stevemac

Possible but the power picks-up again at higher revs

You have "Adobe Acrobat" reader Daz ? If not - you'll need to install this first - http://www.adobe.co.uk/products/acrobat/readstep2.html

There are no reputable VW specialists in West Yorkshire - beleive me, I looked very hard to find one. Closest decent specialist to you is Dubsport on the edge of Manchester. Failing that - my mate Mick is now the Aftersales Manager at JCT600 in Wakefield - just tell him you know me & he'll look after your car. I still stick with my above suspicion - rotor has definitely been levered off at some point in the past. I suspect not very long ago - possibly at the garage in Bradford.

AFAIK - VERY similar problem was discussed on here a couple of years ago. From memory, weak hall sender was the culprit. Contact g-man on here & he may be able to confirm.

Watched a video last night, of the Top Gear show that previewed the Corrado back in 1988. Tiff Needell was "quite excited" driving a prototype G60 around an airfield. BTW - petrol was 36p per litre . :shock:

Mine had similar symptoms a coupe of years ago. Did Jabba check that ALL of the other sensors were working properly before they mapped it ? If not (it's very possible they didn't) - it could be that one of your sensors is knackered. Just out of interest - what spark plugs are fitted ?

Looks like the hall sender casing that's dented. Possibly somebody's levered an old rotor arm off with a screwdriver & bent that casing in the process. Glad you got it sorted J . :wink:

No worries J - you'll have to let us know what the problem was, once you get it fixed.

Could have been me - on my way to work. Did it look like my piccy below ?

If the revs drop too low while idling - this can cause the alternator output voltage to drop. Output voltage will come back to the correct level & stabilise as soon as the revs reach the correct idle speed or above. Faulty hall sender (amongst many other things) could be the cause. Faulty hall sender will cause running problems right accross the whole rev range. To diagnose the hall sender as the problem without physically checking the car, is at best, an educated guess. Not sure where your rev counter will take it's signal from - could be the hall sender, if so, it could be a faulty hall sender or the wiring to/from it. This wouldn't necessarily cause your other electrical problems though.

Can't see how a faulty hall sender could affect the rest of the electrical system ?

Not much fun if you crash into another Smart though .

redcorrado, The part that seizes on the rear calipers isn't the piston, it's the handbrake lever/mechanism. I have never known anybody successfully repair one of these. Best to "bite the bullet" & replace both rear calipers. As stated earlier, when one caliper seizes, the other follows shortly afterwards.

Nicely written but IMO - assembling & fitting a "dry" joint is just asking for trouble. This may seriously reduce the lifespan of the new joint & could invalidate any warranty. Much safer & better to completely strip the joint, grease it properly & re-assemble before fitting it to the driveshaft.

g60griff, Best get some advice from somebody who has already done the conversion. All of the above are possible pitfalls. So far as I can see, your main potential problem will be the length of the driveshafts. VR's have a wider front track & so far as I know they also have longer driveshafts.

Porsche 911 3.3 turbo - shell, interior, electrics, engine, running gear, etc .. :lol:

I doubt a standard clutch would last too long in there. As you are limited as to the diameter that you can use, only option is to fit a "sports" clutch. Some are good, some are not. Ideally, a paddle clutch would be good but you will loose much of the clutch "feel". In my experience, these clutches tend to "grab" at the biting point & can be difficult to change gears smoothly. These clutches also tend to be rather expensive.

Does the handbrake work okay - on hills, etc ?

Red Corrado called in to GSF (Birmingham) on Friday - couldn't see which model it was from my office window. :morning:

Well spotted - thread title corrected

Black, deep dish alloys . :notworthy:

There's 2 seals in the distributor - one to seal the whole thing into the crankcase & one to seal the rotor drive shaft, inside the distributor. If you have oil inside the distributor, I suspect it may be knackered.

Don't use any Merc cooler that was intended for a car. They have plastic header tanks & they are all very prone to leaking. Mercedes have had to replace stacks of these on warranty. Sprinter or the new style Vito van (2003>) coolers are much better quality.

Vehicle body repair shops are far more likely to have this equipment. They need it to sucessfully repair accident damage.

Ambient air temp sensor - causes the rad cooling fan to overrun, after the engine has been switched off (for upto 20 mins).