stevemac

I cleaned the carbon from my pistons last winter with hot water, washing-up liquid & a green plastic panscrubber - one of those oblong things.

Weak magnets in the hall sender will cause all sorts of running problems.

Yeah - I had a duff "full throttle" switch a while back. Also check that the throttle linkage is actually activating the switches.

Could try some Autoglym interior cleaner - my light grey carpets look like new since I cleaned them with it.

Even the plastic ones ?

Riley, None of the bost hoses or pipes should expand under pressure. Sounds like your's is worn.

Mamps, Maybe worth taking your cylinder head shopping - to ensure you get a compressor which fits properly. Successfully refitting the valves with a badly fitting spring compressor will be almost impossible.

All-out winter tyres, Vredestein are supposedly the best - marketed by Continental tyres. Reputedly they offer excellent mud & snow grip.

Read that as "remove thermostat"

Front mount is the most prone to wear. Engine will rock backwards slightly as rev's increase - rev engine & check for excess movement.

I'd be interested to know how/where the subframe's twisted. Has the car been in an accident at some point ?

It's a thick rubber vacuum hose, reinforced with fabric. Don't use the non-reinforced type - this will distort under vacuum pressure. More or less the same length will do, exact length isn't critical but make sure it's not so short as to get creased. Hose is usually sold by the meter.

Vacuum hose between inlet manifold & fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Any leaks here are a major problem & pipe should be renewed immediately. In an extreme situation, leaks here could cause the engine to run lean & melt one of your pistons !

I'm using the same cam. So far as I'm aware it's advanced approx 10 degrees & runs very nicely :shock: Although it's called a 270 degree cam, it's actually only about 264 degrees - check the Piper website for specs. They have the cam listed for the Golf G60 - same cam as Corrado. Ignition timing remains the same at 6 degrees advance (+/- 1 degree) Daz at G-werks set it up for me - he'll know the amount of camshaft advance that I'm running.

The result would be that the inlet manifold would suck air in through the leaking pipe. Not exactly sure what effect this would have but I doubt it would be advantageous.

:thumbleft:

cubed, Take your car back to the garage & demand that they rectify any damage that they have caused. They shouldn't have touched the coilover height adjusting rings at all, in order to correct a camber problem.

Also see :- http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbible ... bible.html

I always thought that the digital ones only had 1 opportunity to advance the mileage - i.e. when it was installed. So far as I'm aware, after this point, no adjustment can be made.

Ronan, 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Refer to the above guide 8. MFA will return back to it's normal mode once the engine is switched off markmcie - usually spliced into the vac pipe between the inlet manifold & the fuel pressure regulator (on the driver's side of the inlet manifold).

As a guide - mine are 7.5x17 rims with 205/40WR17 tyres. Used to rub like fcuk until I had the camber set-up properly. I've heard many people say that there's little or no front camber adjustment on Corrado's - complete rubbish, there's at least 5 degrees worth of adjustment on mine!

No worries m8 - all info was taken from http://www.snstuning.com - some good stuff on there, in the DIY section.

Bit more MFA info :- For G60's the extra MFA functions are: MFA switch, position 1: 1: Engine map code. 2: Country code. 3: Speedo drive ratio. 4: Upper RPM limiter. 5: Lower RPM limiter. 6: Deceleration fuel shutof pressure. 7: Segment test. MFA switch, position2: 1: Test sum of programmed bytes 2: Intake manifold vacuum/pressure. (boost check) 3: Engine RPM. 4: Momentary fuel consumption. 5: Signal from speed sensor. 6: Oil temp. 7: Ambient temp.

How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended

MFA boost check is very inaccurate. Only way to get a true reading is to fit a boost gauge.