stevemac

You did very well to solder the thermal fuse in place - the heat from the soldering iron usually trips the new fuse.

stevemac doesn't it reset itself after 2 hours? or am i thinking of my golf? Yes - you're right, it resets itself after 2 hours.. :thumbleft: Can't remember why I thought it was only 1 hour - ohh well

VW oil usage recommendation is 1 litre per 1000km (600 miles) before they would take the view that you have a problem. Most 16v engines are designed to use a certain amount of oil & topping up between services is common. I would speak to TSR and see if this may also be a charachteristic of their 2L conversions. I have to say, I'm surprised that the valve guides weren't replaced when the head was done.

20Nm (15 ft lb) According to Bently manual.

So far as I'm aware the battery is only used to start the engine. Once running the power supply should then supplied by the alternator. In addition to the above, I would be checking either the voltage regulator (mounted to back of alternator) or the alternator itself. With your engine running at idle speed, the alternator is not supplying enough power (for whatever reason). Your battery will be making up the shortfall - hence the warning light coming on. As the engine revs increase, your alternator begins to supply more power & the battery is no longer needed - hence the light going out when you press the throttle. Does your battery get "warm to touch" whilst the light is on, with the engine running ?

Welcome aboard m8 - if you fancy selling the Skyline, give me a shout.. :wink:

Back light's fallen out too.... :lol:

and that also has to be the most irresponsible thing you could ever do :roll: Very good chance of getting done too - the police can tell if the car has insurance just by scanning the numberplate !!

What a bargain - well done mate

jedi-knight83 - I would try hosing the sunroof & both doors. See if any of them are leaking. Could be a broken/blocked sunroof drain pipe or doorseal.

Approx 85+ mph according to VW

Around 40% on Kenwood & Sony - not sure on other makes but it will be fairly similar.

Tattie_G60 - you should have had a better look at my setup while we were at Donnington Park. Sony X-plod single CD + 2 x Sound Lab amps, MDF boot floor & parcel shelf, 12 speakers.............. Alpine have a good sound - so long as you can cope with the facia. Have to agree with you on the Nakamichi Brian - top stuff

Ian - position 1 resets itself after an hour - it's position 2 that keeps it's info.. :wink:

Maybe this spoiler thing is VR6 only ?? Hasn't dropped below freezing while I've been out yet - not sure wether my G60 spoiler works or not.

Can't beat modern technology James - how come you have a haidryer ?.. :lol:

Ess Three & Chris VR6nos Please feel free to continue your "difference of opinion" via PM/email. Recent posts are not really helping to answer the original question.

So far as I'm aware they use 2 chargers - 1 for each bank of cylinders

Depends which Kompressor you get - the later ones are fitted to the Merc 3.2 V6 engines (amongst others) so I would imagine that boost levels wouldn't be a problem. I can't remember wether the cure for the early problems was to re-design the centrifugal clutch or to remove it altogether. This clutch was a really good idea - when the revs were low the charger would hardly spin at all thus giving better fuel economy. When the revs started to increase then the centrifugal clutch in the pulley would start to bite - giving progressively more boost as the revs increased further.

I'll see if I can find out for you

Early Kompressors (as fitted to early SLK230's & C230's) used to suffer from "clutch" damage. They had a kind of clutch fitted to the pulley on the front - bearings were very unreliable. Later Kompressors tend not to suffer from this problem & so far as I'm aware are very good & reliable units. Certainly won't suffer from the same seal/bearing recon's needed for the G-ladder. Steve - ex-Mercedes employee

This maybe one of the points where VR6's & G60's differ. On the G60, it is possible to gain the advanced timing by resetting the distributor position. Then when using "lesser" fuels the ECU can retard the timing - kind of like the best of both worlds.. :lol:

Not exactly true - It states that 95ron is the minimum - page 65 of the manual states that 98ron can be used. Fuel flap sticker states that 98ron is preferable to 95ron. With the timing duly adjusted, I can confirm that my car runs far better on higher octane fuel.

:lol: :lol:

If people don't already know you Roddy - how will they be able to recognise you ?? R u gonna post a mugshot :lol: