stevemac

Did you have the front camber re-aligned after you altered the suspension ? As you can see from my piccy below, mine's quite low & doesn't catch or rub anywhere since I had the camber set-up properly.

No idea - not sure if we've ever ordered any for a G60 yet.

That'll be because we (GSF) don't stock them for the G60 - we only stock them for the VR6 & 16v models. Either you'll have bought the radiator elsewhere or your branch may have specially ordered one in for you, direct from the manufacturers.

NickVR6, It's the same valve as the MK2 Golf - fitted to the Corrado as a recall a few years ago. Mad-Axl - we (GSF) don't sell the valves. I wouldn't worry too much - my G60 has never had the valves fitted. It still has the original matrix & has covered 120000 miles with no problems.

If anybody needs the propper tool for the job, we (GSF) are selling them now.

I have a fully functional, spare (used) G60 CAT - according to popular opinion, it's the same as the 2.0-16v one. I removed it from my car when I fitted a CAT bypass pipe. £20 basket-case has first refusal, since she created this thread. I don't really want to post it anywhere as that's likely to damage it. Collection from Birmingham would be the order of the day.

Obviously not your week m8 . :morning:

Try unplugging the Lambda sensor wiring & running the car - does it still display the same faults ? Car will run a little rich but should be okay for testing purposes. Could be a faulty probe. Cutting fuel on decelleration & richening on full throttle will be controlled by the ECU from pin-switches on the throttle housing, not the lambda signal.

I agree - reliability is mainly down to how the car has been treat, with a bit of luck involved too. Tuning a car does not necessarily make it any more unreliable, although it does make you drive the car a little harder than you may have done before - otherwise there's no point tuning it in the first place. It's also worth remembering that any 10+ year old car will, to a certain extent, become less reliable due to it's age. Tuning an engine involves replacing some of the parts with new ones & may actually improve reliability

I agree with most of the coments already made - 1st car looks good, other two look awful.

Quite correct, I can never understand why anybody would want a standard G60. Sooo much more power can be had from that engine, I can't understand why VW didn't make it more powerful from the factory.

Never one to miss a joke, ehh Steve .. :lol: :lol:

I've altered the thread title slightly to attract more attention. I would imagine that the ISV is, at least in part, functioning correctly. If the engine idles properly when cold, I would expect the ISV to be okay. It sounds as though the ECU is receiving some kind of a signal from the lambda probe but for some reason is not adjusting either the timing or fuelling correctly. I would check the wiring from the ECU to lambda probe, ensuring all earths & other wiring connections are secure. I assume you've already tried a new blue temp sensor & tested the wiring to/from it ?

Looks like he completely missed his braking point & went into the corner way too fast. Just plain & simple driver error.

PG = G60 engine donor 1H = Golf Rallye engine donor

Nice one - looks good m8 . :D

Lean when at "wide open throttle" ? Noticed the problem with my duff throttle switch when the car was being re-mapped. Couldn't get enough fuel into the engine at "wide open throttle". Throttle switch wasn't sending a signal to the ECU to richen the mixture. Can't see your vids - bandwidth exceeded.

Recon box = better but more expensive.

If Jabba were the last charger rebuilders on the planet - I'd prefer to rebuild my own charger. I wouldn't go there even if they offered to pay me for the privelidge of rebuilding my charger.

If you want more power - best thing to do is sell it & get a G60. As has already been said - there's very little that can be done to a 1.8-16v, in order to increase power.

Sounds okay to me. The split pipe is likely to be your stalling problem. FYI - neat petrol or carb cleaner is the best thing to soak & clean the ISV with - brake cleaner evaporates too quickly.

Correct there Kev - Pagid make the VW OE pads & Brembo make the OE discs.

triggermyson, Essentially, it makes not much difference which oil you top-up with. So long as the grade is either 10w40 or 15w40. Contrary to popular opinion - mineral, semi synthetic & fully synthetic all mix together with no adverse effects. I would just top it up with 10w40 semi synthetic.

Moved to "Drivetrain" section

Err - what model do you have ?? Not sure about the VR but on 4 cyl models, there's no need to go anywhere near the sump when changing the front wishbones.