stevemac
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Everything posted by stevemac
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I stuck the levelling brackets for my MDF boot floor in with "No nails" .. :lol: Nice tidy install there slot - my amps & stuff are just screwed to the boot floor . :shock:
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Laser is the only option on mine - too low for the manual gauges
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willwoll100, you need "laser 4 wheel alignment" m8 . :wink: It's the camber that will need adjusting.
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stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
Yeah - I think shiny black would look great. Maybe the end of the summer before I get them fitted though - kind of running out of cash at the mo .. :( -
Nice one - CAT bypass is a good mod for G60's . :D
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coullstar, You're correct m8 - Sachs & Boge are exactly the same company. :wink: briggy, Go for the full kit - just fitting lowering springs onto your original struts is rarely a good idea.
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Roger Mellie says "B******S" & I'm afraid I have to agree with him.. :shock: When my G60 gets back on the road (April), it'll be pushing approx 230bhp, with a shedload more torque than any normally aspirated 2.0-16v. I'll be well impressed if I can get 0-60 in 6 seconds !!
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Lotta-lotta hassle had with VR6 topmounts onto 2.016v - Help
stevemac replied to scabbyscala's topic in Drivetrain
scabbyscala, Don't feel such a plonker - from memory, the bearing clamps onto the top of the shocker shaft & holds the spring seat in place. Give our sales dept a call tomorrow 0121 626 7970 & ask for Russ - so far as I know, we keep any parts that you'll need for this conversion in stock. If we don't, phone Mick at JCT600 in Wakefield 01924 291129. Mick is the Parts Supervisor there & also a good friend of mine. He will be able to sort your problem out. Mick sorted the parts out when I changed to VR top mounts. -
Not me m8 .. :shock:
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It does sound as though your problems are electrical though - I'd unplug the ECU & re-check all your engine earthing points. Once you get the car running you could try this too - How to test your boost levels - UK spec cars 1. Start Engine 2. Move the MFA selector to "2" 3. Press and hold the MFA end button (keep holding) 4. Stop engine 5. Start engine 6. Release the MFA end button. 7. Press the MFA End button one time. You should now see 450-800 readings fluctuating with idle. Anything higher than 800 is not right (vacuum leak). Much less than 450 is probably too much timing advance. Go run your car!!! 3rd and 4th gear to REDLINE. Carefully note the highest #'s you've got. A pullied charger should not make less than 11.6psi, and even so, thats weak. A Stock charger should make ~~11psi in perfect shape! EURO Hg(#'s of boost/vacuum) Comments 200 -23.7 400 -17.8 600 -11.9 800 -5.9 1000 0 (Atmosphere- ala no boost, charger is bypassed) 1200 2.9 psi (Your charger is dead or big boost leak) 1400 5.8 psi (Your charger is about dead or big boost leak) 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) 2000 14.5 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on stock charger) 2200 17.4 psi (Great for 68mm pulley on heavily ported charger, hold on to your ass fast!!) :rambo: 2000 and up folks need to be careful with fueling, as the programming maps end at about 2000 on the ecu :) Dynotuning, and air/fuel/egt gauge, and custom chip recommended Info courtesy of http://www.snstuning.com - plenty of other tips on their site too - go to the DIY section.. :wink:
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Logically speaking - you have spark, you have fuel - the only thing that can stop it from running is bad timing. Wether that be firing order, cambelt or distributor timing. Timing should be set to 6 degrees BTDC - there are 2 timing marks on the flywheel, 1 is TDC & the other is 6 degrees BTDC. Crankshaft spins clockwise so it should be easy to see which is which. Email me if you need the full proceedure for setting the timing (not so straightforward as you may think) - mailto:[email protected]
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stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
I quite like JBOB's wheels - a set of those should look good on mine (painted black) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16548 -
stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
New alloys are definitely on the cards. I've found some that I like & I'm gonna have them re-finished in black - to match the rest of the car .. :D -
Rear shocker top mounting bushes will have an effect too - they wear quite badly with age.
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GIXXERUK, I got what wrong ?
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I ain't getting involved in an argument here - just consider this - you make 2 journeys, one journey begins 1.5 hours after the other. Do you class both as a single journey ? I don't & I suspect neither would you. The MFA, however, would. My post above was to clarify Big-ted's original question, which I think I did.
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stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
Cheers Paul Just taking a bit of time as I'm doing all the work myself (tight-fisted Yorkshireman...lol) -
stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
I'll let you know once I get it back on the road. :wink: I'm hoping for maybe 220bhp -
stevemac's G60 8) (mapped & back on the road)
stevemac replied to stevemac's topic in Members Gallery
Parts replaced last year - ALL front suspension components Full poly suspension bush kit 4 wheel bearings 4 CV joints Drilled front discs Pagid fast road pads -
I suppose it's about time that I started a thread in here.......lol I've had the car for around 2 years now. I've been gradually working my way round all the things that needed doing & should be finished this summer. Model: G60 Colour: Brilliant Black Metallic Mileage: 116k Year: 1992 As it is a "late" G60, built in 1992, it has the later front end. Same wings, bonnet, grille, headlights, etc as the VR6. It also has the later version of the PG engine. Engine: JMR solid front mount Piper 270 degree cam Kent adjustable cam pulley (+/- 6 deg) Jabbasport "big valve" ported & flowed head Fully ported throttle body (g-werks) Large front mounted intercooler (Behr) - not yet fitted Polished aluminium custom made boost pipes - not yet fitted Jetex cone air filter & heatshield Stage 5 Supercharger (rebuilt by G-Werks) RSR charger outlet Boost return removed Carbon can removed Red top (hi-flow) injectors SNS re-chip Bosch W5DPO sparkplugs (1 stage colder than std) 68mm supercharger pulley CAT bypass pipe Magnex stainless steel exhaust Interior: Momo leather steering wheel Sony single CD Vibe component front speakers (140w) Vibe 6x9 shelf speakers (360w) Custom MDF parcel shelf 12" Infinity Kappa sub Soundlab 4x120w amp (shelf & components) Lanzar 400w amp (Sub) Oxygen free speaker cable Professional quality RCA leads Custom MDF boot floor Fully fitted fridge :lol: Exterior Custom made front grille RS2 front bumper (not yet fitted) Fox Evo 17" wheels De-locked door handles Boge Turbo gas shocks & lowering springs Still looking for side skirts. :? I'm planning to have the car back on the road in May - insurance is gonna be fun . :lol:
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You bragging Steve .. :lol:
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GIXXERUK, Try it & see .. Note the part about the "single journey" being resumed within 2 hours .. :shock:
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Last year I replaced both front wishbones, bottom ball joints, front shockers, top mounts, 4 wheel bearings, 4 CV joints, drivers track rod & a full set of poly bushes. Had the car laser aligned & it handles like a dream now .. :D
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No worries - pictures attached . :wink:
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Fix Or Repair Daily The old ones are still the best .. :lol: