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stevemac

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Everything posted by stevemac

  1. Depends how far you want to go with the mods. First thing to do is to make sure that the car is running properly & everything works as it should - including supercharger i.e.does it need reconditioning ?? Next thing I'd do is to fit a front mounted intercooler + smaller pulley & belt. A lot of people just fit a smaller pulley & chip but if your going to do any other mods as well then do the chip last.
  2. Both my black G60 and BarneyVR6's VR6 were parked behind the grandstand. The "flying bedstead" looked a bit funny....... :lol: :lol: :lol: Unfortunately, I had to go just after lunch and didn't get chance to see the jet engined dragster in action.. :(
  3. Good looking car Sandy. What ET rating are the wheels ??
  4. Can't remember exactly which injection system the 1.8 16v uses but from memory I think it's Bosch K-jetronic semi-mechanical injection ?? Faulty hall sender would not necessarily cause the car not to spark but it may cause it to spark out of time with the pistons. You said there was a little oil in the distributor ?? Maybe this oil is causing the hall sender to short circuit ?? If so, you'll be better off changing the whole distributor or at least the seal ring around the shaft which fits into the engine crankcase. To have oil inside the distributor is not a good sign at all. Make sure to mark both the position of the distributor & rotor arm before removing it from the car. When the engine cuts out & won't start, have you removed any of the spark plugs to see if they're sparking okay ?? Difficult to diagnose without seeing the car but from what you've said I'm fairly certain that the origin of your problem is a leaky seal ring which fits into the base of the distributor around where the shaft fits into it. The small amount of oil leaking past this seal could be starting to cause electrical faults inside the distributor. Just be aware that this type of injection system does sometimes suffer from fuel starvation problems as other people have already suggested. I would change the main fuel filter every 2 years and given the age of the car I would also replace the fuel pump which fits inside the tank - both are easy & fairly inexpensive jobs to do. I would change these 2 parts & see if there's any improvement before attacking your distributor.
  5. Correct spelling is "hall sender". This is the sensor which tells the ECU when cylinder number 1 reaches TDC (top dead centre).
  6. Fairly easy to do. Just remove any pad retaining clips & pins from the calipers & the pads should just slide out. Loosen the brakefluid reservoir cap (don't remove it completely) and lever the caliper pistons back into the calipers a bit. Roughen the pad linings a bit with emery cloth. Spread plenty of coppergrease onto the back of the pads and re-fit everything back together. Tighten the reservoir cap & pump the brake pedal a few times to push the pistons back into position. You won't need to bleed the system as no air will have entered it. The pads will take a few miles to bed in properly.
  7. Just goes to prove what a useless waste of space the standard coolers are... :lol: :lol: 2 (yes, that's 2) Merc C-Class coolers going on the front of mine very soon !!
  8. stevemac

    16v vs. G60

    Definitely 0-60 fast & not top speed - this guy was trying to sell his car !! It also had a fairly well modified engine. Beetlebug_2001 is quite correct though - the G60 gear ratios do limit it's launchability from 1st gear, although I've heard it's possible to launch a tuned G60 from 2nd instead.. :wink: 0-60 times do not have much relevence in the real world. I'm far more interested in how quickly I can overtake someone e.g how quickly it will accelerate from 50-100mph.
  9. stevemac

    16v vs. G60

    Corrado Club of Great Brittain website should be back up & running fairly soon - performance figures for all of the UK spec cars will be on there.
  10. stevemac

    16v vs. G60

    G60's are a fair bit quicker than either the 1.8 or 2.0 16v. Far more tunable, higher BHP, far more torque :lol: and much better power at low revs... 8) A tuned G60 will have more power & (arguably) better handling than a standard VR6. On the downside, they're a fair bit more expensive to run than either of the 16v cars.. :( Many of the G60 performance figures that you will find on the internet are for American spec cars - slower than the European versions.
  11. Reg no "rings a bell" but I can't remember who owns the car.
  12. If heavy braking doesn't sort them out, you'll need to take them out of the caliper. Give the pad linings a quick rub with some fairly rough emery cloth, coat the back of the pads with copper grease & re-fit them onto the car. Allow a few miles to (cough) "bed" them back in.
  13. My G60 had done 79k when I bought it and the charger was on "it's last legs". It had already sucked a couple of seals through and spat them out the other side... :(
  14. stevemac

    MOT work

    Although it is possible to use the old ones, wishbone bolts should always be renewed when the wishbones are replaced. For the minimal extra cost, it's an item which I automatically replace - regardless of the condition of the original bolts. It's called "good customer service" - unhappy custmers can give a garage a bad reputation. No idea on the starter - I've never changed one on a VR6.
  15. stevemac

    IS THERE HOPE?

    I had a "race" with a BMW 328i (approx 18 months old) on a dual carriageway near Leeds around a month ago, private road of course.. :lol: . Fairly evenly matched on the straight but once we hit a few bends (slowed to approx 120mph) his car was all over the road and I steamed on past.. :rambo: Think he must have "filled his trousers" cos he nearly hit the kerb a couple of times.
  16. stevemac

    IS THERE HOPE?

    Only repair costs incurred have been a supercharger rebuild, which I was aware of when I bought the car, and brake disks & pads all round. I've changed the suspension although the original stuff would have lasted a while longer. What you will have to be aware of is that you will be buying what is essentially an "old" car and you must always be aware that some parts will need replacing. You'll need to make sure that if you buy a G60 that the charger has been serviced - with certificate or invoice to prove it. Make sure there are no oil leaks - could be expensive depending on where the oil is leaking from. It's usually better to spend slightly more money buying a well looked after car than a cheap "bargain" which needs a pile of cash spending on it.
  17. stevemac

    IS THERE HOPE?

    Spent nearly £4000 on my G60 since buying it in April this year. Mostly on mods, wheels/tyres, alarm & stereo equipment. In addition to that, I spend around £150 per month on fuel and the same again on insurance. The enjoyment, for me, is having a very individual car which looks good, handles well & has plenty of power.
  18. stevemac

    Induction Kit

    For what it's worth : Intake (into the air filter) air temperature is much more critical on normally aspirated cars than on supercharged/turbocharged cars. With all "forced induction" cars, the intake air is heated to a ridiculous temperature by the turbo/supercharger as it compresses the air. The important factor is the temperature when the air reaches the engine. This is where "forced induction" cars get a second chance - intercooler. The standard G60 intercooler is not very efficient at cooling the air. Cone induction kits are great for improving airflow into the charger and give a nice "roar". I have a Jabba kit on mine and so far as I'm aware it's made by Jetex. If you want to improve power on a supercharged car then spend your money on a decent sized front mounted intercooler.
  19. Have you timing checked (as per previous post). If your cambelt has been replaced, the lower cambelt plastic cover may be damaged or not re-attached correctly. This will rattle against the waterpump and/or tensioner pulley. Damaged knock sensor (mounted to front of engine and has thick black cable coming from it) will cause your engine to "pink" and loose power. Maybe just a coincidence but 2500rpm is the engine speed used when setting the timing. When was your supercharger last serviced/reconditioned ?? I would have your timing checked/corrected and see if the problem persists.
  20. matt buz - welcome to the forum, good to see another member of the Leeds possee on here
  21. Looks like he might be quite good at map reading.............. :lol:
  22. Can't risk it - I've already got 9 points...... :(
  23. I thought some ebay geezer had bought all the stock ???
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