stevemac

Did you remove the joints to fit the CV boots ? If so, it's the same proceedure - just make sure you use large amounts of grease & work it well into the new joints before fitting them. So far as I'm aware, making it 5 stud will involve changing the whole driveshaft ?

2 seals in the dizzy - the external one is an easy fix (as explained above). AFAIK - the internal one means a new dizzy.

Pass rear caliper has definitely seized. New caliper, rear discs, rear pads, rear wheel bearings & a can of brakefluid will be your minimum shopping list. My advice would be to replace both calipers - the other side is very likely to have also started to seize.

godskitchen, Each MOT tester is "licenced" to carry out MOT tests, as he/she interprets the guidelines. Contrary to popular opinion, an MOT certificate is NOT a guarantee of a car's roadworthiness. If there is any doubt as to the condition of components such as brakepipes, I would have them changed without question. As the condition of a car is a matter of each tester's opinion - you will not be able to claim your test fee back. Baz2004, Corroded brakepipes are a very common MOT failure on older cars. In an extreme case, the pipe/pipes could fail & cause the car to loose braking alltogether (with obvious consequences).

"Banging" is usually caused by worn suspension components. Replacing the front wishbones may improve the ride but they won't necessarily be the cause of your problem. Essentialy, if everything at the front end is tight, all suspension / steering bushes, bearings & joints are in good condition, banging won't occur. You just need to find the offending component & replace it. Last year, I replaced the whole front suspension, joints, wishbones, shockers, bearings, etc. Now the only banging I get is when the front suspension hits the bumpstops !

Spoiler wipers are more expensive than the normal ones. To keep the price of the kits down, it's deemed that only the drivers side of the car needs a spoiler.

I hate electrical problems m8. Logically, it appears that your problem is definitley electrical. Personally, I would bite the bullet & take it to an autoelectrician. I suspect that you either have a bad earth somewhere, damaged wiring or have spliced into the wrong circuit while fitting some kind of accessory. I'm no expert when it comes to electrics though . :oops:

:rofl:

Sorry J, for some reason I thought your's was a G60 . :oops: Maybe I should pay more attention . :morning: & learn to read. :lol:

What's wrong with Bush stereos . :lol:

Struan - if you haven't lost any money, what's the problem ?

Speak to citizens advice & ebay too. Ebay will & do ban people who operate like this. If you want your money back - go & see the guy (along with a couple of mates), he may be "persuaded" to hand the cash back.

Vehicles like that should be denied "type approval" & not sold in the UK

MillSpeed, Not sure exactly but if your alternator is putting out less than 14v, it's likely to be quite worn. ECU senses "low" voltage & switches to emergency mode. On a G60, this involves dumping fuel into the engine causing it to run rather badly. JBOB - as the clocks are electronic, faulty ones can sometimes cause the needles to "shiver".

keithmac, closed loop as activated by the idle pin-switch on the throttle body ?

c/o pot plugs into the air intake pipe - close to the throttle body. Remove it from the car & measure the resistance accross the 2 outer terminals. Turn the adjusting screw until it reads approx 760ohms. This will lean the mixture & may not be safe to drive any distance as too lean a mixture could melt one of your pistons! Should be okay for a trip to the MOT station & back though. When you're finished, re-adjust the c/o pot back to where it was - approx 500 ohms. BTW - may be worth checking your engine timing too - if this is out of adjustment, it may be why you previously failed the emissions test.

Try winding your c/o pot out to 760ohms like I did - just don't drive the car very hard until you richen the mixture again

Regulator's at the back of the alternator but I doubt it will be faulty if you're getting 14.2v output at idle. I have a spare set of G60 clocks you can try, if you like ?

RW1, I would never dispute your knowlege Chris . :thumbleft: I do know of at least one of these late registered cars (J) though. I can only assume that these later registrations are a reflection on the problems that VW had selling these cars at (what was at the time) a rather expensive price.

Check your alternator output at idle - should be just over 14 volts. ECU doesn't like low voltages & worn alternator could be your problem.

Have you been to the Land Rover website ? Failing that - get in touch with your local colleges - they'll be able to put you in touch with any local training facilities.

Most '91 registered G60's have the early front end. Mine's Feb '92 & has the later stuff.

Certainly are m8 . :wink: Gasket sets are either Reintz or Elring - both are OE suppliers

Those "scissor" jacks always look a bit flimsy to me - certainly wouldn't trust one to hold the weight of my car for any length of time.

lol - mine passed with 3.1% I set my c/o pot to 760 ohms to lean off the mixture - just for the MOT