k) and they're starting to wear quite badly !!

Think my Magnex is the same as standard - definitely same bore as the CAT anyway. mine occasionally knocks against the rear shocker lower mounting bolt but that's because of the low ride height.

With all due respect, it will be very easy for opinions to be offered etc, on-line. However brakes are a very important safety feature of a car & I would advise you to have the car checked out & road tested by a suitably qualified person. Squeaking when the brakes are not applied could well be a faulty/loose wheel bearing. The answers to your questions are 1. Depends how bad the damage is & how worn the disks are. 2. I have always skimmed disks as pairs.